What oil to keep the engine cooler?

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Originally Posted By: PurplePride
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
This should be good...
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Well, my vote is always for the most expensive oil.
And change it every 1500 miles.
Good to go!
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That will work.
 
If your vehicle is overheating and over operating temperatures of the manufacturers specifications, an oil change is not going to fix things.
 
Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
Apparently it's an issue with all the fuel returning to the gas tank when you shut the car off, because if it's hot outside, I have to prime it twice and it starts up perfectly.


Have you done a fuel pressure check? When did you last change your fuel filter?
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
What oil do you run now that gives you the "problems" when hot?

Does EVERY oil you've run cause the engine to be the same?

The problems you are seeing maybe NO oil is going to help with them if EVERYONE of the Spec-V motors have this "problem".

Bill


x10000000000
 
Originally Posted By: TurboJim
Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
Apparently it's an issue with all the fuel returning to the gas tank when you shut the car off, because if it's hot outside, I have to prime it twice and it starts up perfectly.


Have you done a fuel pressure check? When did you last change your fuel filter?


there is no fuel filter.. SpecV is not servisable in that aspect.
 
Not trying to correct the questions asked, but think the
approach of finding an oil that will "cool things off" is
a incorrect assumption. Finding an oil that will stand-up
to the heat better would be more in-order. If you want to
get rid of heat get an oil cooler or a bigger radiator/fan.
If you just want peace-of-mind go with a top-tier synthetic
....the more ester the better.
 
I know I'm repeating others on here, but:

Changing oil will NOT change temperatures appreciably. If you want lower engine temperatures, go with a cooler thermostat.

Also, this sounds more like an issue with your fuel system. Since the fuel pump is near/in the gas tank, how would engine temperature affect it?

According to some random forum on the internet, your car has a returnless fuel system. If the fuel is draining back, you might want to look there.
 
You can get spark knock from cold or hot conditions. Cold air is dense, and can cause spark knock from a denser mixture in the CC. Hot intake air in combination with hot ambient temperatures can cause spark knock as well, of course.

Oil for cooling? Thinner is cooler. It removes heat by better flow and has less of a barrier wall on parts. Also very importantly, less internal drag and friction which makes more heat.
How much? On the highway, figure from 215F down to 205F going from 20-50 to 10-40.

But if your oil temps are getting seriously hot, you made need to go up a grade with your engine oil for other reasons.
 
I ran this experiment on another car about 5 years ago. It ends up that in my car, a 10w30 oil has 3dF lower temps than a 10W-40 oil, and 10dF cooler than 15W-50 oil {all top rated synthetics}. The test conditions were race tracks in the midst of Texas heaat--no cooler than 103dF.

Based on this, if you need more than 3dF in cooling you need an oil cooler.

However, rereading this thread, indicates that you do not even have an oil temperature gauge! Bad move. With out both oil temperature gauges and pressure gauges, you simply don't have any idea when the engine is going to blow--to say the least of picking oils,.....

The very FIRST thing you need is an oil pressure and temperature gauge set. Then you need to use these gauges to determine if the oil you are using is up to snuff or not, and if the oil system need more cooling or not.

Depending on head design, some heads are substantially cooled by oil. These engines will produce more power on thinner oils running in the 230dF range than thicker oils running in the 280dF range. Thin oils and an oil cooler are good for HP because those parts that deal with the ambient air, are cooler.
 
Do you know what compression ration these engines run? Most new engines run a pretty high ratio, which would make it hard to start when hot. Engine's retarding timing too much when hot and or detonation would make it run slugish/lose power. Don't think it's a oil issue. Try better gas when it's hot out and see if it goes away. Premium that is.
 
Again Toyota TRD rec's a 10deg lower T-stat for racing and xtra power and less valve sticking on their hot running heads. I would look here. Also does your intake take in cool air from outside the engine bay? Is the intake manifold Al or polymer? All said, you cant stop power loss from high ambient temps, but you can prevent the intake from heating the charge even more.
 
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