my dad owns a 5 year old John Deere LT155 riding lawn mower. it has a 15hp engine, and hes been using john deere conventional 10w30 in it. would it be beneficial to use something like mobil 1 instead of a conventional? if so, what synthetic would you recommend? regular syn, m1 t&s.. or what maybe even a hdeo? the mower is used in connecticut.. so is 10w30 a good weight as well?
synthetic vs dino in lawn tractor
- Thread starter sxg6
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use what you want.. i ..p...u....t (son hit the period key lol) GC 0w30 in my push mower and ran smoother. jsut try differnt syn and see which one it likes best. its kinda liek the same with car engines. some oils work better than others. just got to find the sweet spot.
I will prob amsoil in my JD 115 rinding mower. after I brake it in.
I will prob amsoil in my JD 115 rinding mower. after I brake it in.
fwiw.. i've used Mobil 1 in 10/30 and really like it in my 15hp briggs tractor. it may sound different after he changes it though. mine was definetly louder. this really does not hurt the engine or cause wear. the local ace rental only uses Pennzoil synthetic in all the rentals and say they have never had a engine failure or issue.
ex.. my neighbor has a 6hp techumseh craftsman push mower that would get hot and die after 30-40 min in hot weather. the local shop couldnt figure it out and sd that the motor was on its way out. he thought it was heat related so i gave him a bottle of 0/40 Mobil 1 from the autozone clearance last year and it never did that again and was very happy that he didnt have to replace it. after that i think it definetly helps in keeping the heat down.
i didnt change my oil in my cheapo briggs 3.5 push mower for almost 5years and it was changed from the oe to leftover Mobil 1 10w30 right away with little consumption and none added. it was barely down from the top line on the stick. i only changed it when i felt like it was done and black. it still runs darn good, with used 7k Mobil 1 5w30 out of my toyota truck.. used oil analysis have been good so why not? haha. the wheels are another story though. it's been beat and borrowed and looks pretty bad.
GC in yellow or green would be a good choice also. try whatever flavor you choose. those are all great.
ex.. my neighbor has a 6hp techumseh craftsman push mower that would get hot and die after 30-40 min in hot weather. the local shop couldnt figure it out and sd that the motor was on its way out. he thought it was heat related so i gave him a bottle of 0/40 Mobil 1 from the autozone clearance last year and it never did that again and was very happy that he didnt have to replace it. after that i think it definetly helps in keeping the heat down.
i didnt change my oil in my cheapo briggs 3.5 push mower for almost 5years and it was changed from the oe to leftover Mobil 1 10w30 right away with little consumption and none added. it was barely down from the top line on the stick. i only changed it when i felt like it was done and black. it still runs darn good, with used 7k Mobil 1 5w30 out of my toyota truck.. used oil analysis have been good so why not? haha. the wheels are another story though. it's been beat and borrowed and looks pretty bad.
GC in yellow or green would be a good choice also. try whatever flavor you choose. those are all great.
I use Supertech 5-30 Full Synthetic. Fairly cheap and air-cooled engines seem to like it.
B&S 5-30 Full Synthetic is approx $6 per qt. ST is 1/3 that.
B&S 5-30 Full Synthetic is approx $6 per qt. ST is 1/3 that.
I use Walmart tech2000 15W40 diesel oil (mineral based one) in my B&S lawnmower and I use Mobil 1 10W30 in my Honda pressure washer.
No issues whatsoever.
No issues whatsoever.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Unless it's used commercially or used in extremes of temp. I see no benefit in using a Full Synthetic in that application. Nice thing with small sumps is, for a few more bucks if it makes you feel good, run it!
G/luck
Joel
G/luck
Joel
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