what is the best way to get all old old out?

[Kaboomba]

Originally Posted By: LargeCarManX2
Before draining the engine and the oil level is a little low. Add a can of engine flush such as Amsoil or other quality flush. Run for 15-20 minutes at fast idle and drain, change filter, and that's about as good as you can get.


+1M my friend

LubeGard makes an engine flush, too. Good stuff.

FACT: oil add packs suspend junk that you wanna drain out
FACT: when oil suspends the junk, the engine does not have the junk
FACT: When you add new oil, you add new capacity to hold junk
FACT: If you have a reasonable OCI, you will always have enough capacity to hold junk

CONCLUSION: Use good oil. Change often enough. Drain Fill Go.

Best

K

 

[JCCADILLACMOBILE]

Originally Posted By: shokhead
Even the underground water?


-Everything.-

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

i've been known to jack up the right side a little higher to tilt the drain so even more comes out, and leave it for an hour lol hot

 

[ted s]

i total dis-assemble the motor every 5 miles.

 

[10bears]

Originally Posted By: mozart
For an oil change if I want the engine to be spotless on the inside, is there a known technique?

(run it for 1 hour before change, tilt the car at an angle, flush with new oil, etc)

Thanks


Mozart,

I agree with most responses above that it generally isn't worth worrying about.

I fixed a probable oil contamination problem on a Gen II GM 3800 V6 recently and had the oil pan off, too.

I noticed on that engine that the drain plug was up the side of the pan far enough that upon dropping the "drained" oil pan, I found over half a quart of oil in the pan.

So after the job, I wanted to do some accelerated OCI's to make sure I get any remnants of coolant flushed out.

How to do that with over a half quart still in the oil pan? Well, it's probably not a big deal... guess the OCD took over...

I used a tubing bender and shaped a J hook out of 5/16" copper tubing. Yeah, ya' know where I'm goin'...

Duct taped it into an old shop vac...

The neat part is, I can tell when it's sucking oil and when it's done. The J hook gets hot to the touch when the hot oil is going through it.

After 3 accelerated OCI's of Valvo 10w30 dino oil I had layin' around, I did the same thing before the Pennz Platinum... excuse being I wanted less of the Valvo diluting the Pennz.

Was any of the above worth the time? OMG, YES!

Seriously, probably not, but it made an amusing mess of the shop vac and hose! Had to spring clamp the hose up high and run the vac for 10 minutes to stop it from drooling from every seam...

Larry S
10*B

 

[calvinnnnnnnnn]

my last oil change, it actually took in 4 quarts when it normally takes 3.75.

I tilted my driverside and load of oil came out, then i lifted only the front and more oil came out. And this was the first time i had taken off the oil filter where no oil came out.

After pouring in 4 quarts, the oil on the dipstick was almost transparent because majority of the old oil came out!

 

[pavelow]

Wow....some really scary answers here. lol

I simply get whatever it is that I'm changing the oil on up to normal operating temp and then simply drain the oil out. I then let it cool a little so I don't burn myself getting the filter off. No need to let it sit overnight with the plug out....just think of all the extra moisture you are letting into the oil pan with that plug out all night. lol

 

[demarpaint]

Make sure you change the filter. A filter can hold up to 1 qt or more of dirty oil. So even after going through all the bother to get all the dirty oil out, don't use the old filter again. It often amazes me on the lengths we'll go through to get as much oil out as possible and then reuse a dirty filter. I read all the stories about reusing filters, even if you drain the filter it is still dirty.

JMO

 

[steve20]

if I let mine drain overnight, sure as sh__, my wife would for some ungodly reason, use my car the next morning before oil was put back in-it would HAVE to happen


Steve

 

[Bill in Utah]

What I'd do is;

1. Drain the oil and change the filter.

2. Put in "cheap" oil (any conventional oil since its garbage (make sure its a API SM GF4 oil since that is the worst) and new filter.

3. Start the engine and idle for 5 minutes.

4. Drain the oil and change the filter.

5. Since you used "cheap" oil put in some good syn and new filter.

6. Start the engine and idle for 5 minutes.

7. Drain the oil and change the filter.

8. Now put in some REAL syn oil and the most expensive filter.

9. Change every 2-3k (the sooner the better) for a real clean engine.

That should work. Never mind the clueless people who are driving their vehicles hundreds of thousands of miles using the [censored] they call conventional motor oil and any filter for those insane OCIs (like 5k miles... What fools!)

Take care, bill

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
What I'd do is;

1. Drain the oil and change the filter.

2. Put in "cheap" oil (any conventional oil since its garbage (make sure its a API SM GF4 oil since that is the worst) and new filter.

3. Start the engine and idle for 5 minutes.

4. Drain the oil and change the filter.

5. Since you used "cheap" oil put in some good syn and new filter.

6. Start the engine and idle for 5 minutes.

7. Drain the oil and change the filter.

8. Now put in some REAL syn oil and the most expensive filter.

9. Change every 2-3k (the sooner the better) for a real clean engine.

That should work. Never mind the clueless people who are driving their vehicles hundreds of thousands of miles using the [censored] they call conventional motor oil and any filter for those insane OCIs (like 5k miles... What fools!)

Take care, bill

EPIC post

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
What I'd do is;

1. Drain the oil and change the filter.

2. Put in "cheap" oil (any conventional oil since its garbage (make sure its a API SM GF4 oil since that is the worst) and new filter.

3. Start the engine and idle for 5 minutes.

4. Drain the oil and change the filter.

5. Since you used "cheap" oil put in some good syn and new filter.

6. Start the engine and idle for 5 minutes.

7. Drain the oil and change the filter.

8. Now put in some REAL syn oil and the most expensive filter.

9. Change every 2-3k (the sooner the better) for a real clean engine.

That should work. Never mind the clueless people who are driving their vehicles hundreds of thousands of miles using the [censored] they call conventional motor oil and any filter for those insane OCIs (like 5k miles... What fools!)

Take care, bill

EPIC post

+1

Bill I love the way you tell it like you see it. No pulling punches, straight up and to the point.

 

[Leo]

In the past with ultra dirty oil, I've drained the sump, then refilled with approx 1.5L of new oil. I let the engine idle for about 20 sec, as this is enough time for the oil galleries to be refreshed with new oil. This way all the old oil should drain to the sump, and the brand new stuff in the galleries. If you let it idle too long, the old and new will mix in the sump...

 

[Rumble]

In biblical times, there was concern about putting new wine in an old skin (by the prophet Bob Is The Grape Guy?).

 

[c3po]

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/excellent-way-to-flush-out-more-old-oil.19034/

 

[shpankey]

I always drain from a really warmed up car (not hot though) and after a good draining period, I pour a quarter quart of fresh oil in and let it push the majority of the old oil out. I don't car about wasting such a small amount.

 

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: mozart
For an oil change if I want the engine to be spotless on the inside, is there a known technique?

(run it for 1 hour before change, tilt the car at an angle, flush with new oil, etc)

Thanks
There is no reason to do so.

 

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
What I'd do is;

1. Drain the oil and change the filter.

2. Put in "cheap" oil (any conventional oil since its garbage (make sure its a API SM GF4 oil since that is the worst) and new filter.

3. Start the engine and idle for 5 minutes.

4. Drain the oil and change the filter.

5. Since you used "cheap" oil put in some good syn and new filter.

6. Start the engine and idle for 5 minutes.

7. Drain the oil and change the filter.

8. Now put in some REAL syn oil and the most expensive filter.

9. Change every 2-3k (the sooner the better) for a real clean engine.

That should work. Never mind the clueless people who are driving their vehicles hundreds of thousands of miles using the [censored] they call conventional motor oil and any filter for those insane OCIs (like 5k miles... What fools!)

Take care, bill

MASTER

 

[10bears]

+1

I can find my shop vac pretty quick now... though it takes some tracking skills to decide which "blood trail" to follow...

L

 

[Geonerd]

One more opinion can't hurt... (Can it?

)

Plan #1
Buy an extra 4~5 quarts of whatever oil you're using and use it to flush the engine after dumping the old stuff. SAVE this cleaning oil for future use and/or use it to top off the engine as needed. If you're REALLY retentive, repeat with a second batch of Brand New Oil.

Plan #2
Pull the plugs, disable the injectors, and crank the engine until the oiling system is dry. With no compression to load the bearings and no fuel being dumped into the cylinders, wear and tear will be insignificant. Install plug, add oil, crank some more to prime the system. Replace plugs, etc. and you're good to go.