What do you think?

Status
Not open for further replies.
They claim ADBV valves don't work and do not build a filter with one.Maybe they have not found a way to build one properly into the unit.IMO just trying to reinvent the mouse trap and make a buck.

Quote:
) Why don’t you have an Anti Drain back Valve? Many filters have a rubber flap over the intake holes that is an attempt to keep oil in the filter and minimize the time it takes to fill the filter when you start the engine (they call it an anti-drain back valve). A test you can perform to see how well this "valve" works is to fill a filter with oil, plug the large center spin on hole with a bolt, lay it on it's side and then see how long it takes for the oil to drain past the rubber flap. We have found (and have read other published tests) that the filter eventually ends up with the same amount of oil in it as if it didn't have the flap, it just takes longer to drain out. If the flap worked as planned it would be beneficial to have the extra oil in the filter at startup. On the other hand, that flap covering the intake holes is one more obstacle the oil has to get by to get through the filter and back to the motor.... something to think about


Quality filters are just to cheap to mess around with something like this.
 
Thats a stupid test of an ADBV. It doesnt simulate the engine environment whatsoever. At the very LEAST to test the valve you would thread say a 2'L iron (nat gas) pipe into an already wet filter and have the pipe filled with warm>hot oil. Leave the unit vertical and see how much drains out. Retaining the oil between the pump and the filter will help with pump prime and then, the more you can keep in the galleries the better.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: yaris0128
Id stick with Purolator. You already know its a good filter so why change a good thing.

+1 Its been said before...the PureOne gives the best bang for the buck...why change a good thing.

PureOne's are my favorite for middle OCI's (7,500 +/-).

Currently using a Mobil 1EP filter for a longer OCI.
__________________________________________
2003 Ford Focus SE (2.3L) / 88K
Mobil 1 5w20EP / OCI: 1 year or 10K +/-
Mobil 1 EP filter
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: EAGLE777
Pricey, but is it any good?

IMO, no good--too porous to catch fine abrasives.

I'd love the general idea if it had a really good synthetic/cellulose filter element. Then you could take it off the engine for service. Might be easier to deal with than a cartridge filter, and less wastful than a disposable spin-on.
 
By the way, in my own tests of ADBVs, they can hold back oil for months. At least on the MC and P1s I mostly use. Sometimes when I change the filter I put it in a coffee can with the opening facing down, and sometimes I come back months later and find that there is still plenty of oil in the filter. That's why I always cut open my filters over a drain pan.
 
Why did this company feel the need to re-invent the mousetrap? Oil filters are a commodity item that sell for a few dollars and are "common as muck" as our friends across the pond like to say. I don't see the need for some trick filter (at a trick price) when a $3.78 Motorcraft will get my car WAY more miles than I will ever own it.

This goes for the uber-expensive AMSOIL, K&N, and M1 filters as well, but before the legions of fans get all hyper-active, I'm not knocking those filters...they're excellent if you NEED them, but I think this trufilter is a solution in search of a problem.
 
45 micron filtering ... only good for race cars that get oil changed before every race IMO. They are inconsistent with their performance specs. Some places say 30 and 45 microns .... other places say .30 and .45 microns. Obviously it can't be a partial micron filtering efficiency. High performance paper filters are doing 99.9% @ 20 microns ... something no mess filter could ever do.

They claim they flow "5 times better than paper filters" ... but most paper filters don't have that much pressure drop either, and certainly not nearly enough to cause any bypass action under normal circumstances unless it was really plugged up.
 
I like how they plagiarized Russ Knize, beloved patron Saint of Cutting Filters Open, by using his picture of cut filters:

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

On another note: I am not convinced that a single or even multiple-layer metal mesh-type filter is a wise approach to filtration on daily drivers.
 
I agree with others who say they are trying to get a business going and make money. It is nothing new, didn't the very early oil filters use mesh, or was it old socks? It's too coarse, and if made fine, won't work and clog, just like they found out before and started looking for better ways. IMHO
 
They just cost too much. I don't think the average user could recover his costs over 10 years. It might not fit the next car you buy. If they offered a lifetime exchange policy ..for some nominal fee ..then it would be a lifetime investment that may work out.

If it filters to 40um ..then I don't think it's so bad. I'd like to see a battery of UOA's with it in use @ 1000mile increments to track insolubles. It would also be nice if the vehicle had a series of fairly stable UOA's to compare and see if the noise level goes up.
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
but I think this trufilter is a solution in search of a problem.
+1 I thought you said your tinfoil hat wasn't working.
grin2.gif


As others have said, stick with Purolator,(P1,Classic) or Wix and fugetaboutit!
 
I've been using a Scott's Stainless Steel CNC'd oil filter on my BMW motorcycle for 112,000 miles. It's 30micron screen with a rare earth magnet built in. The OEM filters are $26.00. I paid somewhere around $150 with shipping, tax. You can clean it with air and "409" surface cleaner, or "Dawn" dish water soap. Works fine last a long time. Maybe a little harder to justify for your automobile
 
Originally Posted By: Dutch
Someone asked how the does the bypass valve work on the Trufilter? It doesn't have one. Look on the website for the FAQ's


Reading FAQ #2 on the page linked below doesn't answer the question. The question was why it doesn't have a bypass valve, and they ramble on about the anti-drain back valve which is something entirely different.
crazy.gif


http://www.trufilter.com/faqs/getQuestions/14/12
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

skaughtz
Maybe reconsider using M+H filters
2 3 4
Replies
67
Views
3K
53' Stude
S
Found some oil filters!
Replies
10
Views
787
The motor guy
Carlostrece
Looking for a New Oil Filter
7 8 9
Replies
168
Views
10K
Carlostrece
Y
Filter choices; what to use?
2
Replies
28
Views
3K
GI_GRIFF
B
Built LS1 Oil Filter
2 3 4
Replies
69
Views
5K
jetman
Back
Top Bottom