What oil???
- Thread starter Johnny G
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All small engines can be different. As far as it being safe to use, I would say yes. But....my mower calls for SAE 30 and when I was using B&S mower oil, it never used a drop during an entire season. When I switched to Mobil 1 10w30, it consumed it. I switched to Mobil 1 15W-50 and it slowed, but didn't stop. Now I'm trying Lucas Full Synthetic 20W-50 to see if consumption will stop.
Sorry for the long story...but just wanted to let you know that you might expect some consumption and to check the level periodically. It's a great oil for high-temp air-cooled engines, but some engines like it a little TOO much.
Sorry for the long story...but just wanted to let you know that you might expect some consumption and to check the level periodically. It's a great oil for high-temp air-cooled engines, but some engines like it a little TOO much.
I used Mobil 1 15w50 in my Briggs, cause I have a glut of it to use up and it worked Great. I use it in all my small engine four strokes without a problem.I would go with the 15w50, over the 10w30, since it is air cooled, Iam guessing. It will handle the heat much better, Iam figuring this is the reason for a monograde oil spec. Really though the Briggs will be happy on any oil, they arent real fussy, so you may want to just run a conventional 30 wt and change it more often.
Originally Posted By: Johnny G
Hi
I have the Kaw 15hp V twin on my commercial mower. The engine says to use SAE 30 W. I like Mobil 1 but they do not have the Stight 30. Mobil 1 says i can use there 1030?? Do you think this will be OK??
thanks John
Order up a gallon of ACD SAE 30 and you'll be all set.
Hi
I have the Kaw 15hp V twin on my commercial mower. The engine says to use SAE 30 W. I like Mobil 1 but they do not have the Stight 30. Mobil 1 says i can use there 1030?? Do you think this will be OK??
thanks John
Order up a gallon of ACD SAE 30 and you'll be all set.
I talked to some guys who service all kinds of small engines and they recommended Mystik 30 weight oil. Of course if you ran an engine in cold weather (like a snowblower) something like 5W30 or 10W30 would be better.
In my lawnmower with a Honda engine 10W30 oil is recommended although you can also use 30 weight. I think next summer I will use 30 weight Mystik.
In my lawnmower with a Honda engine 10W30 oil is recommended although you can also use 30 weight. I think next summer I will use 30 weight Mystik.
Originally Posted By: Johnny G
I have the Kaw 15hp V twin on my commercial mower. The engine says to use SAE 30 W. I like Mobil 1 but they do not have the Stight 30
They spec straight weight oils for good reason.
Use Shell Rotella straight 30 wt. Commonly available at Walmart for $8.76 per gal, and elsewhere.
It's a heavy-duty diesel motor oil, perfect for the kind of intense operating conditions a lawn mower engine would see.
I have the Kaw 15hp V twin on my commercial mower. The engine says to use SAE 30 W. I like Mobil 1 but they do not have the Stight 30
They spec straight weight oils for good reason.
Use Shell Rotella straight 30 wt. Commonly available at Walmart for $8.76 per gal, and elsewhere.
It's a heavy-duty diesel motor oil, perfect for the kind of intense operating conditions a lawn mower engine would see.
You should be OK with 10w30, but as mentioned don't be surprised if oil consumption goes up a little in relation to straight 30W.
My B&S manual says use 30W in the summer, & can use a 10w30 in winter. I favor Max-Life in my mower engines for its cleaning ability and because it's a synthetic blend, and am running ML 10w30 in my 18.5hp B&S right now. I use it in winter to haul wood from the shed, and with the ML it runs smooth and makes no unusual engine noises when cranking in temps down into the teens.
When summer gets here I'll look for some straight 30W Max-Life, and if I can't find it I'll use Rotella 30W.
My B&S manual says use 30W in the summer, & can use a 10w30 in winter. I favor Max-Life in my mower engines for its cleaning ability and because it's a synthetic blend, and am running ML 10w30 in my 18.5hp B&S right now. I use it in winter to haul wood from the shed, and with the ML it runs smooth and makes no unusual engine noises when cranking in temps down into the teens.
When summer gets here I'll look for some straight 30W Max-Life, and if I can't find it I'll use Rotella 30W.
I kind of think of synthetic as "somewhat" akin to water- the viscosity pretty much remains the same from 33-211 degrees.
You should be fine with 10w30 OR 15W-50. I might lean toward the later during the heat of summer.
You should be fine with 10w30 OR 15W-50. I might lean toward the later during the heat of summer.
My Kawasaki V-twin powered JD tractor ran just fine on Mobil 1 10w30. However, I have since switched to Turbo Diesel Truck 5-40, just because of the more robust additive pack.
Chris
Chris
I use both SAE 30 Rotella and 15w40 Rotella in my small engines...with the reduction of good additives in gasoline-rated oils, the diesel oil protect better. I have actually ran around 50 hours on Rotella SAE30 in a 10hp Kohler, and it didn't even change colors.
With that said, my grandfather has been rebuilding lawnmowers since he retired in the mid 80s...he swears by 10w30 and 10w40, and he runs whatever he picks up at the fleamarkets and yardsales for a nickel a quart. He has always said it is proper OCIs that prolongs the life of these engines...
I will say I have a small compressor with a 5HP Honda that I run 5w30 Mobil 1 without a hint of problems...but it gets drained about every 10hr of use...because it needs to be drained to ship it from point to point. But it also runs at WOT during the run time.
With that said, my grandfather has been rebuilding lawnmowers since he retired in the mid 80s...he swears by 10w30 and 10w40, and he runs whatever he picks up at the fleamarkets and yardsales for a nickel a quart. He has always said it is proper OCIs that prolongs the life of these engines...
I will say I have a small compressor with a 5HP Honda that I run 5w30 Mobil 1 without a hint of problems...but it gets drained about every 10hr of use...because it needs to be drained to ship it from point to point. But it also runs at WOT during the run time.
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
I use both SAE 30 Rotella and 15w40 Rotella in my small engines...with the reduction of good additives in gasoline-rated oils, the diesel oil protect better. I have actually ran around 50 hours on Rotella SAE30 in a 10hp Kohler, and it didn't even change colors.
With that said, my grandfather has been rebuilding lawnmowers since he retired in the mid 80s...he swears by 10w30 and 10w40, and he runs whatever he picks up at the fleamarkets and yardsales for a nickel a quart. He has always said it is proper OCIs that prolongs the life of these engines...
With all due respect to your grandfather he's probably a little behind the times on this one.
There have been dramatic changes in motor oil formulations the last few years, and not all of them for the better.
Anyway, at least you're on the right track with the diesel oils so perhaps you can teach him something.
I use both SAE 30 Rotella and 15w40 Rotella in my small engines...with the reduction of good additives in gasoline-rated oils, the diesel oil protect better. I have actually ran around 50 hours on Rotella SAE30 in a 10hp Kohler, and it didn't even change colors.
With that said, my grandfather has been rebuilding lawnmowers since he retired in the mid 80s...he swears by 10w30 and 10w40, and he runs whatever he picks up at the fleamarkets and yardsales for a nickel a quart. He has always said it is proper OCIs that prolongs the life of these engines...
With all due respect to your grandfather he's probably a little behind the times on this one.
There have been dramatic changes in motor oil formulations the last few years, and not all of them for the better.
Anyway, at least you're on the right track with the diesel oils so perhaps you can teach him something.
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
I use both SAE 30 Rotella and 15w40 Rotella in my small engines...with the reduction of good additives in gasoline-rated oils, the diesel oil protect better. I have actually ran around 50 hours on Rotella SAE30 in a 10hp Kohler, and it didn't even change colors.
With that said, my grandfather has been rebuilding lawnmowers since he retired in the mid 80s...he swears by 10w30 and 10w40, and he runs whatever he picks up at the fleamarkets and yardsales for a nickel a quart. He has always said it is proper OCIs that prolongs the life of these engines...
With all due respect to your grandfather he's probably a little behind the times on this one.
There have been dramatic changes in motor oil formulations the last few years, and not all of them for the better.
Anyway, at least you're on the right track with the diesel oils so perhaps you can teach him something.
I doubt I'll be teaching him anything...he's 80, and set in his ways!
It works for him, and he rebuilds them to sell for extra cash...he's never had one come back, so he must be doing something right!
I'll stick with my C/S-rated oils for non-emissions engines...
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
I use both SAE 30 Rotella and 15w40 Rotella in my small engines...with the reduction of good additives in gasoline-rated oils, the diesel oil protect better. I have actually ran around 50 hours on Rotella SAE30 in a 10hp Kohler, and it didn't even change colors.
With that said, my grandfather has been rebuilding lawnmowers since he retired in the mid 80s...he swears by 10w30 and 10w40, and he runs whatever he picks up at the fleamarkets and yardsales for a nickel a quart. He has always said it is proper OCIs that prolongs the life of these engines...
With all due respect to your grandfather he's probably a little behind the times on this one.
There have been dramatic changes in motor oil formulations the last few years, and not all of them for the better.
Anyway, at least you're on the right track with the diesel oils so perhaps you can teach him something.
I doubt I'll be teaching him anything...he's 80, and set in his ways!
It works for him, and he rebuilds them to sell for extra cash...he's never had one come back, so he must be doing something right!
I'll stick with my C/S-rated oils for non-emissions engines...
FWIW, I had a quart of leftover Amsoil 0w30 and my 5.5 Tecumseh sno king L-head snow blower really likes it. Prime her three times, turn her to choke, and she starts on one pull every time. This in -5F temps.
My dad ran Mobil synthetic 10w30 for years in Briggs and Stratton and Tecumseh engines that required SAE30, and he never had a problem it it. Heck, they ran a little quieter.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
My dad ran Mobil synthetic 10w30 for years in Briggs and Stratton and Tecumseh engines that required SAE30, and he never had a problem it it. Heck, they ran a little quieter.
Mine is a brand new machine and I always had a surge in higher rpms. Not a miss, but a back and forth surge. When I replaced the factory fill oil and put in the 0w, there is no surge at any rpm level.
My dad ran Mobil synthetic 10w30 for years in Briggs and Stratton and Tecumseh engines that required SAE30, and he never had a problem it it. Heck, they ran a little quieter.
Mine is a brand new machine and I always had a surge in higher rpms. Not a miss, but a back and forth surge. When I replaced the factory fill oil and put in the 0w, there is no surge at any rpm level.
Originally Posted By: Saturn_Fan
Mine is a brand new machine and I always had a surge in higher rpms. Not a miss, but a back and forth surge. When I replaced the factory fill oil and put in the 0w, there is no surge at any rpm level.
I would wonder if the governor is oil pressure sensitive??? That sounds like the oil caused the governor to react differently, and in the case better.
Mine is a brand new machine and I always had a surge in higher rpms. Not a miss, but a back and forth surge. When I replaced the factory fill oil and put in the 0w, there is no surge at any rpm level.
I would wonder if the governor is oil pressure sensitive??? That sounds like the oil caused the governor to react differently, and in the case better.
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
Originally Posted By: Saturn_Fan
Mine is a brand new machine and I always had a surge in higher rpms. Not a miss, but a back and forth surge. When I replaced the factory fill oil and put in the 0w, there is no surge at any rpm level.
I would wonder if the governor is oil pressure sensitive??? That sounds like the oil caused the governor to react differently, and in the case better.
That definitely could be. It was a nice surprise as a had a quart of this stuff just lying around doing nothing. Now, I'll use it forever. This little engine should last a long time the way I maintain it anyway.
Originally Posted By: Saturn_Fan
Mine is a brand new machine and I always had a surge in higher rpms. Not a miss, but a back and forth surge. When I replaced the factory fill oil and put in the 0w, there is no surge at any rpm level.
I would wonder if the governor is oil pressure sensitive??? That sounds like the oil caused the governor to react differently, and in the case better.
That definitely could be. It was a nice surprise as a had a quart of this stuff just lying around doing nothing. Now, I'll use it forever. This little engine should last a long time the way I maintain it anyway.
My understanding is that the flathead Briggs and Stratton had no pressurized oiling, just splash lube. I think the governor would have to be centrifugal or electronic.
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