What is the absolute best mainstream full synthetic oil?

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I ask because I have a Ford vehicle with the dreaded 3.5 Duratec V6 water pump. I know some may think this is splitting hairs but in my case I beg to differ. Since I got it at just 2,000 miles, I drained the Motorcraft blend at 4,500 miles and put in Supertech Advanced Full Synthetic and was intending to change it every 7,000 miles but have moved down to 6,000.

Thing is, the higher the mileage goes on the car, the more anxious I get about the water pump failing. I'm at 11,800 miles now and I am deciding to go with the best full synthetic here on out there to do everything I can to help the water pump, not just Supertech. Yes, I am also flushing the coolant, I am about to do my first flush and will then do the flush annually for the rest of the car's life.

My understanding is that Mobile One Advanced Full Synthetic is generally considered the best available oil. How true is this? What other oils are better, and by how much and how much do they cost?

High Performance Lubricants oil.

 
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You can easily determine the very best oil through this very simple test.

First you need to select oil samples, let’s say the top 30 selling products. Since you want your results to be statistically significant you’ll want to test these oils in a variety of engines, let’s say the top 30 selling engines, and assign 10 engines for each oil. Assuming some engines will drop out of the test for some reason you’ll want to increase the engines by 10%, so let’s say an even 10,000 engines.

Next, disassemble all of the engines and carefully measure them for wear, clearances, varnish, piston deposits, and sludge, and then reassemble the engines and add the oil,

Next run each of the cars for 10,000 mile OCIs with identical mixed driving environments, including speeds, terrains, idling time, ambient temperatures, and fuel quality.

Finally, disassemble all of the engines and re-measure them for wear, clearances, varnish, piston deposits, and sludge. Then feed all of the data into a computer and have it rank the oils.

The oil at the top of the list is the very best!

Oh, and since oil formulations and engine designs change on a regular basis, be sure to repeat this test before each oil change.

Alternatively, you can buy an oil that is certified to meet all of the specifications set by your engine manufacturer, but that’s no fun.
Tearing the new engines down and irradiating the parts you want to measure wear on works better ... saves all that time of tearing them down and doing all those measurements a second time. 😄
 
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You can easily determine the very best oil through this very simple test.

First you need to select oil samples, let’s say the top 30 selling products. Since you want your results to be statistically significant you’ll want to test these oils in a variety of engines, let’s say the top 30 selling engines, and assign 10 engines for each oil. Assuming some engines will drop out of the test for some reason you’ll want to increase the engines by 10%, so let’s say an even 10,000 engines.

Next, disassemble all of the engines and carefully measure them for wear, clearances, varnish, piston deposits, and sludge, and then reassemble the engines and add the oil,

Next run each of the cars for 10,000 mile OCIs with identical mixed driving environments, including speeds, terrains, idling time, ambient temperatures, and fuel quality.

Finally, disassemble all of the engines and re-measure them for wear, clearances, varnish, piston deposits, and sludge. Then feed all of the data into a computer and have it rank the oils.

The oil at the top of the list is the very best!

Oh, and since oil formulations and engine designs change on a regular basis, be sure to repeat this test before each oil change.

Alternatively, you can buy an oil that is certified to meet all of the specifications set by your engine manufacturer, but that’s no fun.
Well said Tom. #JerseyStrong
 
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What would e the cost of a water pump replacement? It would seem that just replacing the pump at a designated interval prior to failure would be more cost efficient and less worrisome than multiple coolant flushes and obsessing over what type of oil. You can nurse the water pump along in hopes of making it last or you can nurse your fluids along. Your pick.
 
What would e the cost of a water pump replacement? It would seem that just replacing the pump at a designated interval prior to failure would be more cost efficient and less worrisome than multiple coolant flushes and obsessing over what type of oil. You can nurse the water pump along in hopes of making it last or you can nurse your fluids along. Your pick.
If it is anything like the 3.7L replacing the water pump is a massive undertaking. Ford really screwed their customers with that design.
 
About $2500 to replace the water pump chains tensioners and guides
Good god! I rebuilt my 4Runner and didn't spend that much (external parts: exhaust, suspension (springs, shocks, tie rod ends, lower rear control arms), radiator, drive shaft, brakes, rear axle seals (laborious job), tires, timing kit, valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, complete lube & filter changes, etc).
 
Good god! I rebuilt my 4Runner and didn't spend that much (external parts: exhaust, suspension (springs, shocks, tie rod ends, lower rear control arms), radiator, drive shaft, brakes, rear axle seals (laborious job), tires, timing kit, valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, complete lube & filter changes, etc).
This job is pretty labor intensive. Unfortunately..
 
I toured HPL's facility in Manteno, Illinois today and after having an in-depth conversation with one of their chemists, I will have a hard time recommending any other lubricant products in the future. Other products from the likes of Mobil, SOPUS, and Valvoline are not bad by any means but I am convinced that HPL in fact offers THE BEST 👍
 
only a dumb ass would buy this ford desighn anyway. its this simple
I’ve owned 2 never had any issue at all with either engine.

It’s not an engine I’d want to try to take to 300k without planning on doing the repair. In all reality though if you do the pump and chains at 150k you’re not that far off dollar wise compared to doing two sets of timing belts and water pumps on a Honda 3.5.
 
It’s not an engine I’d want to try to take to 300k without planning on doing the repair. In all reality though if you do the pump and chains at 150k you’re not that far off dollar wise compared to doing two sets of timing belts and water pumps on a Honda 3.5.
How often does the Honda require that maintenance?
 
only a dumb ass would buy this ford desighn anyway. its this simple
I bought mine in 2015 with 85,000 miles on it, I didn't know it had an internal water pump, I did some research on it, but that never came up.. but I have 113 on it now.. never did nothing to it until recently!! I just recently had a tune-up on it brand new Motorcraft coil packs, radiator drain & fill still got the dex clone in there. I Drained and refill transmission. I had the window motor replaced, it was making noise, shocks, struts and tires, Stabilizer links brand new belts and tensioner. I will probably do it soon.. Just for peace of mind.. but it's always been a good car. No issues!!!
 
How often does the Honda require that maintenance?
90k so if you’re past 200k on both the money is gonna be similar. The wife’s Aunt had an MKT that she loved so they paid for a water pump/timing chain job at the Ford dealership when the vehicle had about 170k. It ran them a little over 2500.

When we were test driving an Odyssey we were told to expect about 1500 for the timing belt/water pump job by the Honda dealership.
 
Good god! I rebuilt my 4Runner and didn't spend that much (external parts: exhaust, suspension (springs, shocks, tie rod ends, lower rear control arms), radiator, drive shaft, brakes, rear axle seals (laborious job), tires, timing kit, valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, complete lube & filter changes, etc).
Did you pay someone else to do all the work or did you do it yourself?

When I fixed the cooling system issues, redid the brake system and suspension on an XJ I flipped I had $1100 in parts into it. I’d easily have had $1500 in labor into it if I was paying a shop to do the job.

It’s about a 12 hour job to do the water pump and timing chains on these FWD duratech rigs. The parts aren’t bad if you’re willing to tackle it yourself. If not it’s really best to just trade it or sell it when the issue arises if you don’t have some sort of emotional attachment to the vehicle.
 
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