What oil is in your vehicle? Syn or conventional?

[Thatwouldbegreat]

This thread is related to the 'Prove syn is better' thread by The Critic.

What oil is in your car?

What oil change interval [OCI] ?

Why did you choose it?

Do you think it is full synthetic, Hydrocracked synthetic, a synthetic blend, or conventional mineral?

Any comments?

--------------
First oil / vehicle combination

I have two 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i 's

- Castrol Green GC 0W-30,
-7K OCI,
-I picked this oil based on the viscosity, value $5/qt for a Group IV/ V ACEA A3 rated 'thick' 0W-30,
-full synthetic
-comments, smooth running oil, perhaps a slight mpg penalty, some oil consumption .33 qt / 2000 miles [n theory related to the volatile 0W component.]

 

[Bryanccfshr]

I am running Tropartic in both my Toyotas at 5k mile intervals. The oil is a grp II grp III blend. I chose this oil because it is a quality oil at a great price and the interval is the factory recomended interval.

I would run any current SM GF4 oil for this interval in my engines.(I do dope with LC).

 

[tripleM]

Currently: Pennzoil Platinum
OCI: 5.5k miles
Reason: Good UOA & price performance ratio
Type: Hydrocracked Synth
Others: If they keep giving rebates away & I score qt for a Grp III synth. Then why not??!!

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

1986 BMW 325es

Currently: Redline 10W-40
OCI: 7K miles
Reason: Smoothest running oil I've found, near zero oil consumption
Type: Polyol Ester full synthetic
Others: This seems like a perfect year round oil in this M20 chipped motor.

 

[ConfederateTyrant]

Oil: Amsoil Series 3000 5w-30
OCI: Not to exceed 15,000 miles/1 year without UOA at each OCI (perhaps when funding comes about, I will test 20,000+ mile intervals).
Reason: Testing different grades of Amsoil to see which one I like the best, as well as UOA comparison.
Comments: Engine is strong, quiet, and smooth. Amsoil has always made my engine run much quieter and smoother than Castrol or Castrol High Mileage.

 

[bar1]

'96 Audi S6 2.2 TQ (AAN I5 turbo engine):
Currently: M1 0W-40
OCI: 7500 km (4.7K miles) or at least two times pr. year
Reason: Reputation, turbo engine
Type: Full synthetic, grp. IV

'05 Opel Astra 1.8 (I4 engine):
Currently: Opel full synthetic 5W-30
OCI: 15000 km (9.4K miles) or at least once a year
Reason: Price, warranty
Type: "Full" synthetic, grp. III maybe a little grp IV, V

 

[Mustang_Cougar]

Currently: SuperTech Synthetic 5w30.

Engine: Toyota 1ZZFE (Pontiac Vibe AWD).

OCI: 3 months/whatever miles (usually
Reason: Hellbent on using synthetics but constraints of warranty requirements prevent long OCI's. Meets or exceeds API SM/CF, ILSAC GF-4, ACEA A1-02. Allows me to stockpile the good stuff (Mobil 1, PP, QS Torque) when discounted/rebated for longer use OCI's once out of warranty.

Type: Hydrocracked Synth

Comments: Amazingly, engine runs just like it did with Mobil 1: No explosions, melted firewalls or dangerous calamities. Accleration is as smooth (albeit, slow) and engine noise as moderate as a 1ZZFE engine can probably be. Probably won't use this oil much longer if Wallyworld prices continue to increase ($12.57/5 qts), but I've stockpiled enough of it at ~$10.50 to get me through the warranty period and onto the good stuff.

 

[Steelers]

Currently: Pennzoil Platinum
Engine: 2.0 Acura RSX
Reason: $4 a quart at Wallyworld
OCI: 10K
Comments: Just dropped the PP in today. Have used M1 and GC in this motor, all on 10K OCIs. No real difference in driveability, never burns a drop of any. Primarily choose synthetics to run 10K OCIs. Just don't trust a conventional oil to do it. Nice only changing oil twice a year.

Currently: Motorcraft 5w-20
Engine: 4.6 Ford
Reason: Dealer installed oil
Type: Synthetic Blend
Comments: Filter is a PITA to remove so I've been going to well liked dealer for last 2 changes. Hard to go wrong with this oil and a MC filter. Previously ran M1 and GC in this motor, truck "feels" best with this light 20 weight and burns less oil than with the synthetics. Put me in the group that wasn't impressed with M1, it burned off quick and made the thing "noisy."

 

[delacerda]

What oil is in your car? GC/GTX blend (25/75)

What oil change interval [OCI]? 3750 miles

Why did you choose it? Wanted to have control over the % of my synthetic blend.

Do you think it is full synthetic, Hydrocracked synthetic, a synthetic blend, or conventional mineral? Blend

 

[HTSS_TR]

'94 Lexus LS400 170k miles
OCI: Mobil 1 5W40 1 year/15k miles; Conventional oil 10W40 6 months/7.5k miles

'00 Mercedes Benz E430 78k miles
OCI: Mobil 1 0W40 1 year/12k miles

'04 Honda S2000 18k miles
OCI: Mobil 1 5W40 1 year/6k miles

 

[Tom NJ]

Oil: Mobil 1 EP 7.5W-35

(Blend of 2 parts 5W-30 and 1 part 15W-50)
OCI: 10K or one year
Why: True synthetic, robust additive system, good reputation, readily available, low cost
Type: True synthetic (Grp IV & V)
Comments: Engine looks clean, no problems

 

[blupupher]

Elantra:
Mobil 1 0w-30
7500 miles
Because it was $1/qt
It is PAO

Van (different than sig, won't let me change it):
4 qts Pennzoil dino 5w-20, 1.5 qts Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20
6 months (4500-5000 miles)
Because it was on clearance/ sale
PP is Grp V, Regular dino is whatever Pennzoil Dino is.

 

[DABEAR95]

2002 VW TDI
Mobil Delvac 5w40
10K miles
UOA on other TDI's
Full Synthetic

2005 GMC 5.3L
Castrol Syntec 0w30
Oil Life Monitor (~7,300 miles)
UOA on similar engines
Full Synthetic Group IV

Jason

 

[wander2039]

06 Ranger 2.3L
PP 5w20
7.5k+ miles
Think it's hydrocracked?
Cheap

 

[addyguy]

2002 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.2 litre OHV
Castrol GTX 5W-30 w/NAPA gold filter
Group II base oil; with advanced Lubrizol add pack (Mannix)
Interval will be 10k kilometers (6k miles) b/c of ease of keeping track (130k, 140k, etc...) - works out to about 3 months currently (lots of driving between 3 drivers!)

 

[Dave Sherman]

Make: 2004 Honda CR-V
Oil: Mobil 1 5W-20
Interval: 5000 miles
PAO-ester, full synthetic
Why? Good reputation, reasonable price, lower oil consumption
Comments: Can't tell any mileage increase, but valve train noise is less noticeable, and oil consumption is next to nothing. Ran Castrol GTX before, but would use ~1 quart between changes.

 

[Ugly3]

Make: 1988 Chrysler T&C, 190,000 Miles
Oil: Mobil 1 5w30
Filter: Pure One
OCI: 10,000 miles
Why: Good Oil, fewer changes, very low consumption, excellent cold weather performance.

Make: 2006 Toyota RAV4, 5,000 miles.
Oil: Mobil 1 5w20
Filter: OEM
OCI: 5,000 miles (warranty)
Why: Good Oil and excellent performance.

 

[EricZoom]

04' Mazda6 V-6

Mobil 1 0w20 or 5w20 w/K&N filter

OCI - 6 months/5-7k mi.

Engine seems to love this stuff, more so with the 0w20

 

[RTexasF]

'04 Accord 2.4l 22+K miles
OIL: Mobil 1 0W20 API-SL Full synthetic
FILTER: Honda-Filtech
OCI: 7500-8000 mi.
WHY: Pep Boys buy one get one free coupons in '04 or '05 (don't remember)

 

[MysticGold04]

Vehicle: 04 Tacoma V6 ODO 32,400mi
OIL: Havoline 5w30 API SM Dino
Filter: OEM Toyota (Bought a case of 10 for $30)
OCI: 5000 Mi/6 months
Why: Inexpensive and gives good performance. I ran Mobil 1 5w30 after 3200 miles and honestly did not notice a whole lot of difference in power or gas mileage. Found out through reading here that Havoline is an excellent dino oil and is readily available.

Vehicle: 06 Suzuki Forenza 2.0L I-4 ODO 5200mi
OIL: Havoline 5w30 API SM Dino
Filter: Purolator Pure One
OCI 5000 miles/6 mos
Why: Same reason as above. 1st oil change was at the dealer because it was free. Then I went to 5k on that OCI, then put the Hav in a few weeks ago. The dealer thought I was a weirdo for doing the 1st OCI at 1280 miles, but oh well I have my reasons!