What oil is in your vehicle? Syn or conventional?

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GC 0w-30
apprx. 3k oci
Bitog made me choose it
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plus, for warranty purposes and b/c of the aluminum head/block engine
I hope it is full synthetic
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Comments: my mpg really bites
 
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M1EP 5w30
5k OCI
I am told you cant go wrong with M1 in a toyota engine.
Redline 5w20 is next and probably the only time. too $$$.
 
Honda Civic CX
QS Peak Performance 5W30 (dino) 5K OCI

Older car, summer driving, limited OCI = dino

Mazda Protege
QS Peak Performance 5W30 (dino) 4K OCI

Short OCI in summer, again no need for synth

Honda CRV
Esso XD3 0W30 (synth) 70% + Formula1 5W20 (dino) 30%, projected 5K OCI

Winter driving, low temps, need startup protection = mostly synth and lower weight

Will do the same for Mazda in December, again for winter driving.

I use synth in the winter for protection below 0F. Don't do long OCIs.
 
1997 Mercedes C230, normally aspirated 4-cyl.

Currently: Mix of Delo 400 15W-40 and TropArtic 10W-30 syn blend
OCI: ~3500 miles/4 months
Reason: Already had some Delo stashed away; low price/good reputation on the TropArtic. Experimenting to see how engine performs (so far no worries), what kind of gas mileage a thinner oil might yield.
 
Wife's Acura 03 3.2TL
- PZ 5w-20
- 4800 miles OCI
- Found a good deal @ Home Depot, not that impressed with M1 0w-20 that was used for the previous 12 OCI’s
- I think it's a dino/syth blend
- will UOA it to see how it compares to M1

02 BMW 330ci
- GC 0w-30
- 6-8k miles OCI (this is how much I drive it in a year)
- It is a synthetic
- Chose it based on UOA's and Terry Dyson's advice

04 Chev Avalanche 5.3L (daily winter driver)
- GC 0w-30
- OLM's OCI extrapolates to 4300 miles based on my use
- UOA's for similar enginens, got to do something with all that GC I have lying around
- will UOA when OLM calls for an oil change and will see about extending it.
- Would like to run XD3 0w-30 HDEO, but this truck had one catalyst failure at 36k under warranty, and my previous chev K1500 had a catalyst failure at 130k, so I'm not taking any chances.

Early Bronco ('69 302 v8 - newly rebuilt - mild performance rebuild)
- Castrol High Mileage 10w-30 + VSOT
- OCI is once every year or two (gets almost no miles/year since restoration)
- I think this is a syn blend
- for the additives and extra ZDDP for the new cam and lifters


03 Triumph Sprint ST (motorcycle)
- M1 15w-50
- OCI 2-3k miles
- because it's closest to the Triumph/M1 made 15w-50 at 1/3 the cost
- This is a syn (or at least it used to be).
- Can't buy M1 15w-50 in canada anymore, just M1 5w-50. We are seeing the new M1 bottles so I'm hoping we'll see it again soon.
 
Currently: Pennzoil Platinum
OCI: 5.5k miles
Reason: Good UOA & price performance ratio
Type: Hydrocracked Synth
Others: Yep...the rebates I got with it...
 
2001 Accord with 168K+ miles.

Lately it's been Yellow bottle Pennz 5w20, but my last oil change I went with the Home Depot blend (Pennz 5w20-3qts; Platinum 10w30-1.5 qts). Next, I'm going back to straight 5w20 for those cold winter days. LOL, mostly 40F, at worst, with an occasional 20F night (once in a blue moon).

So mine is mostly conventionl (GrpII), with the possible exception of my Plat, which has a date code before Nov '05.
 
2003 Passat 1.8T @ 61K.

Just switched from dino to GC.

4 quarts of GC and a Mann filter = good oil change.

Also have 2 oz. of Auto-RX in there as a maintenance dose.

Will do 5K OCI's, as always.
 
I forgot about the other 2. Wish there was an edit button.

99 Protege 80K+
The last 2 changes have been Maxlife 10w30. I'm trying to fix a weep from what appears to be the rear main seal.
I believe I've read here that this is a Grp1 + 12% PAO + seal conditioners. I'll give it 3 changes (12K miles)to do it's job than try Castrols high mileage, which some have had success with on this board.

The '95 Altima (@245K+) gets whatever is left over. I still have some cheap 10W30 Havoline (remember that, $6.44 everyday Wally 5qt jug price) and a few Dollar tree Trop Artic 10W30 qts.
 
1991 taurus SHO
5w30 HDD Amsoil 18000 mile OCI
EaO 34 oil filter
5 speed Amsoil 5w30 trans oil

2006 toyota Van
Dads van
Amsoil installed with 6000 miles
25000 mile OCI

1993 Ford Taurus SHO ATX
All Amsoil street car
little brother's car

1993 Taurus SHO road course car only
Amsoil 5w30 ASL one year change maybe 1000 track miles
Amsoil EaO 34 oil filter, Amsoil EaA air filter
ATX uses Amsoil super shift ATF

1988 Ford F-250 7.3 diesel
5w30 HDD with dual filter with bypass
OCI with oil analysis
so far 46000 miles since initial fill
in 2003, add oil and change filters once a year
Amsoil air filter also

1969 Ranchero
351W 370+ RWHP
AOD trans
Amsoil 5w30 ASL
Amsoil ATF universal
 
1988 Dodge Ram D100 5.2L 318 311,000 miles
Maxlife Syn. 10w-30 Longer OCI's
Group III or IV.

2004 Dodge Durango 4.7L 55,000 miles
Changing to Valvoline Syn. 5w-30
Longer OCI's Group III or IV.
 
Lessee- in the cars I maintain, right now:
1994 Mercury Grand Marquis, 4.6 L V-8, ~108 K: current fill conventional 10w30 Havoline SM w/Lube Control. My mother's car, change oil in it now every 6 months. The 6 months is about up, just under 3000 miles on this oil fill, in the next week or two will change oil & end the world as we know it- by refilling with Havoline 5w20 SM w/LC!
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A little experimentation is good for the soul.
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1997 Dodge Neon 2.0 L DOHC, ~198 K: just finished up a double-dose of Auto-RX, now on my first non-clean, non-rinse OCI- sort of "rinsing the rinse".
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I plan to keep this OCI short, maybe 3000-3500 miles, then a bit longer, then settle into ~5000 mile interval, maybe 6K if UOA says OK. Current fill- ~3.5 qts Formula Shell 5w30 SL/GF-3, + 1 qt Schaeffer Supreme 7000 5w30 SL/GF-3, + ~9 oz Lube Control. At next fill, undecided now whether to continue with Formula Shell, or maybe fill w/Havoline 5w30 SM.

I chose Formula Shell & Havoline because of good UOAs posted on BITOG & low pri$e.
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Both cars are running conventional dino oil- sole exception being the 1 qt of BobZoil(Schaeffer blend) that probably has about 20-25% PAO content. I see no need for full synthetic oil in either car- it may be better, but a good dino w/LC is good enough. I do have 9-10 qts of TropArtic 5w30 SM Syn blend on the shelf- bought it out of curiousity & because of its good UOAs posted here.

If I really wanted to go for *long* OCI's again- I'd probably go back to Bobzoil, or maybe try Pennzoil Platinum.

I have about 100 qts of oil stashed now, mostly Formula Shell(all at $1.29-$1.33/qt) & Havoline($1.49/qt or less), & will continue to use until it's gone- includes giving my brother an oil change or two for his Durango 4.7. And I'll continue using Lube Control with any oil, in both cars. The only exception: when doing an Auto-RX clean or rinse.
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2005 Trailblazer EXT I6
Mobil 1 5W-30 Oil
OCI according to OLM (usually 6k-10K)

1995 Ford Aerostar EXT 4.0 Engine (190K miles - original engine)
Valvoline Durablend 5W-30 (have used 10W-30 over the years)
OCI 5K-7.5K
 
1989 Toyota Cressida
-Havoline 10W-30 w/ Napa Gold filter
-4-5K
-Many good Havoline UOAs here on BITOG and good bargain--thought I would try it

1990 Toyota Pickup
-Havoline 10W-30 w/ Napa Gold filter
-4-5K
-Same reason as stated above--Used to run M1 in this truck prior to Havoline, but might try Grp III like PP next time just for grins

2000 Toyota Sienna
-M1 EP 5w-30 w/ Napa Gold filter
-5K
-Been using regular M1 and now EP for years because it's a quality Grp IV oil and seems to work very well in this van (known sludger). However, read here today that this EP formulation may no longer be Grp IV.
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Say it isn't so!
 
2003 Toyota Echo
M1 5w-30
8,000 km OCI

wife's 2003 Hyundai Elantra
GC 0w-30
6,000 km OCI, still under warranty

Switching both to Esso XD3 0w-30 at next oil change due to price and great reviews here.
 
2001 Nissan Frontier 4x4 3.3L V6 Supercharged (VG33ER)
- Using GC 0w-30 w/ Napa Gold filter @ 5k interval
- soon to switch to Amsoil ASL 5w-30

1998 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L
- Using Trop Artic 5w-30 w/ Supertech filter
- switching to Chevron 5w-30 (just got a MIR deal from CSK @ 59 cents a quart)
 
Vehicle: 01 camry L4 5sfe 69000kms.
OIL: Fuchs GT1 0w-20 ________79 for a 4L Jug.
Filter: K&N HP 1003 ________19
OCI: 15000/1 year.
 
2003 VW GTI 1.8T
Lubromoly 0W-40
Mann filter
5k-6k mile OCI

2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe
Syntec 10W-30; so far has impressed me vs. Gold GC
Purolator Pure 1 filter
5k-7k OCI, depending on many things
 
Car #1: 94 Toyota 4x4 pickup with 104K miles
Oil: Castrol GTX Dino 5W30
Filter: Purolator PP
OCI: 5,000 miles
Why: I have been using Castrol oil since my college day. Always like it and never have any problem with it so I stay with it.

Car #2: 96 Toyota Avalon XLS with 134K miles
Oil: Castrol GTX High Mileage 5W30
Filter: Pure One
OCI: 5,000 miles
Why: Same reason as Car #1

Car #3: 99 Honda Accord LX with 104K miles
Oil: Valvoline Dino 5W30
Filter: Valvoline
OCI: 5,000 miles
Why: On the Honda Accord or any Honda for that matter, it is impossible to change the oil yourself without jacking the car up and craw underneath it. That's a chance I don't want to take so I went to Valvoline for the oil change but I watch them as they do the oil change on my Accord. If anyone knows how to do the oil change on the Accord without jacking it up, please share it with me. Thanks.

Car #4: 2000 Honda Accord EX with 90K miles
Oil: Valvoline Synpower 5W30
Filter: Valvoline
OCI: 6,000 miles
Why: Same reason as Car #3
 
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