What oil for 97 jeep 4.0 ?

[MNgopher]

I've got an '88 Cherokee with the 4.0 in it. I've run 5w30 and 10w30 in several conventional and synthetic brands, and also run Rotella 5w40 year around.

After all that, my advice in our climate is to run a 5w30 oil in the winter months. Any competent name brand 5w30 conventional will do just fine in this motor. Run a quality 10w30 through the rest of the year or a xw40 if you are so inclined.

I was once on the 5w40 Rotella T synthetic bandwagon, and ran it year around. Cold start oil pressures in the dead cold of winter were a bit high, and stayed that way. I switched back to a 5w30 for the winter and a 10w30 for the summer, and haven't regretted it. Subjectively, it seems to start better in the winter under this routine as well.

Enjoy the ride!

 

[Zaedock]

I wouldn't start running syn in a 4.0L that spent 158K on conventional.

Besides, a 2.5L or 4.0L on conventional will go just as long with just as little wear as any syn. One of the best 4.0L used oil analysis I've seen was with Havoline 10W30. My Delo SAE30 and GTX 10W40 used oil analysis were pretty good too, despite it's extreme use.

 

[Gary Allan]

The best oil I've ever used in my 4.0 was Delvac 1 back in 2003 or so. One of the best oils ever made, imo ...bar none. It a takes about a year for it to pay over other offerings. Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 is a great buy ..but it always appears to struggle to meet spec's at every evolution since it's lags the spec's by up to a year in availability.

Use synths for your winter ..but otherwise, don't use them if you're not going to run them long enough to make them pay over a conventional.

The 4.0 won't care one way or the other. Use a 20 weight in the winter if you want to. A straight 30 in the warmer months if you want to. Lots of options.

 

[Huie83]

Thanks for all the replies.

I do agree this egine is bullet proof. We had a 88 cherokee with the 4.0, ran it to 200K on cheap dino no issues.

After joining this site I am now much more oil concous!

I think my plan is 5w30 for winter and either 10 or 5W 40 for summer. I may run 5W40 all year round as it will only be driven about 10 miles a day plus a 300 mile round trip to the lake cabin 4-5 times a year.

Now comes the other question, which oil filter? I have had good luck with purolator. Also how does one figure out which oversized filter will fit? I see members on this thread talk about oversized filters all the time but don't know how they figure out which one to run...

 

[Gary Allan]

PL30001 is the PureOne that's a longer version of what you use.

 

[addyguy]

Used to work with a guy who had an '02 Wrangler 4.0 that he regularly used for hard, hard off-roading and daily driving. Ran the absolutely cheapest conventional 10w30 he could find, and Fram filters every 3-4k miles. When I last saw him, it had about 130k miles, and ran like a top.

 

[lars11]

Is there a larger Wix filter for the 4.0 too? What number?

 

[Gary Allan]

51515

Regular size

Part Number: 51085
UPC Number: 765809510852
Principal Application: Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Vehicles (91-08), Mitsubishi Eclipse (95-99); Caterpillar 3 Series Excavators, 9 Series Loaders, Kubota
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.790
Outer Diameter Top: 3.660
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=15/28
Burst Pressure-PSI: 290
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 20

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.834 2.462 0.200

slightly longer

Part Number: 51068
UPC Number: 765809510685
Principal Application: Agco Tractors, Chrysler (70-91), Ford/Mercury (83-97), Kubota Engines, Land Rover (95-04), Toyota (68-90)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.338
Outer Diameter Top: 3.660
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=10/26
Burst Pressure-PSI: 275
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.834 2.462 0.200

Larger size

Part Number: 51515
UPC Number: 765809515154
Principal Application: Chrysler Family of Cars/Trucks (57-70), Ford Family of Cars/Trucks (57-00), Mazda Trucks (94-00), Toyota Landcruiser (71-96) - (Two Quart version is 51773)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 5.178
Outer Diameter: 3.660
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=13/23
Burst Pressure-PSI: 290
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.834 2.462 0.200

Same can diameter ..same thread ..same gasket ..longer can.

 

[UNC017]

Originally Posted By: Zaedock
I wouldn't start running syn in a 4.0L that spent 158K on conventional.



I've switched engines over from conventional to synthetic at ~200,000 miles and run them on out to well over 400,000 miles with no issues. The only thing to really evaluate is whether you want to start extending OCIs and if (in your application) there's a benefit to higher viscosity indices that most synthetics have. That's precisely why I like Rotella synthetic- high VI and high TBN. Dino would work fine, but I'm an oil obsessive-compulsive... which is why I'm on here.

 

[aztec12]

go with valvoline maxlife 10w30 blend

 

[Huie83]

Well, i just pulled the trigger and bought it!

its a 97 cherokee country edition, loaded, sunroof etc.

Only thing that i could find wrong was the back brakes grinded when stopping, time for a brake job!

It really ran great, couldn't tell that it had 158K on it. According to the Valvoline oil change sticker the oil was just changed 500 miles ago, 5w30 conventional.

steal of a deal @ $2200

 

[rg200amp]

Originally Posted By: Huie83
Well, i just pulled the trigger and bought it!

its a 97 cherokee country edition, loaded, sunroof etc.

Only thing that i could find wrong was the back brakes grinded when stopping, time for a brake job!

It really ran great, couldn't tell that it had 158K on it. According to the Valvoline oil change sticker the oil was just changed 500 miles ago, 5w30 conventional.

steal of a deal @ $2200



Great!!! Best of luck with it!
I am trying to buy another mid 90s Wrangler. With 150,000 miles they are selling for 6000-7000!!!
I am in no hurry. Once I find a black one with a 4.0L, 5 speed, soft top and soft doors, under 100,000 miles I am buying it on the spot!

 

[Nickdfresh]

You guys are giving me bad ideas...

 

[Huie83]

It must just be a Jeep thing

I had a 88 cherokee Laredo with almost 200K that I sold a few years back, I have missed it ever since.

It's the simplicity and rugidness of the truck that I like. They don't ride or look the best but something about them...

Even with 200K+ miles they still run and drive great. Hard to say about most high mileage SUV/trucks.

 

[FastSUV]

I do not run the larger filter (FL1A sized) on my 4.0...there have been some who have reported lower oil pressures in certain situations by having the larger filter. I realize it lets u run more oil, but the only reason I can see to really use a larger filter is to run longer OCI...the media will not clog up as fast, but since I do 4k intervals, I used standard sized filter.

 

[mstrjon32]

Originally Posted By: Huie83
its a 97 cherokee country edition, loaded, sunroof etc.


FYI as far as I know the Cherokee never came with a stock factory sunroof, so watch that for leaks.

I'm running GTX HM 10w30 in my Cherokee now, and it's running fine with it, but it's due for an oil change and I'm probably going to give Rotella 10w30 or 15w40 a shot next time around. What I really need to do is get the GL-5 fluid out of my AX-15...

 

[MNgopher]

Congrats on the purchase. I just got my '88 Cherokee back on the road today (new radiator, power steering hoses, transmission return line - stuff that just wears out after 21+ years ). Like you said - just something about the rugged aspect of the thing that keeps appealing to me too...

 

[HawkeyeScott]

I think you're right with the 5w30 in the winter time up there. And I would think about an engine heater for those really cold mornings. I had a 1994 Cr. Ch. in Iowa a few years ago. As it got older, it really appreciated being plugged in. I can't tell you how much better it sounded with warm. easily pumpable oil on those -10 mornings. Plus, they're only about $20-25.

Also, Jeep seals can leak a lot anyway. You've heard the conventional to synthetic rumors about leaks. Some say it happens, others say it's B.S. I have a 2001 with 125K and I plan on running conventional the rest of her life. Don't want to tempt fate...

(I work with a guy who has a 95 Gr. Ch. with 285K on it. Nothing but conventional and cheap filters from various shops, garages, quick lube places. We overthink this stuff!)

And if I were you, I'd take some time and get all the fluids out of there. Transmission flush, radiator, rear-end, transfer case, etc. That way you know what you're starting with.

I wish you great luck.

 

[Chris142]

If that Jeep ever quits and has no spark the Crank Positon Sensor is usually the culprit. It's on the drivers side of the bellhousing on top.

Easiest way to get to it is from underneeth.

 

[Gary Allan]

My son's 00 XJ had crank sensor go bad. It didn't even show up with a generic code scanner.