What do you consider severe or normal service??

[Laminar Lou]

Bill,

Thanks for the pics! So how does it work? Is is just a spring loaded contraption that measures vacuum pressure? Does the engine need to be running in order to read it or does it have a "cheater" marker on it somewhere to indicate the max reading? I assume it has a cheater on it since I see what looks like the words "to reset" on it. If so, what a cool little low tech gizmo. Yankee ingenuity at it's finest!

(now how do I mod my Honda to have one of these!)

 

[g20ooh]

Da Game ,
You are correct . If you are in the Chicagoland area you are most definitely in severe service for the reasons you list and few more as well . And it is not just about oil and engines .

 

[g20ooh]

Whats even funnier are the people who try to go long with the " normal " schedule and wonder why they don't get there .

 

[g20ooh]

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It really isn't a binary thing.

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You said it all . With few words .

 

[Hermann]

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Not so fast - both my '03 Hyundai Sonata and '96 Honda Accord owner's manuals state "severe service" maintenance scheduling should be followed if typical operation includes any of the following:

- operation in 90 deg. F. ambient temperatures or above
- operation in freezing temperatures
- towing a trailer (no size is excluded)
- driving in mountanous areas
- driving in sandy/dusty areas
- predominantly urban crawl operation

There may be more driving done in what automakers consider severe service applications than a lot of drivers realize.

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Gee, I qualify for ALL of these. Is there anyone on the planet who doesn't qualify for at least one of them?

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That why I do a 5K OCI with Havoline 5W-20. It makes no sense to me to waste money on synthetic, if you are going to throw it away every 3-5K for warranty reasons because you fall in the severe catagory.

 

[g20ooh]

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I always figured that "Severe service" was really normal service and "normal service" was just marketing tripe to allow the automaker to say they have the lowest cost of ownership in their class.

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[Bill in Utah]

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Bill,

Thanks for the pics! So how does it work? Is is just a spring loaded contraption that measures vacuum pressure? Does the engine need to be running in order to read it or does it have a "cheater" marker on it somewhere to indicate the max reading? I assume it has a cheater on it since I see what looks like the words "to reset" on it. If so, what a cool little low tech gizmo. Yankee ingenuity at it's finest!

(now how do I mod my Honda to have one of these!)

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It is spring loaded.

It measures the amount of vacuum pressure from the engine side of the air filter to the engine. If the filter is restricted then it goes into the red zone showing that a filter replacement is needed.

Engine does not need to be running to read it.

I've never used it!

My truck was 5 years old and even though my UOAs have low single digit for SI, I just had to replace the filter..

My replacement has been in there for 2 years and the first UOA I did my SI was 1.

I guess the filters work.

We do use the indicators on our work trucks and they do show filters that are in need of replacement.

GM does put in nice things on their trucks to make them easy to work on and indicate when maint should be done.

The filter guage and OLM are excellent items IMO!

Take care, Bill

 

[Gene K]

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Bill,

Thanks for the pics! So how does it work? Is is just a spring loaded contraption that measures vacuum pressure? Does the engine need to be running in order to read it or does it have a "cheater" marker on it somewhere to indicate the max reading? I assume it has a cheater on it since I see what looks like the words "to reset" on it. If so, what a cool little low tech gizmo. Yankee ingenuity at it's finest!

(now how do I mod my Honda to have one of these!)

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Those come on most large Diesel Trucks. You can buy one cheap at a truck parts warehouse (like truckpro). The ones for big trucks just attach to a standard brass fitting. Just install the fitting between the air filter housing and throttle body.

 

[widman]

I go by occasional oil analysis on my fleet. Not analized as often as for my customers, but my general rule is 6 months or 6000 km (4000 miles). 5% or our roads are paved. When I'm on pavement I drive at 110 to 120 kph, in the mountains some days spend most time in 3rd gear out of 5. My daily commute in one city is 4 miles 4 times a day, in the other 15 miles 4 times a day. Customer visits are 300 mile day trips in loose dirt, dust or mud. Others are 2 week trips through the mountains at -10C and tropics at +55C. I change oil at 6000 km whether it needs it or not. Sometimes that is 2 weeks, sometimes 6 months. 3.0 liter Turbo Diesel Toyota 4Runner, with 100,000 km on it in 6 years, and a 2.7 liter gasoline Toyota 4x4 crew cab pickup with 100,000 km on it in 4 years.

 

[KBFXDLI]

I drive 6 miles to work and 6 miles back every day and then a few 50-100 mile trips each month in my Yukon. My OLM ends up calculating about 5500-6000 miles. So, I run M1 or PP and conservatively change it at 5000. I think my service is severe due to all stop & go and idling.

 

[Mokanic]

I think most people could be in the severe service catagory if they considered all of thier driving habits and all of the conditions they may encounter during the life of the oil in the crankcase.