Wheel Stud snapped

[tnt31]

Debated if this should be posted in this forum or the wheel and tire forum but decided on this one.

2012 Mitsubishi Galant ES

Ordered him a set of tires and wheels Monday from DTD and they arrived Thursday.

Issue is got up this morning to install them and although tried to be careful snapped two wheel studs. (Got to remember to talk to the guy who did the brake job on this vehicle as no way those lugs were at 80 lbs). Broke one each passenger front and rear. I can order Raybestos Studs from Rock Auto, get them locally from the parts stores, was thinking Napa specifically, or is this something you would suggest get from the dealer only?

 

[CT8]

Try the closest source.The dealer could possibly get you the perfect first time fit though.

 

[ArcticDriver]

I usually buy from wheel studs from NAPA.
Dorman products are good quality as well.

Take one of your lugnuts in with you to make sure that the threading is the same.

 

[Klutch9]

For something so inexpensive and simple, why not just get them from a local autoparts store?

 

[Black_Thunder]

dorman studs would be fine, local parts store should have them.

 

[Canadastang]

Also don't forget to pick up a handful of washers to slip over the new stud in order to use the lugnuts to press them in.

If you have a proper press for replacing the studs, disregard.

 

[Donald]

How we're you loosening the lug nuts? Impact or breaker bar. The impact will have much less chance or snapping something.

 

[Johnny2Bad]

If you're breaking studs, somewhere, sometime, they were abused. Exactly where and when is irrelevant, but try to think about who's done your tire / wheel work and adjust as required.

Sometimes studs break because the aftermarket wheel doesn't fit properly (engages fewer threads, for example) and stresses the assembly, some Boy-Racers use spacers to get a "look" which requires longer studs, often not fitted. But on an OE wheel and ordinary use, it's abuse of the stud torque spec by shop personnel or maybe the owner.

 

[Kira]

This is why I use anti-seize on lug hardware. Smooth and easy. The trick is to tell the dog's dirt meth heads at tire places that they're anti-seized so they use less torque.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: Kira
This is why I use anti-seize on lug hardware. Smooth and easy. The trick is to tell the dog's dirt meth heads at tire places that they're anti-seized so they use less torque.


I worked at a tire shop and never touched meth, so that's uncalled for.

It's not unreasonable to assume a car has been properly maintained as a starting point. My owners manual reads not to put stuff on the studs, FWIW.

 

[tnt31]

Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
If you're breaking studs, somewhere, sometime, they were abused. Exactly where and when is irrelevant, but try to think about who's done your tire / wheel work and adjust as required.

Sometimes studs break because the aftermarket wheel doesn't fit properly (engages fewer threads, for example) and stresses the assembly, some Boy-Racers use spacers to get a "look" which requires longer studs, often not fitted. But on an OE wheel and ordinary use, it's abuse of the stud torque spec by shop personnel or maybe the owner.


I had new rotors and brakes put on all the way around about 2 months ago so I think the shop over torqued them. The manual for this vehicle indicates 65 to 80 ft lbs for the torque. I think typically for steel wheels the recommended torque is higher. DTD invoice with the new wheels/tires said to torque to 80 lbs. Have been using this place for a few years and always very good work....I guess until now. I will discuss with the shop and do not expect it to be an issue again so will not bail for this one error. Just bought the car in March so have no idea prior to that of the history. I did notice a good bit of corrosion on the studs which I am sure did not help. I cleaned them real good with a wire brush. New lugs that came with the wheels went on smooth.

Will likely pick a couple up from NAPA based on the comments.