what is the best way to get all old old out?
- Thread starter mozart
- Start date
- Status
Giant waste. Bit of a ?; Since it was lubricating the engine 5 minutes before you decided to change it, what happened to suddenly make it unworthy? Just heat to full temp prior to draining. Drain and fill.
Last edited:
Not really, but I have heard of someone who dumps a quart of clean oil through right after the old oil has drained well.
I suppose you could fill with new oil, run for a few minutes then drain that out. But that would be silly, right?
I say change it more frequently, that's prolly the best solution to the cleanest engine.
I suppose you could fill with new oil, run for a few minutes then drain that out. But that would be silly, right?
I say change it more frequently, that's prolly the best solution to the cleanest engine.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Originally Posted By: hate2work
I say change it more frequently, that's prolly the best solution to the cleanest engine.
^^2nd
I say change it more frequently, that's prolly the best solution to the cleanest engine.
^^2nd
If the objective is to get out the last remnants of the old oil then flushing with new oil is what you do, but you don't need to fill the sump. One quart is usually enough to cover the oil pick-up spout. Start the engine, idle it for a minute or so then drain.
Full engine teardown and clean all the components in a solvent tank......just kidding!
A quick drive, and let it drain for an hour or two. You CAN park on an angle to get the last little bit out of the pan, but its overkill. Your engine will never know the difference. There will always be oil trapped in the galleys and pockets in the head. No way around it.
A quick drive, and let it drain for an hour or two. You CAN park on an angle to get the last little bit out of the pan, but its overkill. Your engine will never know the difference. There will always be oil trapped in the galleys and pockets in the head. No way around it.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If the objective is to get out the last remnants of the old oil then flushing with new oil is what you do, but you don't need to fill the sump. One quart is usually enough to cover the oil pick-up spout. Start the engine, idle it for a minute or so then drain.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm thinking I'd put in more than a single quart if I was going to use it to rinse out the old oil. I'd be worried that it would suck air and run dry. I'd prolly use half the total fill of the sump.
Then again, I'd never do it, I'd just change it more often.
If the objective is to get out the last remnants of the old oil then flushing with new oil is what you do, but you don't need to fill the sump. One quart is usually enough to cover the oil pick-up spout. Start the engine, idle it for a minute or so then drain.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm thinking I'd put in more than a single quart if I was going to use it to rinse out the old oil. I'd be worried that it would suck air and run dry. I'd prolly use half the total fill of the sump.
Then again, I'd never do it, I'd just change it more often.
even draining it hot seems bad, your best bet is to probably let it sit overnight and then drain it hours later without the engine being run.... this would give it the best chance to run down to the sump, once its there its easy to get out, cold or hot, angle or not........
but I'm not one of those people who sit there letting it drain until it barely dribbles out... some people even wait an hour or two with the drain plug out........ the actual amount of oil that comes out is not a lot at all.... but this into perspective with all the oil laying inside the engine thats not in the sump, and your splitting hairs......
your waisting time trying to get out an ounce of oil when there is a half quart still in the engine(who really knows how much, and that would depend on the engine construction..... some engines might hold more) that doesn't drain down to the sump...
I took the heads off of one of my old SHO engines, MONTHS after I pulled it, and there was still oil pooled up in the heads when I pulled the valve covers
but I'm not one of those people who sit there letting it drain until it barely dribbles out... some people even wait an hour or two with the drain plug out........ the actual amount of oil that comes out is not a lot at all.... but this into perspective with all the oil laying inside the engine thats not in the sump, and your splitting hairs......
your waisting time trying to get out an ounce of oil when there is a half quart still in the engine(who really knows how much, and that would depend on the engine construction..... some engines might hold more) that doesn't drain down to the sump...
I took the heads off of one of my old SHO engines, MONTHS after I pulled it, and there was still oil pooled up in the heads when I pulled the valve covers
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If the objective is to get out the last remnants of the old oil then flushing with new oil is what you do, but you don't need to fill the sump. One quart is usually enough to cover the oil pick-up spout. Start the engine, idle it for a minute or so then drain.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm thinking I'd put in more than a single quart if I was going to use it to rinse out the old oil. I'd be worried that it would suck air and run dry. I'd prolly use half the total fill of the sump.
Then again, I'd never do it, I'd just change it more often.
If you're car has an have an oil pressure gauge then there's little guessing involved. I can tell you from experience a pint of oil in a 4 quart sump is enough to keep the pump pick-up submerged. Assuming you don't have a pressure gauge then one quart or 25% of the sump volume provides little change of sucking air.
Hey, you asked.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If the objective is to get out the last remnants of the old oil then flushing with new oil is what you do, but you don't need to fill the sump. One quart is usually enough to cover the oil pick-up spout. Start the engine, idle it for a minute or so then drain.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm thinking I'd put in more than a single quart if I was going to use it to rinse out the old oil. I'd be worried that it would suck air and run dry. I'd prolly use half the total fill of the sump.
Then again, I'd never do it, I'd just change it more often.
If you're car has an have an oil pressure gauge then there's little guessing involved. I can tell you from experience a pint of oil in a 4 quart sump is enough to keep the pump pick-up submerged. Assuming you don't have a pressure gauge then one quart or 25% of the sump volume provides little change of sucking air.
Hey, you asked.
Before draining the engine and the oil level is a little low. Add a can of engine flush such as Amsoil or other quality flush. Run for 15-20 minutes at fast idle and drain, change filter, and that's about as good as you can get.
Originally Posted By: mozart
For an oil change if I want the engine to be spotless on the inside, is there a known technique?
(run it for 1 hour before change, tilt the car at an angle, flush with new oil, etc)
Thanks
I have to ask, what exactly are your intentions, and what exactly is your goal?
Do you simply want your engine to remain spotless so that 100k or 200k miles down the road you can open it up and admire its cleanliness? Are you trying to keep it spotless b/c you feel that would be better for the engine?
Let us know more in on what you're trying to achieve and we can see about helping you out more.
If you just want it to be clean, then use a trusted synthetic oil and follow the OCI specified by your manufacturer.
I can't comment first hand, but there have been a lot of people who have made the claim that their engine was spotless (not even tarnish) and all they've used is M1. I can't comment first hand b/c my current oil fill is the first time i've used M1, so I have no experience with it to comment on its cleanliness. But I'd feel confident using M1, PP, SynPower, or just about any other trusted synthetic oil, that my engine was being kept clean.
Now if you're worried about any oil remaining in there, and that oil wearing out and causing sludge or other issues. Don't worry, the small amount of oil left in the engine after a drain isn't going to harm your engine. Don't forget the oil doesn't wear out, it's the additives, (or that's the claim by companies selling recycled oil, and the UOAs with them have been respectable). So the oil is fine, and the additives are being replenished by the large amount of fresh oil being put in there. So that small amount of left over oil is not going to cause any issues with your engine, if it was then oil related problems would be MUCH more common b/c most people don't bother doing a complete drain when changing the oil. I mean ask yourself this, are all the dealerships and quickie oil change places letting the oil drain for extended periods of time to make sure it all gets out, or do they pull the plug let it drain till it's just a trickle, and replace the drain bolt?
Now, if for some reason you did want to get as much oil out of the vehicle as possible, though I'm still not sure why, then I would take two pronged approach. First I'd warm the engine and do an extended drain as others have mentioned. I'd then let the vehicle sit for a while (overnight, a few days, I don't know, but a significant enough period of time) then I'd use one of those oil extractors that you stick down the dip stick tube and use that to suck up any left over oil that's drained back down.
Now I feel that is overkill, and completely unnecessary, but again I'm not sure what your ultimately trying to do, so I just wanted to mention this b/c it *might* get more oil out then an extended drain alone. But as others have mentioned their may still be pools of oil elsewhere that isn't going to drain down even after an extended period of time.
Sorry for the long winded reply, but let us know more of what you want to do and we'll try to help you achieve it
For an oil change if I want the engine to be spotless on the inside, is there a known technique?
(run it for 1 hour before change, tilt the car at an angle, flush with new oil, etc)
Thanks
I have to ask, what exactly are your intentions, and what exactly is your goal?
Do you simply want your engine to remain spotless so that 100k or 200k miles down the road you can open it up and admire its cleanliness? Are you trying to keep it spotless b/c you feel that would be better for the engine?
Let us know more in on what you're trying to achieve and we can see about helping you out more.
If you just want it to be clean, then use a trusted synthetic oil and follow the OCI specified by your manufacturer.
I can't comment first hand, but there have been a lot of people who have made the claim that their engine was spotless (not even tarnish) and all they've used is M1. I can't comment first hand b/c my current oil fill is the first time i've used M1, so I have no experience with it to comment on its cleanliness. But I'd feel confident using M1, PP, SynPower, or just about any other trusted synthetic oil, that my engine was being kept clean.
Now if you're worried about any oil remaining in there, and that oil wearing out and causing sludge or other issues. Don't worry, the small amount of oil left in the engine after a drain isn't going to harm your engine. Don't forget the oil doesn't wear out, it's the additives, (or that's the claim by companies selling recycled oil, and the UOAs with them have been respectable). So the oil is fine, and the additives are being replenished by the large amount of fresh oil being put in there. So that small amount of left over oil is not going to cause any issues with your engine, if it was then oil related problems would be MUCH more common b/c most people don't bother doing a complete drain when changing the oil. I mean ask yourself this, are all the dealerships and quickie oil change places letting the oil drain for extended periods of time to make sure it all gets out, or do they pull the plug let it drain till it's just a trickle, and replace the drain bolt?
Now, if for some reason you did want to get as much oil out of the vehicle as possible, though I'm still not sure why, then I would take two pronged approach. First I'd warm the engine and do an extended drain as others have mentioned. I'd then let the vehicle sit for a while (overnight, a few days, I don't know, but a significant enough period of time) then I'd use one of those oil extractors that you stick down the dip stick tube and use that to suck up any left over oil that's drained back down.
Now I feel that is overkill, and completely unnecessary, but again I'm not sure what your ultimately trying to do, so I just wanted to mention this b/c it *might* get more oil out then an extended drain alone. But as others have mentioned their may still be pools of oil elsewhere that isn't going to drain down even after an extended period of time.
Sorry for the long winded reply, but let us know more of what you want to do and we'll try to help you achieve it
BG products makes a machine that gets the last tiny bit of oil out of the engine:
http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html
http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
If the objective is to get out the last remnants of the old oil then flushing with new oil is what you do, but you don't need to fill the sump. One quart is usually enough to cover the oil pick-up spout. Start the engine, idle it for a minute or so then drain.
Are you saying after the oil is drained, pour a qt into it, start the engine idle it for a minute or so then drain the qt? I'd be more worried doing that than leaving any residual oil inside the engine from changing it. I've heard of people allowing the oil to drain over night, and/or pouring a qt of fresh oil through the engine after draining it. I change my oil more frequently, so it doesn't get as dirty as someone doing extended drains. JMO
If the objective is to get out the last remnants of the old oil then flushing with new oil is what you do, but you don't need to fill the sump. One quart is usually enough to cover the oil pick-up spout. Start the engine, idle it for a minute or so then drain.
Are you saying after the oil is drained, pour a qt into it, start the engine idle it for a minute or so then drain the qt? I'd be more worried doing that than leaving any residual oil inside the engine from changing it. I've heard of people allowing the oil to drain over night, and/or pouring a qt of fresh oil through the engine after draining it. I change my oil more frequently, so it doesn't get as dirty as someone doing extended drains. JMO
Originally Posted By: mozart
if I want the engine to be spotless on the inside, is there a known technique?
No...it is a internal combustion engine. It has neve been intended to be spotless on the inside. If you want to keep it "clean". Use a good off the shelf synthetic oil like Pennzoil Platinum and a factory filter and change the oil every 5000 miles. But unless you disassemble it you won't get 100% of the oil out.
if I want the engine to be spotless on the inside, is there a known technique?
No...it is a internal combustion engine. It has neve been intended to be spotless on the inside. If you want to keep it "clean". Use a good off the shelf synthetic oil like Pennzoil Platinum and a factory filter and change the oil every 5000 miles. But unless you disassemble it you won't get 100% of the oil out.
YOu have a substantial amount of oil in the passages, galleys, etc.
This will never drain all the way.
All you can do is to wait as long as you can bear when draining the oil.
But it's OK. A quick drain or a prolonged drain won;t make any real difference in the real world.
This will never drain all the way.
All you can do is to wait as long as you can bear when draining the oil.
But it's OK. A quick drain or a prolonged drain won;t make any real difference in the real world.
Be SURE to tip the car upside down!
Your Rav and Fit have overhead valve gear. This sort of head invariably traps a few cups of OLD, NASTY, DIRTY oil in the nooks and crannies (what, pray-tell is a 'cranny?') in and around the springs/lifters.
Your Rav and Fit have overhead valve gear. This sort of head invariably traps a few cups of OLD, NASTY, DIRTY oil in the nooks and crannies (what, pray-tell is a 'cranny?') in and around the springs/lifters.
I crank the engine after it's drained and the filter is off. It always spits out a nice amount of oil. A lot stays behind, sure. This is another reason I prefer shorter changes of dino oil rather than leave a quart of burned-out synth oil in there.
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I crank the engine after it's drained and the filter is off. It always spits out a nice amount of oil. A lot stays behind, sure. This is another reason I prefer shorter changes of dino oil rather than leave a quart of burned-out synth oil in there.
Do what? You crank the engine while you have NO OIL and NO FILTER?
Maybe I misunderstand, but that sounds very destructive.
If I was worried about it I would do normal oil changes more often. And if I was REALLY worried about it I would run an analysis EVERY OCI.
I crank the engine after it's drained and the filter is off. It always spits out a nice amount of oil. A lot stays behind, sure. This is another reason I prefer shorter changes of dino oil rather than leave a quart of burned-out synth oil in there.
Do what? You crank the engine while you have NO OIL and NO FILTER?
Maybe I misunderstand, but that sounds very destructive.
If I was worried about it I would do normal oil changes more often. And if I was REALLY worried about it I would run an analysis EVERY OCI.
Not that I agree with it but crank and start are two different things.
Compressed air in the filler seems like it would do a good job.
Compressed air in the filler seems like it would do a good job.
- Status
Similar threads
