Spin-on filters are slowly going away because of the environmental impact. Far easier for them to process cartridges.
What is the oil filter on my Toyota Highlander?
- Thread starter CrackyWainwright
- Start date
- Status
I bought the TOY 640 oil filter tool from the dealer, its useless to me. I do an oil change on a certain 5.7 Tundra quite often, and every single time the tool is hard to remove from the cap, I usually have to knock it off with a hammer. I put it on straight and it binds up every time. I'd say just go with OEM toyota filters and 5W30 syn and dont worry about it. I've used the tool below with no problems, it grabs the tabs on the housing with no binding up.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ota/tundra?q=oil+filter+wrench&pos=4
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ota/tundra?q=oil+filter+wrench&pos=4
What's the mileage, are you out of warranty? Stick with the 0w20 any major brand and Toyota filter. Keep the receipts. Maybe after warranty switch to a 30 weight if you're so inclined. Un American oil filter, that's funny!
Originally Posted by CR94
Somebody's too young and innocent to know American cars used cartridge oil filters long before spin-ons were invented?
That's funny because I'm almost 50 years old and I never seen a convoluted mess of an oil filter design like this one. This design looks like it will leak easily.
Somebody's too young and innocent to know American cars used cartridge oil filters long before spin-ons were invented?
That's funny because I'm almost 50 years old and I never seen a convoluted mess of an oil filter design like this one. This design looks like it will leak easily.
Easy as pie Cracky, don't sweat it.
Originally Posted by CrackyWainwright
Originally Posted by CR94
Somebody's too young and innocent to know American cars used cartridge oil filters long before spin-ons were invented?
That's funny because I'm almost 50 years old and I never seen a convoluted mess of an oil filter design like this one. This design looks like it will leak easily.
If you screw up, yes it will certainly leak. Do NOT overtighten the cap and replace the "O" ring on cap every time and do NOT cross thread it. Its that simple
Originally Posted by CR94
Somebody's too young and innocent to know American cars used cartridge oil filters long before spin-ons were invented?
That's funny because I'm almost 50 years old and I never seen a convoluted mess of an oil filter design like this one. This design looks like it will leak easily.
If you screw up, yes it will certainly leak. Do NOT overtighten the cap and replace the "O" ring on cap every time and do NOT cross thread it. Its that simple
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Cartridge oil filters are better, because you can inspect them for build quality easily seeing the pleats, unlike a canister spin-on filter. No metal waste either when you're done. And you can see if the ripped or tore after you're done with one.
It's 2018, so Owner's Manuals are in PDF filtes on the web: https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om-s/OM48E98U/pdf/OM48E98U.pdf
and https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om-s/OM15U2QRG/pdf/2015_Highlander_QRG.pdf
and https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/doc...ander/pdf/2015_Toyota_Highlander_WMG.pdf
https://www.toyota.com/owners/resources/owners-manuals/highlander/2015
Looks like 1 year or 10,000 miles whichever comes first.
Severe Duty: If you do a lot of short trips of 6 miles or less, or tow, or drive extremely hard, or you live in a desert dusty area, then change every 6,000 miles or 6 months.
0w20 is fine, especially during cooler weather in winter. If you tow anything in the summer, you could easily use walmart's Mobil1 AFE 0w30 oil, a good option for hot weather driving or year around really in the south.
Thank for the links. How did you find entire manuals online?
Cartridge oil filters are better, because you can inspect them for build quality easily seeing the pleats, unlike a canister spin-on filter. No metal waste either when you're done. And you can see if the ripped or tore after you're done with one.
It's 2018, so Owner's Manuals are in PDF filtes on the web: https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om-s/OM48E98U/pdf/OM48E98U.pdf
and https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om-s/OM15U2QRG/pdf/2015_Highlander_QRG.pdf
and https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/doc...ander/pdf/2015_Toyota_Highlander_WMG.pdf
https://www.toyota.com/owners/resources/owners-manuals/highlander/2015
Looks like 1 year or 10,000 miles whichever comes first.
Severe Duty: If you do a lot of short trips of 6 miles or less, or tow, or drive extremely hard, or you live in a desert dusty area, then change every 6,000 miles or 6 months.
0w20 is fine, especially during cooler weather in winter. If you tow anything in the summer, you could easily use walmart's Mobil1 AFE 0w30 oil, a good option for hot weather driving or year around really in the south.
Thank for the links. How did you find entire manuals online?
The OP hasn't seen anything yet. This is the oil filter used on my wifes Audi A4 quattro and on my VW GTI:
![[Linked Image]](http://i67.tinypic.com/2n7pmyt.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Originally Posted by skyactiv
The OP hasn't seen anything yet. This is the oil filter used on my wifes Audi A4 quattro and on my VW GTI:
For that car, I'd suggest the M1 + M1 filter oil change deal at AAP. They price the M1-404A at the same price as their other spin-on filters and include it in the M1 bundle
The Fram Ultra is $30
If I had one of those cars, and couldn't find the M1-404A, I'd buy the Ultra and keep it in there for 5 years!
The OP hasn't seen anything yet. This is the oil filter used on my wifes Audi A4 quattro and on my VW GTI:
For that car, I'd suggest the M1 + M1 filter oil change deal at AAP. They price the M1-404A at the same price as their other spin-on filters and include it in the M1 bundle
The Fram Ultra is $30
Originally Posted by skyactiv
The OP hasn't seen anything yet. This is the oil filter used on my wifes Audi A4 quattro and on my VW GTI:
Every Walmart in town had a shelf full of these in Fram Orange flavor for $1.00 each - for over a year
The OP hasn't seen anything yet. This is the oil filter used on my wifes Audi A4 quattro and on my VW GTI:
Every Walmart in town had a shelf full of these in Fram Orange flavor for $1.00 each - for over a year
Originally Posted by danez_yoda
the dealerships tend to overtighten the heck out of them. You onoy need hand tight on these. Once they bottom out STOP.
The torque is written on the cap...but I guess 25 Nm is in the too hard basket.
the dealerships tend to overtighten the heck out of them. You onoy need hand tight on these. Once they bottom out STOP.
The torque is written on the cap...but I guess 25 Nm is in the too hard basket.
Originally Posted by Malo83
Noticed he put the drain plug back in before pulling the filter? every oil change i've done after it's drained i'll pull the filter and it will drain more oil, could the filter hold some sort of vacuum keeping some oil from draining?
Change the filter first, then drain the oil. Oil from the oil filter housing drains that way. Usually some sort of anti drain back valve keeps oil in the filter housing.
Noticed he put the drain plug back in before pulling the filter? every oil change i've done after it's drained i'll pull the filter and it will drain more oil, could the filter hold some sort of vacuum keeping some oil from draining?
Change the filter first, then drain the oil. Oil from the oil filter housing drains that way. Usually some sort of anti drain back valve keeps oil in the filter housing.
My Toyota cartridge filter is only slightly more bother to replace than a spin-on would be, IF in the same confoundedly inconvenient location. Being able to observe the condition of the media easily before and after use is a big plus.
They are easy change as long as the correct tool is used. Use the plastic drain tool to drain the oil into the container. Once draining is complete, use the AST Tool to loosen. Change the o-ring and element. Re-install and torque to 18 ft-lbs (or until the o-ring is just snug). Install a new o-ring on the drainage section, re-install the small cap. Done.
Originally Posted by Malo83
Noticed he put the drain plug back in before pulling the filter? every oil change i've done after it's drained i'll pull the filter and it will drain more oil, could the filter hold some sort of vacuum keeping some oil from draining?
Anti drain back valve in the oil filter...
Noticed he put the drain plug back in before pulling the filter? every oil change i've done after it's drained i'll pull the filter and it will drain more oil, could the filter hold some sort of vacuum keeping some oil from draining?
Anti drain back valve in the oil filter...
Originally Posted by CrackyWainwright
Thank for the links. How did you find entire manuals online?
google.com and put the following text in the search:
2015 toyota highlander owners manual site:toyota.com
....which tells it to look exclusively on the toyota.com official site. Then it comes up as the first link you see. I try to avoid the suspicious owners manual sites that sometimes pop up on a search due to virus risk. Toyota.com or any car maker's official website is probabably safe though.
Thank for the links. How did you find entire manuals online?
google.com and put the following text in the search:
2015 toyota highlander owners manual site:toyota.com
....which tells it to look exclusively on the toyota.com official site. Then it comes up as the first link you see. I try to avoid the suspicious owners manual sites that sometimes pop up on a search due to virus risk. Toyota.com or any car maker's official website is probabably safe though.
Last edited:
Thanks, Oil Film Movies. I appreciate it. Now I'm trying to figure out "Nm" in torque specs for re-installing that oil filter housing. That's something metric, I think, instead of the foot pounds that we're all familiar with here in Donald Trump's America!
Last edited:
Originally Posted by CrackyWainwright
... Now I'm trying to figure out "Nm" in torque specs for re-installing that oil filter housing. ...
1 ft-lb=1.356 N-m, approximately, or roughly a 3:4 ratio.
... Now I'm trying to figure out "Nm" in torque specs for re-installing that oil filter housing. ...
1 ft-lb=1.356 N-m, approximately, or roughly a 3:4 ratio.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
