what oil should i use for my application

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RED_V6

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so here we go first post on this forum,

anyways i have a 2002 nissan Frontier V6 4wd.

i have three different jobs(im 18)my opening job is about 12 miles to get there, my second job is my landscaping company so ill hull mulch rock etc. if i have to in my bed.generaly i do my towing with other trucks. then my third job is only 1 mile from my house.


on weekend ill drive from my house to Amherst VA which is were my GF lives and thats about a hour drive

i live in VA so temperatures vary from cold(-5to 0 to last few days at 100)

im on here mainly because i had to put a new engine in my truck. my truck only has 97,k miles, but the previous owner did not take care of the engine. long story short, i went in to have my headgasket done along with getting everything machined, now im putting a new engine in it.....

with this engine it comes with a one year unlimited mile warranty. but the warranty says to change the oil every 3,k

id like to run synthetics... i was thinking AMsoil for a long time, in my truck i was running castrol edge, then my dad started using mobil 1 in his new f150 king ranch.....

so should i not worry about changing my oil after the break in period? so first 300 miles, change oil, then then go to 3000, then would going to every 6k be fine? and what oil would be best? i just dont want to buy another friggin engine!

also on a side note, when i have time and not working 72-86 hours a week, i do like to wheel my truck....

so driving is anywhere and inbetween slow and easy to running the pee out of it..

thanks for your time
 
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If you're thinking Amsoil, run Amsoil. No waiting necessary. Any oil with a good shot of Moly is desired and their Sig. Series has a strong shot of Moly.

Now, if the PO did not take care of the engine, most likely the rest of it wasn't taken care of either. Check out & consider changing other fluids, the air filter (cheap) as necessary. Then it'll last a longer time.

Good luck +
welcome2.gif
 
I've been a mechanic for 20+ years and I've seen some ridiculous things happen when it comes to companies backing warrantees. If you want to switch to a synthetic oil with longer drain intervals then I'd recommend getting written approval from the engine rebuilder first. Although you shouldn't have any problems with the engine, and even though you might win a fight in court, the path of least resistance is to do what the builder wants. We've got plenty of vans in our fleet running standard drain intervals with less than the best oil that have over 200k miles and quite a few at or near the 300k mark. IMO you'll be fine if you have to use standard oil for a couple of years.
 
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Do the first 4 or 5 oil changes at 3K as they recommend. Use a good conventional oil. You should find out by then if the rebuilder messed anything up.

I would go Amsoil OE or XL to 5K intervals if you have anything of your year left. The oil will not fail in such short intervals. After that, you can switch to Amsoil SS and at least double your interval.

Please contact me for your Amsoil products, proceeds help sponsor this site. Thanks!
 
Pennzoil conventional (PYB) for the first year at 3k, then you can switch to the synthetic and run longer changes. Running syn now at 3k is a waste of money. A Purolator Classic filter will also easily handle the short intervals.

The suggestion to flush your other fluids is a good one. Transmission, differentials, brakes, power steering, all should be done if maintenance history is in question. I like Red Line gear oils myself
 
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
Finally someone make some you what sense in here......


English can be tough.
banana2.gif
grin2.gif
I kid, I kid
grin2.gif


On a serious side - who hasn't made sense "here"?
 
Manufacturers use special oil in new vehicles. Is your new engine using this type of oil now? If so you should run it for 4000 - 5000 miles.

Are you going to run 5w-30? If so, I think good oil is oil that's "GM DEXOS 1" licensed.

Look for your favorite brand on the(long!) list.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Pennzoil conventional (PYB) for the first year at 3k, then you can switch to the synthetic and run longer changes. Running syn now at 3k is a waste of money. A Purolator Classic filter will also easily handle the short intervals.

The suggestion to flush your other fluids is a good one. Transmission, differentials, brakes, power steering, all should be done if maintenance history is in question. I like Red Line gear oils myself



+1, PYB is a great oil and so Id run that for good peace of mind. I dont know that anything you described is so severe that syn is absolutely critical, though IMO its always a good choice. But because you dont know if/how the engine rebuilder may have messed up, you want to be covering yourself wrt the warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
If you're thinking Amsoil, run Amsoil. No waiting necessary. Any oil with a good shot of Moly is desired and their Sig. Series has a strong shot of Moly.

Now, if the PO did not take care of the engine, most likely the rest of it wasn't taken care of either. Check out & consider changing other fluids, the air filter (cheap) as necessary. Then it'll last a longer time.

Good luck +
welcome2.gif






ive had my truck for a year now, im a freak when it comes to the maintenance, so far the only thing left for me todo is swap dif fluid, and T case fluid, the tranny was flushed when i bought the truck. 20, k ago. i was going to wait till 105k miles then have the tranny flushed again.

ya, that was another thing i forgot to add, was that i travel about 20,k a year to go to college... in the old engine i was running edge, with a K&N oil filter.. i love my K&N air filter...

then new engine will have break in oil.

and since yall reccomend just running conventional ill just run castrol GTX. ill be sure to buy a big case of it...

do you guys think that if i were to keep running a K&N oil filter i could keep going every 6 k miles with that? even though id be changing the oil every 3?

the engine will be in my truck monday thats why i just wanted more opinions.
 
Does the warranty require changing the oil and filter at 3k? If so, it would be a waste to use a premium filter. I'd probably use cheaper oil and filters for the first year. Save the synthetic oil and expensive filters for after your warranty period. But, if you can change the filter out every other time and keep the warranty, you shouldn't have problems.

Still, PYB and a Purolator Classic filter can be had for $20-$25 at WM depending on the size of your sump. For a young guy working three jobs, I'd suggest saving your money and putting it towards some good gear oil or ATF.
 
+2 on the Pennzoil conventional. Just use a good conventional and filter combo on sale for the warranty year. Save the synthetic for later...
 
ive always just used castrol GTX for dino oil, whats the difference between castrol and penz? besides my preference what would make penz any better?

thanks yall have been helpful!
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
The rebuilder should spec the same oil as the manufacturer.
If not, he did something wrong.

have not gottin the engine yet, it should be here tommrow
 
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