The big killer of oil now is fuel dilution.
What vehicle? You want oils that are bit more stout than just API. Generally, look for oils with Porsche A40 approvals. Mobil1 0W40, Pennzoil Platinu Euro 5W40 etc.
If you are tracking that Type R (have a few buddies that do) run a 40 grade man. The 20 is fine for normal use but this is well beyond that.
B/c they add a level of complexity/failure point that isn't necessary some times. Hood venting may be all that is needed to increase cooling efficiency. Just something to consider before going to external coolers.
Agreed. I don’t like the idea of a 10psi pressure drop due to introducing an oil cooler in the mix.
There is a very high oil capacity for that motor too I believe. I think you would still be best serve changing the oil often. You start adding parts which is a hard thing not to do especially on a platform like that and you can throw almost all w20 out of the windows.
Line choice is critical and many systems are sold with AN8 which is too small, 10 is the way to go. I am going to eventually cut my hood and add some hood vents. BTW, some great testing for track rats here on my buddies page/YouTube:
I’ve got a Durango 3.6 right now for a rental. It’s got 33psi warm at idle and jumps to around 78psi at full throttle even in the 3-4k range. IMO and against known data, this seems HIGHLY excessive and is probably how they’re trying to make the engines survive with thin oils- MOFT is dependent on film thickness, and if load exceeds the MOFT at a given oil pressure, simply double the oil pressure and use hydraulic advantage to force the metal-to-metal contact apart.
Any normal-use engine sold today is fine with the recommended viscosity. When operating at or outside the limits of recommended normal operation, additional protection may be required.Seems like most synthetic oil are not as "real" as they used to be.
Aren't most real syn going back to Grp III or GTL stuff these days? That means drop the 350F advertisement to ~300F. And that's for the bearings or the cylinder head area which can get even much hotter than that and not the sump temp.
Conclusion:
Even with synthetic (real or not), when in doubt, use a thicker oil.
My poor Tundra wants 0W-20 but I am afraid of the viscosity police and may move to Mexico so I can use 40 or even 50.
How specifically didn't they perform?
The Ravenol was seriously out of grade, TBN essentially completely depleted. It would probably have been changed at 5k if I had sampled it then.
