gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
I bought my latest battery from Costco. A year later it croaked and they replaced it, no questions asked. I’ll keep buying from Costco.
What % Of A Battery's Rated A-h Capacity Is Acceptable?
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That is tempting - especially when working in these temperatures.
Those lithium battery backs are hurting once they get down to even -5c.
Sometimes salvage yards get vehicles with batteries that are not very old at all. And you can get them really cheap because usually people buy new.
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Group 35 is the same width and length, but it's height is 8 & 7/8 inches, where the 47 height is 7.5 inches. So, is there room for a battery that's 1 & 3/8 inch higher?
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Take a quick look at the tray, it may have provisions for an H6 as well.
They pro-rate now is my understanding. Its a new policy.
Walmart does not pro rate. 3 years is 3 years.
They pro-rate now is my understanding. Its a new policy.
Walmart does not pro rate. 3 years is 3 years.
OP is in Canada, not U.S.A. COSTCO Canada still has the best automotive battery warranty in the business, probably because they have not experienced the fraudulent/abusive replacement claims that forced them to eliminate the 36 month free replacement warranty in 'Merica. Here is COSTCO's current policy in Canada per the website.
Before you're wife's friend finds themselves stranded and cold, and your wife puts you in the dog house?
Yup, I have an 8.5 year battery ready to be replaced that behaves like this. Charged up, provides plenty of cranking amps, but won't hold that charge for more than a few days. Not such a big deal in a place like Miami, but in the Great White North?
My spiffy new electronic
H5 is normally stocked as part of the limited range of sizes in Costco's U.S. warehouses. Not such an oddball any longer, nor is the H6 and H7, which used to be mainly confined to Euro applications, but firmly became part of the mainstream once the Asian and American OEMs adopted them in their applications.
Good to know, but the person I replied to was in USA.
I guess this means its good to double check warranty terms anywhere before you buy.
It looks like the H5 is currently available at the Canadian COSTCO warehouses with the 48 month free replacement warranty for ~$155 CAD. It is rated for 650 CCA, so a substantial upgrade from the OEM battery's 410 CCA.
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It looks like H5 and Group 47 are different names for the same battery, correct?
Yes, Group 47 is the BCI size designation vs. H5 which I believe is the European (DIN) designation. It is the exact same battery size, regardless.
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I can't say this for sure - but when I was looking the "H" designations had the required tabs at the bottom of the lower clamp on mount type hold downs. The "Group" batteries did not. That may have been that specific brand - I don't know?
I watched an interesting video recently about people living in very cold areas of Russia where it's -70° C and colder at night in winter. They remove their batteries at the end of the day and keep them inside the house so they'll stay warm, then reinstall the warm battery in the morning. They also rig up kerosene forced air heaters to warm up the engine prior to first start. Fascinating seeing how people deal with the environments that they live in.
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just taking a subjective stab at the OP's question (I know there are more criteria and an algorithnm) I'd say 60%. What concerns me isn't simply the ability to start the engine. It's the fact that the resistance is growing higher and higher and not what the charging system was designed for (V = ir ) .
A real life application. Say your subwoofer blows and your car happens to be a Toyota, and now what should be $80 is $700. BUT, there is no aftermarket available and the resistance is different where the aftermarket is higher. Well, some go with the aftermarket even though the car's amp was not designed for it......I don't like that idea, and I don't like $700, so I get out a tube of silicone lol
A real life application. Say your subwoofer blows and your car happens to be a Toyota, and now what should be $80 is $700. BUT, there is no aftermarket available and the resistance is different where the aftermarket is higher. Well, some go with the aftermarket even though the car's amp was not designed for it......I don't like that idea, and I don't like $700, so I get out a tube of silicone lol
Often 20 hour tests are used to provide the AH rating spec. 1A for 20H = 20AH.
A faster drain will never work out at 20AH. A good rule of thumb is a healthy battery will show a 20% reduction in AH capacity when drained faster such as a 5 hour test.
Example, a 5 hour test of the 20AH battery will be 16AH. A 1 hour test, even worse.
A faster drain will never work out at 20AH. A good rule of thumb is a healthy battery will show a 20% reduction in AH capacity when drained faster such as a 5 hour test.
Example, a 5 hour test of the 20AH battery will be 16AH. A 1 hour test, even worse.
Car batteries aren't deep cycle as they pump a whole bunch of electricity into the starter all at once then should be kept topped off by the alternator. It sounds like not enough cca for the cold.
Before rural electrification (beginning post-war here), it was common for farmers to drain the motor oil and heat it on a wood stove.
I just verified that group 47 has the required tabs at the bottom for clamping purposes, and in a Kia of all things.
Common usage of the German DIN designations only came into vogue in the past few years.
Before that, an H6 was commonly referred to as a BCI Group 48/91 (and the H7 = 94R, H8 = 49, H5 = 47). The less common T6 was also listed as an acceptable substitute.
The joke about standards being so great, meaning that there should be many of them, also applies here (no, not kidding), so there's also a European system, where a 48/91/H6 is referred to as an LN3. The Japanese have their own as well.
Coming from a family history consisting of almost entirely European marques, the H6-style battery is quite familiar to me. Regardless of what they're called, they've always had the provisions to be bottom mounted (as well as venting provisions), in a cleat/clamp system, sometimes with multiple positions to accommodate different sizes, allowing a common battery compartment to fit various sizes in accordance with the size of the engine/model.
So the dinky fours would get the smaller H5, and the honking V8s get the H8, etc. Top brackets would make appearances only on the family members who strayed and bought Japanese cars.
All for a bucket of electrons.
Edit: Forgot to add, yeah, absolutely take the suggestion to check the battery tray/compartment to see if it will take a larger battery that a different-engined model may have used. For whatever marginal difference in cost, the additional capacity of an H6 might be worth it, if the car will take the larger size without the need for any mods.
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