What oil filter is everyone using??

[Patman]

I run the K&N HP1004 on my wife's 2000 Civic and currently have a Purolator Premium Plus L30040 on my 95 Firebird Formula, but in two weeks when I do the next oil change I'm putting on a K&N HP3002. I feel the K&Ns will do very well for extended drains compared to the Purolators.

 

[MNgopher]

Purolator Pure Ones PL24651 on 2 4.6l V8s in Ford 1/2 ton pickups.

Pure One PL14658 (I think) on an '88 4.0l Jeep Cherokee

Purolator Premium Plus or something on the old '89 cavalier thats waiting to die...

 

[monarch]

I've found that using Toyota OEM oil, air and fuel filters and coolant in combination with Mobil 1 10W-30 engine oil virtually eliminates engine wear.

My '86 Corolla was running strong when it was totalled in a small traffic collision at 394,000 miles.

My '92 4 cylinder pickup has like new compression on all cylinders after 417,000 miles. The valvetrain on this engine is the most susceptible to wear, but to date, the tips of my valve adjustment screws show no wear indentations, my rocker arm cannot be wiggled so no significant wear in the shafts has developed yet, my rocker arm spacers have not worn and caused any rocker arm misalignment, the camshaft lobes and rocker arm pads have no visible wear marks. Nothing has worn out in my timing chain mechanism yet either.

Thus, it appears this Toyota engine will continue on to the 600,000 or 700,000 mile mark without needing anything overhauled.

Using OEM oil, air and fuel filters, coolant, brake fluids, tune up parts, etc. may be unfashionable and boring, but my experience suggests the Japanese engineers know what's best to maintain their vehicles.

 

[OneQuartLow]

Monarch, I have to wonder what you're selling. These OEM posts are truly bizarre.

David

 

[Patman]

OEM parts in a lot of cases are a compromise. Especially with oil filters. They design them to not filter out so small, because they know a lot of everyday drivers will forget to change their oil. But the premium filters are better because they filter out smaller particles, and the people that buy them know this so they don't push them beyond their limits.

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

I'm using a FRAM FILTER on my 1.9L ford escort. And so far, I like it. I was using M1's filter and the wear #'s were higher. My suspicion is that the higher resistance in the filter caused my engine to do more dry starts than what the fram does. Running the 15w40 oil that I do, the m1 filter was a bit too much resistant to flow. Now that I have the fram on there, My wear #'s are lower and my starts are quieter.

 

[Pops]

quote:

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Originally posted by OneQuartLow:
Monarch, I have to wonder what you're selling. These OEM posts are truly bizarre.

David

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Yes indeed he seems disenchanted with this forum and posts about the fact we are not interested in factory stuff and seems amazed we don't follow the owners manuals to a T and use factory oil what ever that is these days which would vary from month to month in most cases when the dealer other than Ford buys bulk oil at the best price .

I use Fram filters on Fords and Chevrolet. Alot of bad reviews has not scared me away from using them .

The Supertech ST-2 has done well when used on our 4.6 Ford and has quality construction by the looks of it .

 

[monarch]

I see lots of claims that this or that aftermarket filter or lubricant is superior to OEM but no real world monster mileage stories to back the claim up.

And a monster mileage story can be misleading too - if the motor has alot of wear and is on its last legs by 400,000 miles.

By contrast, an Asian motor maintained on OEM everything will NOT be worn out at 400,000 miles. I have seen this first hand on two vehicles. So the argument that OEM filters
are "a compromise" is not relevant since even if true, the Asian engine will still run 400,000 miles without suffering major wear.

In summary, OEM parts and fluids do not cost
significantly more if purchased from a discount dealer and have a proven 400-700,000 mile track record.

This is why I am enthusiatic about OEM in regard to Asian vehicles.

 

[Patman]

A little overenthusiastic if you ask me.

 

[joee12]

quote:

---

Originally posted by monarch:
I see lots of claims that this or that aftermarket filter or lubricant is superior to OEM but no real world monster mileage stories to back the claim up.

And a monster mileage story can be misleading too - if the motor has alot of wear and is on its last legs by 400,000 miles.

By contrast, an Asian motor maintained on OEM everything will NOT be worn out at 400,000 miles. I have seen this first hand on two vehicles. So the argument that OEM filters
are "a compromise" is not relevant since even if true, the Asian engine will still run 400,000 miles without suffering major wear.

In summary, OEM parts and fluids do not cost
significantly more if purchased from a discount dealer and have a proven 400-700,000 mile track record.

This is why I am enthusiatic about OEM in regard to Asian vehicles.

---

Monarch, I drive an Acura Integra, and purchase some parts from the Acura dealership, only because a friend of mine works there, and I get one heck of a discount. I know for a fact that the Honda Oil is only rebadged Mobil Drive Clean, and now some of the oil filters are just Frams painted blue. While I agree that some parts are higher quality from dealers, when it comes to oil, oil filters and air filters, 9 out of 10 times you are going to save money buying aftermarket and getting the same quality.

 

[Pablo]

re: FRAM

I always thought the rap against Fram was the lack of a GOOD anti-flowback valve...an oil diode so to speak...

I know in stock Volvo red (Fe) blocks the Fram oil filters are considered no boner/NFG/kaput because the oil will drain back and indeed nasty dry starts ensue...

 

[monarch]

To Joee:

I don't have experience with Acuras, but genuine Toyota oil filters are only $3.50 from discount Toyota dealers. Some of these filters are made by Nippondenso and others are made by Purolator to Toyota specifications. If you open up the made-by-Purolator filters you will see there is no over-the-counter equivalent Purolator filter that exactly matches the genuine Toyota design. For example, even the top of the line Purolator Pure One filter ($5.99 at Pep Boys) has a 23% thinner metal filter shell, a different oil filter seal design and several internal differences compared to the genuine Toyota filter.

It would be interesting to know if you had laboratory proof that the Mobil Drive Clean available at retail automotive stores is EXACTLY the same product as genuine Honda Motor oil.

 

[Terry]

We ran Honda OEM oil filters for years on Honda test engines. No problems. If they are in fact Fram I am amazed, sounds possible maybe in Canada but I haven't seen proof that convinces me.

I currently run the cheapest AC PF 1127 for the Honda engines. Motorcraft FL 793 for 2001 Toyota 3.0 L V6 with great filtering /flow combo. I agree the Toyota oil filters are also good whether Denso or PuroDenso. I just can't get them cheap enough for 15- 20 changes a year. I've never found them for $3.50 and I get good discounts.

 

[MustangGT]

Personally I don't keep a car (nor would I desire too) for 300,000 - 400,000 miles like "monarch", and I am not convinced of toyota's filters being great at all, I too have heard that some frams are rebadged as toyota oil filters. If you have a quality built car with a normal oil changes you need to buy factory filters, in most cases it is a waste of time and money, and if you think that toyota branded oil is superior to most SL rated oils your dreaming, but if you want to pay more they'll thank you.

Do you work for Toyota??

 

[digitaldrifter91]

quote:

---

Originally posted by BOBISTHEOILGUY:
I'm using a FRAM FILTER on my 1.9L ford escort. And so far, I like it. I was using M1's filter and the wear #'s were higher. My suspicion is that the higher resistance in the filter caused my engine to do more dry starts than what the fram does. Running the 15w40 oil that I do, the m1 filter was a bit too much resistant to flow. Now that I have the fram on there, My wear #'s are lower and my starts are quieter.

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hehe after all my research in changing my oil filter you say this now!! hahah i switched to bosch..didnt watn to go mobil 1..i dont think my car needs it. 91 honda accord 150k. **** now im trippin again about oil filters..!

 

[joee12]

Terry- in my post I stated that "some" of the Honda oil filters are Frams. The "Made in Canada" ones, Honda part number,15400-PT7-005 are made by Fram. Terry, check your private messages.

Drifter - stick with the Bosch, you made a good decision.

Monarch - I do not have %100 proof that Honda is chemically the same as Mobil Drive Clean, but come on, do you honestly think that the same car would go more miles running Honda OEM oil versus Mobil Drive Clean.

-Joe

 

[mormit]

Re: Fram

Pablo: I believe that Bob was referring to his test in which a Fram filter apparently produced less wear than a M1. Could be a fluke or due to some other variable in the test but my theory...well, more guess than theory is that perhaps you can have too much filter efficiency.

In talking filters we discuss efficiency (particle capture), capacity, and sometimes surface area. What about flow rate and backpressure? As a filter is used the efficiency will increase due to the particulate from the oil being caught up in the filter, reducing the open spaces available for fluid flow. As the efficiency increases, flowrate is hindered and pressure drop increases over the filter.

So although the M1 is better initially when the oil is new and fairly clean, what is happening at 3-4k mi? Even if the M1 is not bypassing at that point, there may be slightly reduced flow and/or pressure to the engine.

This is just my theory from what I know of filters. It would be great to see filtering efficiency, flowrate, pressure drop, and bubble point info on used filters compared to new.

 

[digitaldrifter91]

ok im an idiot, ill stick with bosch..so whats all this talk...fram is better wear than mobil 1?? so with bosch do i got the best of both worlds??

 

[monarch]

joee12:

I do not use Toyota brand motor oil because Toyota has never stated it is the oil used as the factory fill. But I do use Toyota brand air, oil, and fuel filters and I use Toyota brand antifreeze and brake fluid because Toyota has said these are the factory original filters and fluids and because they cost about the same as equivalent aftermarket products available at auto parts stores (if purchased from an online Toyota discount dealer)

I have never worn out a brake caliper, wheel cylinder, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder or brake master cylinder after 417,000 miles using OEM brake fluid.

I have never worn out a radiator, heater core or even a cooling system hose after 417,000 miles of using Toyota antifreeze.

I have never worn out a fuel pump or had any fuel system problems after 417,000 miles of using Toyota fuel and air filters. Not even my fuel injectors have needed any attention or
additive to keep them clean. They must still be pretty clean as I passed a Calif. smog test just 4 days ago and my power and gas mileage has not deteriorated over the years.

I have never experieced an ignition system failure after 417,000 miles of using Toyota brand spark plugs, distributor caps, rotors and spark plug wires.

No, I do not work for Toyota. I sell agricultural chemicals for a living and rack up alot of miles being on the road making sales calls.

I thought this was a car care forum so I am sharing my experiences. My conclusion is
the Japanese engineers have figured out all the car durability secrets we need to know if only we were willing to follow their maintainance interval instructions and use the products they say are best to maintain our cars.

 

[Judd]

quote:

---

Originally posted by monarch:
joee12:

I do not use Toyota brand motor oil because Toyota has never stated it is the oil used as the factory fill. But I do use Toyota brand air, oil, and fuel filters and I use Toyota brand antifreeze and brake fluid because Toyota has said these are the factory original filters and fluids and because they cost about the same as equivalent aftermarket products available at auto parts stores (if purchased from an online Toyota discount dealer)

I have never worn out a brake caliper, wheel cylinder, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder or brake master cylinder after 417,000 miles using OEM brake fluid.

I have never worn out a radiator, heater core or even a cooling system hose after 417,000 miles of using Toyota antifreeze.

I have never worn out a fuel pump or had any fuel system problems after 417,000 miles of using Toyota fuel and air filters. Not even my fuel injectors have needed any attention or
additive to keep them clean. They must still be pretty clean as I passed a Calif. smog test just 4 days ago and my power and gas mileage has not deteriorated over the years.

I have never experieced an ignition system failure after 417,000 miles of using Toyota brand spark plugs, distributor caps, rotors and spark plug wires.

No, I do not work for Toyota. I sell agricultural chemicals for a living and rack up alot of miles being on the road making sales calls.

I thought this was a car care forum so I am sharing my experiences. My conclusion is
the Japanese engineers have figured out all the car durability secrets we need to know if only we were willing to follow their maintainance interval instructions and use the products they say are best to maintain our cars.

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DANG!!!!!!

Thought I was doing good with a 68 Valiant with 350K+ miles, A 83 6.2L Blazer with 260K and a 89 S10 with 250K. You got me whooped big time!!!