What weight oil would you run in a 2011 Ford F150 with 3.5 L gas eco-boost?

No need for a jacked up winter rating like the 15W-40. If it's to thin on below freezing cold starts it's for sure going to be to thin at 200F+ operating temps.
Not sure what you're getting at. What W viscosity rating is too thin for cold start-ups?
 
Not sure what you're getting at. What W viscosity rating is too thin for cold start-ups?

I was making the point that 15W-40 was only likely to be higher viscosity where you don't actually need it so you would gain nothing over 5W-40. If 5W-40 "was" to thin at subzero it would for sure be to thin at 200F because it's only going to get thinner. It's a hypothetical, not a statement that it's the actual case.

Edit: Changed to better articulate my meaning, hopefully.
 
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My point was if 5W-40 was to thin at 0F it would for sure be to thin at 200F. 15W-40 wouldn't gain you anything except issues in extreme cold
No oil is "too thin" at 0F. You can't really determine how an oil is going to perform at 200F by looking at the W rating.

The W rating has nothing to do with the KV100 or the HTHS viscosity. HTHS is the key parameter to look at for operating temperature protection. A 5W-40 and a 15W-40 are both going to have a pretty similar KV100 and HTHS, a much closer viscosity at 200F than at 0F due to the difference in the W rating.
 
No oil is "too thin" at 0F. You can't really determine how an oil is going to perform at 200F by looking at the W rating.

The W rating has nothing to do with the KV100 or the HTHS viscosity. HTHS is the key parameter to look at for operating temperature protection. A 5W-40 and a 15W-40 are both going to have a pretty similar KV100 and HTHS, a much closer viscosity at 200F than at 0F due to the difference in the W rating.

I thought that's what I said? If it was to thin at subzero it's only going to get worse. So 15W-40 gains you nothing over 5W-40.
 
My brothers F150 with the 3.5 L gas with 119K miles on it was showing check-your-wallet codes P0014 and P054A (both for exhaust timing over advanced bank 1.)

His mechanic looked at it and cleared the codes and they have not yet come back.

I have seen that owners of F150s have ran heavier oil (Ford specks 5W-20) in these engines to get longer life from the cam chain system.

He is doing an oil change today. I recomended Pennzoil platinum 5W-30 and a Fram Ultra XG10575.

He will be doing another oc before winter, so this will be out of it before then.

I saw that some are running as heavy as 15W-40 in these engines.

He has always ran 5W-20 in the past with 3K to 5K oc intervals. I know the damage that has been done is there to stay untill parts are replaced, and that it probably will not be long before the codes come back.

What are your thoughts on running the PP 5W-30? And what would you run in it in summer, and what in winter?

He tows a RV up to a campground in the spring, and leaves it there all summer, and moves it to and from storage to sites about a mile away to a camp site all summer, and brings it back to Rochester PA in the fall.

His mechanic says to run it untill it does not run right.

What are your thoughts about oil weight to run in this engine?

Thanks for any replies.
What the manual recommends
 
I was making the point that 15W-40 was only likely to be higher viscosity where you don't actually need it so you would gain nothing over 5W-40. If 5W-40 "was" to thin at subzero it would for sure be to thin at 200F because it's only going to get thinner. It's a hypothetical, not a statement that it's the actual case.

Edit: Changed to better articulate my meaning, hopefully.
I see you went back and made an edit to post #22 (quoted above). I think I know what you're trying to get across, but the part in bold is still basically wrong because as I said before you can not use the W rating to try and determine what the oil viscosity is going to be at 200F. That's why there is a separate W rating and a hot viscosity rating based on the KV100 viscosity (viscosity rating xW-yy format). No oil is "too thin" at 0F or subzero temperatures. When is the last time you heard someone say: "You better bump up that W rating because the oil is too thin at 0F" ?

You have to compare KV100 and HTHS (ideally HTHS if available) to determine the operating viscosities at 200F or above. You can't look at the W rating and determine that oil X if going to be "too thin" for operational temperatures of 200F+. That's what it seems you are saying.
I thought that's what I said? If it was to thin at subzero it's only going to get worse. So 15W-40 gains you nothing over 5W-40.
Need to look at KV100 and HTHS when looking at and comparing hot viscosity, and only compare the W rating for cold weather start-up viscosity. They are two different animals, and why SAE J300 treats them differently, and why there are xW-yy viscosity ratings.
 
I see you went back and made an edit to post #22 (quoted above). I think I know what you're trying to get across, but the part in bold is still basically wrong because as I said before you can not use the W rating to try and determine what the oil viscosity is going to be at 200F. That's why there is a separate W rating and a hot viscosity rating based on the KV100 viscosity (viscosity rating xW-yy format). No oil is "too thin" at 0F or subzero temperatures. When is the last time you heard someone say: "You better bump up that W rating because the oil is too thin at 0F" ?

You have to compare KV100 and HTHS (ideally HTHS if available) to determine the operating viscosities at 200F or above. You can't look at the W rating and determine that oil X if going to be "too thin" for operational temperatures of 200F+. That's what it seems you are saying.

Need to look at KV100 and HTHS when looking at and comparing hot viscosity, and only compare the W rating for cold weather start-up viscosity. They are two different animals, and why SAE J300 treats them differently, and why there are xW-yy viscosity ratings.

I obviously worded it poorly. I was trying to get across that 40 grade was 40 grade and the higher W number was likely gaining nothing but an undesirable high viscosity at extreme cold temps. If the 15W (Like EHC based Delvac 1300) was particularly high quality it's possible it could be less shear prone than some 0W-40 or 5W-40.
 
0W-40, and 5W-40, and 10W-40, will all crank the same in the morning in an engine that was sitting outside at 55F all night. But the oil with less spread is less prone to shearing.

So, if the engine will not see cold temperatures while it is in the sump, the higher first number is a better choice.
 
The Ford mechanic on YT talks about using slightly thicker oil than what's recommended. Like 10-30. and changing the oil at 5000-mile intervals.
 
The Ford mechanic on YT talks about using slightly thicker oil than what's recommended. Like 10-30. and changing the oil at 5000-mile intervals.

Problem is 10W-30 may very well be thinner unless you are talking about the base. M1 HM 10W-30 would be higher viscosity and so would the 5W-30 Euro Oils. Anything with an API ILSAC Starburst likely not, at least any significant amount.
 
Quaker State Euro 5W-40 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-40 - API SP, high-quality lubes. Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 Dexos 1 Gen 3 would also be a good choice.
 
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Castrol 0w40 euro in my 2016. same generation of engine as his 2011. Keep the oil changes around 5k miles as well to remove soot.
 
My brothers F150 with the 3.5 L gas with 119K miles on it was showing check-your-wallet codes P0014 and P054A (both for exhaust timing over advanced bank 1.)

His mechanic looked at it and cleared the codes and they have not yet come back.

I have seen that owners of F150s have ran heavier oil (Ford specks 5W-20) in these engines to get longer life from the cam chain system.

He is doing an oil change today. I recomended Pennzoil platinum 5W-30 and a Fram Ultra XG10575.

He will be doing another oc before winter, so this will be out of it before then.

I saw that some are running as heavy as 15W-40 in these engines.

He has always ran 5W-20 in the past with 3K to 5K oc intervals. I know the damage that has been done is there to stay untill parts are replaced, and that it probably will not be long before the codes come back.

What are your thoughts on running the PP 5W-30? And what would you run in it in summer, and what in winter?

He tows a RV up to a campground in the spring, and leaves it there all summer, and moves it to and from storage to sites about a mile away to a camp site all summer, and brings it back to Rochester PA in the fall.

His mechanic says to run it untill it does not run right.

What are your thoughts about oil weight to run in this engine?

Thanks for any replies.
I would run what is called for in OEM. And, I would not wait until computer tells me to do it. About 5 k miles is good rule of thumb, along with a good filter.
 
FWIW, the newer 3.5EB all spec 5w30 instead of the 5w20 of before.

I have a 3.5EB and a 5.0 Coyote, and I run PP 5w30 in both (the 2013 Coyote specs 5w20, but the 2018 EB specs 5w30).
 
I don't think oil matters in these turds. I put Phillips 66 10w -30 diesel oil in everything at work and we still had to do timing chains and runners in one of those. Imo if a hdeo can't protect the chain no oil can
 
I don't think oil matters in these turds. I put Phillips 66 10w -30 diesel oil in everything at work and we still had to do timing chains and runners in one of those. Imo if a hdeo can't protect the chain no oil can
Was 10W-30 used since new, and how many miles when the chains and runners went bad? Typical OCI?
 
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