What to do with my new abused volvo?

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Hey Guys. I inherited a RWD Volvo with questionable history. I'm not sure how to care for it. This is an S90 (newer type of 964) so it has a more modern 6 cylinder engine than many of the other bricks.

The PO ran it with no ignition in one cylinder for 10k to 20k miles. He was doing his own oil changes, hopefully once a year, with PHM and Fram PH7328. So there might have been fuel mixed up in the oil for the past three years. Before he started doing it himself he took the car to jiffy lube three times, once a year.

I found his last filter and about 1.5 gallons of old oil, cleaning this up I noticed there was some sludge in one of the bottles, this may have come out of the engine or it may not have.

Looking into the oil filler cap it's definitely not as clean as my similar vintage & slightly less mileage BMW 6 that has run extremely long drain intervals. But it does not look like a sludge monster: features such as bolt heads and casting numbers are still visible although there is not much shiny white or tan metal to see.

I found the ignition problem and will fix it tomorrow. I got 2 gallons of Rotella T5 blend and some Mann W917 filters. I was thinking to run this oil for a shorter drain interval to be determined by whatever we observe during the next few 100 or 1000 miles.

Maybe there is a better course to take. Maybe I should run cheaper oil for a few hundred miles with a different filter to see what happens? FL1A -- and it looks like the truck filter too -- will fit on this car. Or maybe I should take measures to clean it, like soak the oil pan in solvent overnight?

When I go work on the car tomorrow, I might bring my sawzall to open the fram filter up.
 
I would run a compression test on the cylinder that had the ignition problem. the cylinder would constantly washing the oil off and coulda ruined the rings and the cylinder.

what was the ignition prob?

I'd probably run a couple short OCI's, maybe with some MMO. then switch to PP or PU to help clean it.
 
This car has a transistor pack for three cylinders between the control box and the direct ignition coils. I switched the transistor modules and the OBD misfire fault moved to the complimentary cylinder. So, I'm pretty sure that one of these modules is bad, replacing it tomorrow.

We did kind of a [censored] job at doing a compression test, pulled 235 psi on the problem cylinder and 220 on the two around it. Then the battery started getting weak. After we buttoned it up I realized I forgot to have my partner open the throttle while operating the starter.

But, the car doesn't seem to be worse having changed the cylinder that doesn't fire. We will see how smooth it runs tomorrow.

I have put the heavy weight Rotella in the BMW when I knew I would only be driving it 1000-2000 miles a year. Because of all the extra diesel additive, should I save something like MMO for a cheap oil if I decide to run a really short drain interval?
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Dead miss or just a sometimes-misfire?


It was very clearly running on 5 cylinders all the time.
 
most volvos are great cars that last a long time.. if there is a timing belt change it.. 850's are interferrence engines that can last for a long long time
 
What year is this car? If there was a misfire code set, the ecu would have shut the injector for that cylinder off. You would likely have a melted cat if it did not.
 
It's a 98. We would think the same too but when we took possession of the car the exhaust smelled like fuel until we pulled the plug off the injector.

The MIL on this car flashes when a new fault is stored. When we moved the fault to the other cylinder, the misfire fault was "pending" and did not "store" until we went around the block and tried to run it hard.
 
I think you need a new compression guage!

I don't know how someone could drive that long with a dead hole. Hopefully the computer knew something was wrong and killed fuel to that hole.
 
It's a Harbor Freight Special. Even if it's not precise we were happy to see it made the needle move and it was "within 10%" of the readings on the other two. The cylinder is working somewhat, and we will see how much it shakes tomorrow after it's fixed.
 
Run your T5 for normal OCIs and it will clean up in time. Don't be in any hurry or waste time and $ to "clean up" the inside of the engine. It sounds like it will be running fine with a new module - even if one cylinder is a little low on compression - no big deal IMO. It's a 98 Volvo, unless it's the nicest one in the world, spending money on an engine rebuild is a complete waste. Just drive it and fix essential stuff.
 
On the bright side, I bet the fuel dilution from the non-firing cylinder helped keep the sludge at bay.
smile.gif
 
Are you SURE you're not Technologs? You created a new account so you wouldn't be yelled at for buying a horrible running Volvo. Other reasons:

- Funny username

- Has created multiple usernames in the past

- It's a Volvo

- Runs like [censored]

- Was talking about buying another beater
 
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
Are you SURE you're not Technologs? You created a new account so you wouldn't be yelled at for buying a horrible running Volvo. Other reasons:

- Funny username

- Has created multiple usernames in the past

- It's a Volvo

- Runs like [censored]

- Was talking about buying another beater

lol.gif


The only difference is this guy writes a lot more intelligently and seems to know what he's talking about.
smile.gif


But yeah, otherwise, the resemblance is uncanny.
 
I would recommend dumping nail polish remover in the gas tank and sucking a gallon of water through a vacuum line. If that doesn't work, perform a few "ITUs" while running on 5 cylinders.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
I would recommend dumping nail polish remover in the gas tank and sucking a gallon of water through a vacuum line. If that doesn't work, perform a few "ITUs" while running on 5 cylinders.


I might try that if the car were three times its age. But what's an ITU?

When I was a kid I got a set of the previous year's non-emissions carbs and put 'em on the 240Z. I hooked up fuel to manifold vacuum port.

It ran.
 
We fixed the ignition and it runs pretty well. Drained the oil and it did smell like fuel. It was not very dark and we did not detect any gels when transferring the oil for waste collection. Seemed to be a bit thin for 10W30 too.

I have a sludge monster toyota (stuck pcv before I got it), M1 5W30 has been in it for 1400 miles and is about the same color on a paper towel. But I know that's nothing for comparison because the same oil in the BMW is hard to see on the dipstick for much longer.

I did not really notice but my partner is sure that the new oil fill has the engine running quieter.

Originally Posted By: bigt61
Run your T5 for normal OCIs and it will clean up in time.


Since I did not see any jelly-sewage in the drained oil like there was in the oil I found in his house, we decided to fill with the T5 and see what happens. Also, I figured there was no point in cutting the filter open.

I don't know what we can really tell from dipstick samples other than how quickly it begins to "look dirty." The only basis I really have for comparison are the BMWs and a sludge monster toyota which are on opposite ends of the spectrum.

So, since PHM is regarded highly by some here, I'm wondering what the fuel contamination did to it and how this could have possibly increased wear on the engine. The only thing I know for sure about oil life is in my working vehicles, my fuel economy seems to get worse by about 5% when the oil is old. When that happens I can add a half quart of virgin oil and that brings most of it back.
 
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Is this a B6304S?


It might be B6304S2, I am new to Volvos so I don't know exactly.
 
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