Before BITOG it was mostly PYB and Castrol GTX. After BITOG still kept on using PYB but I added high mileage and synthetics to my shelf. Then I started buying more and more oil. At 55 quarts I think I will ease up on the oil purchases for now.
What oil did you use before BITOG?
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Growing up whatever Dad bought on sale; he'd take me with him whenever there was a per person limit. Quite a bit of Pennzoil, QS, and Sinclair in cardboard cans.
Later I ran lots of Havoline with the rebate specials Western Auto had.
With the demise of Western Auto, ran some Shell Fire & Ice, Phillips 66 Trop Artic, etc. whatever was on sale.
Then lots of low priced Exxon Superflow from Autozone.
Still running what's on sale / rebate but now it's PPPP, QSUD, Havoline Pro DS full syn as I can get these syn oils at lower cost than conventional.
Later I ran lots of Havoline with the rebate specials Western Auto had.
With the demise of Western Auto, ran some Shell Fire & Ice, Phillips 66 Trop Artic, etc. whatever was on sale.
Then lots of low priced Exxon Superflow from Autozone.
Still running what's on sale / rebate but now it's PPPP, QSUD, Havoline Pro DS full syn as I can get these syn oils at lower cost than conventional.
My answer to this is "not enough oil"
About a decade ago I almost killed my old Volvo 940 by not changing the oil for maybe 10,000 miles. The mechanic was surprised I hadn't caused catastrophic damage when he cleaned out what he could.
When I later got a Mazda 6, first oil change I got was at a quick change place, who ended up upselling me on a 5 minute oil flush. That might have contributed to that engine later developing a rear main seal leak that I never fixed.
Sadly that car got totaled out in an accident by an uninsured driver before I joined BITOG. Now that I think about it, I wonder how the Mazda's oil leak would've responded to high mileage oil and/or ATP-205...
Until my Lexus I was only using whatever conventional that the quick change place had on tap. Now it's clearance synthetic oil and filters.
About a decade ago I almost killed my old Volvo 940 by not changing the oil for maybe 10,000 miles. The mechanic was surprised I hadn't caused catastrophic damage when he cleaned out what he could.
When I later got a Mazda 6, first oil change I got was at a quick change place, who ended up upselling me on a 5 minute oil flush. That might have contributed to that engine later developing a rear main seal leak that I never fixed.
Sadly that car got totaled out in an accident by an uninsured driver before I joined BITOG. Now that I think about it, I wonder how the Mazda's oil leak would've responded to high mileage oil and/or ATP-205...
Until my Lexus I was only using whatever conventional that the quick change place had on tap. Now it's clearance synthetic oil and filters.
LOL. Probably Castrol GTX or even the Castrol Blend later. I also thought a 4K OCI was dangerous.
Now it's usually synthetics and 8k-10k OCI's. Less work and a little less currency involved.
Now it's usually synthetics and 8k-10k OCI's. Less work and a little less currency involved.
Valvoline conventional 10w-30.
Valvoine White bottle
Havoline
and Tropartic
Havoline
and Tropartic
I learned about API ratings around '81 or '82 when people were putting CC rated oil in the GM 6.2 liter diesels that required at least CD rated, and there were a bunch of legal issues with premature engine failures.
After that I usually just bought whatever was cheapest as long as it had the highest API rating I could find. I've run a lot of Super Tech oil all through the 1990's and still use a little here and there, but I typically wait until I find synthetics on clearance and stock up nowadays.
After that I usually just bought whatever was cheapest as long as it had the highest API rating I could find. I've run a lot of Super Tech oil all through the 1990's and still use a little here and there, but I typically wait until I find synthetics on clearance and stock up nowadays.
Getting a lof at walmart with qs and fram cor filter. Now i do my own oil with pphm and oem filter
Before, I used Motorcraft synthetic blend. After, I use Quaker State Synthetic Ultimate Durability.
Looks like Penzoil Synthetics may be Group V based on their web site.
Sorry, meant to say Penzoil Synthetics may be gropu IV. FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OILS
PurePlus™ Technology is our patented, revolutionary gas-to-liquid process which converts natural gas into a first-of-its-kind, extremely high quality full synthetic base oil. Because our base oil is made from natural gas, it is clear with fewer of the impurities found in crude oil, the start for many other traditional and synthetic motor oils. To that pure, clear base we add our high performance additives to create Pennzoil Platinum® with PurePlus™ Technology Full Synthetic line of motor oils designed for complete protection, without compromise. From Their web site at www.penzoil.com
PurePlus™ Technology is our patented, revolutionary gas-to-liquid process which converts natural gas into a first-of-its-kind, extremely high quality full synthetic base oil. Because our base oil is made from natural gas, it is clear with fewer of the impurities found in crude oil, the start for many other traditional and synthetic motor oils. To that pure, clear base we add our high performance additives to create Pennzoil Platinum® with PurePlus™ Technology Full Synthetic line of motor oils designed for complete protection, without compromise. From Their web site at www.penzoil.com
The Pennzoil GTL product is a hydrocracked Group III.
And it's spelled "Pennzoil", your link doesn't work for that reason.
Originally Posted By: Baracoa
Sorry, meant to say Penzoil Synthetics may be gropu IV. FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OILS
PurePlus™ Technology is our patented, revolutionary gas-to-liquid process which converts natural gas into a first-of-its-kind, extremely high quality full synthetic base oil. Because our base oil is made from natural gas, it is clear with fewer of the impurities found in crude oil, the start for many other traditional and synthetic motor oils. To that pure, clear base we add our high performance additives to create Pennzoil Platinum® with PurePlus™ Technology Full Synthetic line of motor oils designed for complete protection, without compromise. From Their web site at www.penzoil.com
And it's spelled "Pennzoil", your link doesn't work for that reason.
Originally Posted By: Baracoa
Sorry, meant to say Penzoil Synthetics may be gropu IV. FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OILS
PurePlus™ Technology is our patented, revolutionary gas-to-liquid process which converts natural gas into a first-of-its-kind, extremely high quality full synthetic base oil. Because our base oil is made from natural gas, it is clear with fewer of the impurities found in crude oil, the start for many other traditional and synthetic motor oils. To that pure, clear base we add our high performance additives to create Pennzoil Platinum® with PurePlus™ Technology Full Synthetic line of motor oils designed for complete protection, without compromise. From Their web site at www.penzoil.com
My apologies for the spelling issue and thank you for your correction and comment.
Which ones are the true Group IV or V synthetics?
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Originally Posted By: Baracoa
Which ones are the true Group IV or V synthetics?
Only ones I know of off the top of my head (the common ones):
Royal Purple Synerlec and Amsoil Signature Series,grp IV
Redline,grp V
I'm sure there are many more expensive hard to find exotics.
Which ones are the true Group IV or V synthetics?
Only ones I know of off the top of my head (the common ones):
Royal Purple Synerlec and Amsoil Signature Series,grp IV
Redline,grp V
I'm sure there are many more expensive hard to find exotics.
To the thread title question... the same oils I use now. Just upgraded to the current classifications.
Generally speaking, it was PYB, Quaker State, Exxon Superflo (often on sale in the late 1990s in Houston) or Valvoline. Almost always conventional.
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