What kind of safe do you have?

[JHZR2]

Hello,

Just curious what kind of safe or lock box ou have, and what drove your decision.

I am looking at the liberty lincoln and franklin safes, but fear that with such a large, fancy safe it makes me a target. All the same, I need to move beyond my current lock box.

Even at 700-1000 lbs, and even if I cover it or hide it in some way, when its found, it will be the single point of attack. Not sure if that is a good or bad thing...

Any thoughts?

 

[moribundman]

I got the Klepto 9000.

 

[Barkleymut]

when its found? are you in some type of military installation?

I have a 50 or so lb. box to store documents in and that is simply for fire protection so I don't have to rent from a bank that will soon be underwater.

 

[Barkleymut]

sorry, just noticed this was in the firearms section. Just put a bunch of NRA stickers all over the exterior windows of your home and light off firecrackers every 30 minutes. No Way even a crackhead will come within a mile of your place.

 

[alreadygone]

Liberty.

When our home was broken into, and firearms stolen, it was just the loose ones I'd accumulated since the safe got full. They didn't even leave a fingerprint on the safe. Anyone professional enough to be a threat to any of the better safes (that are heavy enough they can't pick them up and carry them off) will be going after a local pawn, or jewelery store,,not in yor home.

Issue of weight, if you do buy a cheaper, lighter safe, BOLT IT DOWN!! Or as one aquaintence did buy two and bolt them back to back. Just to be on the safe side, I keep the bottom storage shelves in mine full of loaded ammo. Just another couple hundred pounds.

Bob

 

[crazyoildude]

guardall makes a good safe although it can be manipulated just like many of the others.. most guardall safes have an s+g three wheel combination lock which is a reliable and secure lock but again it is not considered a manipulation proof mechanism some also come with an electronic s+g. also could be kaba maaas, ilco or a number of imported locks, the mechanical locks prove more reliable. with the knowledge and proper drill points any safe can be opened.. Did you know there are a lot of older safes that will EXPLODE if someone attempts to try to open them the wrong way? Also there are other safes that actually have tear gas canisters and other noxious gas that will be dispensed if it detects a forced entry.. Other safes have a pane of glass with a trip wire type mechanism that when drilled will release a number of re-lockers which are actually spring loaded bolt locks and there can be many of them in one door...
The ones you can purchase in the big box stores are generally not safe at all and most can be opened in under two minutes.. Cheap safes are expensive because when they lock and dont open because of a mal function a locksmith has to be called and sometimes it costs more to open them than they are worth..

 

[JHZR2]

I used to work in a large coin and precious metals dealer. We had a huge safe inside of a safe. One of the super-heavy duty units. The owner of the shop had forgotten the combination (long story regarding a deceased spouse, etc.), but had well over a million dollars worth of rare coins and a LOT of paper money (this was when paper money was starting to get hot in the collector arena). She hired a "professional" safe cracker, who won championships in Vegas... he was in within less than an hour.

My thought is that barring tear gas or equivalent, with an array of tools, a sawzall, and a care-less about damaging anything attitude, a crook could defeat a midline or better safe too... given enough time.

The issus is if youre not home and they have a lot of time... sure they could comb through all your rooms and stuff, but that has a higher risk than hiding in a basement cracking a safe, or so I think...

 

[Bill in Utah]

Since most of the safes for firearms are made in Utah and I live within 20 miles of 3 of the major players I can say they all are good.

I've seen the safes come back after trying to be opened and let me tell you they take a beating. I've spent some time in each of the factories and seen how they are built.

I'm on my 3rd safe. My first one was the normal size then I went one size up and again one size up. Best thing is make sure the door is built well and BOLT it down. Load it up with some weight on the bottom and you'll be fine. I went with a S&G electric lock and I'd never go back to the standard lock.

If you get some professionals, they will get in after a long time working at it. I saw a safe that took 1 week to get into they figured. A lot of the contents were destroyed during the process.

Also the Keypad locks can not be picked. At one of the safe mfgs here in Utah Valley, there is a guy who can pick the lock within 15 mins with his stethoscope and if it is quiet around. Asked him about the keypad ones and he said they are unpickable. There is one model of the mechanical locks that is designed that you can not hear the tumblers falling into place as each step of the turn it clicks loudly.

Also, some put a few lbs of black powder and while everything inside would be toast, so would the bad guy if he sets it off. (I've seen a safe with 3 lbs of BP in it when it went off. Quite a boom)

Take care, Bill

 

[Shannow]

I've got a horizontal trademsn's toolbox, bolted to the floor, and wuith an extra padlock location in the middle. Room for 5 rifles in a cradle along the bottom, 4 ammo boxes at the end.

It's got a piece of foam on top, which is covered with a doona, looking like a piece of furniture. (The Props that the wife and children leave on it (junk and toys) add to the furniture look.

 

[Blokey]

I bought the heaviest Browning safe I could afford.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: Blokey
I bought the heaviest Browning safe I could afford.
Made in Utah! (about 10 miles from here, ProSteel safes makes them)

I'm glad they still are in business. It was touch and go after the explosion.

 

[Fatboymoe]

I have 2 Browning safes. One is a Browning Gold that is in my great room and bolted to the floor. It is the larger of the 2. It holds all my collector firearms and has a fire rating of 100min @ 1200deg. The other is a Browning Copper that is in my garage. The firearms I use on a frequent basis are in there. The fire rating is 45min @ 1200deg. Both safes have the standard SG2 non-electronic locks.

My Skeet and Sporting clays shotguns are left in the case when they are stored. Both have Remington heating rods and Remington moisture silica gel containers that can be dried by simply plugging them in a and drying them out. The guns are warm to the touch and the silica gel needs to be regenerated every 30 days in the garage and every 60days in the house safe.

The reason I went with the Browning safes is because I have a local Gun shop that carries them and are delivered for free and are usually discounted 10 to 20% from retail prices. It is also a California law that firearms be stored in some kind of safe and at the time of purchase you have to state the brand and model of the safe the purchased firearm will be stored.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: Fatboymoe
It is also a California law that firearms be stored in some kind of safe and at the time of purchase you have to state the brand and model of the safe the purchased firearm will be stored.

You have to state this on a form?

Wow..

While I agree (and have forever) kept all my weapons in safes, it's none of their business how I secure the weapons.

Next they will ask for the combo... (for inspection purpose)

Take care, Bill

 

[Fatboymoe]

It's just another do nothing, feel good law that the California idiots in Sacramento like to pass. It also gives the ambulance chasers grounds to bring legal action against you if your firearm is stolen and used in a crime if it is not properly stored.

 

[Blokey]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Blokey
I bought the heaviest Browning safe I could afford.
Made in Utah! (about 10 miles from here, ProSteel safes makes them)

I'm glad they still are in business. It was touch and go after the explosion.


I liked Browning/ProSteels for the features, price and for the specific shelf configuration that I wanted. I bought the Platinum model because of it's heavy construction. The dealer gave me a good deal and they delivered and installed it. I run two 18" Goldenrods (36W) and it keeps the safe toasty warm.

I know nothing's perfect but I'm more worried about the Federales getting my guns

 

[dkryan]

Cannon.

Electronic lock.

I need another one, believe it or not. My wife has taken over the first one.

 

[mountravlr]

Th A.G English web site is a good resource for information about safes. I got a treadlock, and walled off the end of a long walk-in closet and used a concealed dead bolt lock in the new door. In 22 years never a problem with thieves here, with all of the target shooting that used to go on around here.

 

[GMBoy]

I've got a Heritage safe. Beautiful hunter green with gold striping and electronic lock. Have owned it for about 7 years, never an issue with the lock (will never go mechanical again) and it surpasses all the minimum requirements, etc. Before that, I had a browing safe, also nice and pretty well priced too.