What brakes do you guys use?

[Kestas]

I've written off Pagid from my list. They gave an awful, ear piercing, and embarrassing squeal. A search on the internet shows many others have had that problem with Pagid brakes.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

I've written off Pagid from my list. They gave an awful, ear piercing, and embarrassing squeal. A search on the internet shows many others have had that problem with Pagid brakes.

Europeans prefer performance over noise and dust.
Americans prefer no noise and dust over over performance.

 

[Zack1978]

I’ve used a variety of brands from Rock Auto and have generally good, though mixed results. I’m warming up to the idea of using AAP rotors and pads that I can source locally. I recently installed platinum rotors and gold pads from AAP and have to say I am impressed. Rotors were painted on non contact surfaces and seemed of good quality.

I would agree with you about using AAP brake parts…….except for the prices that they charge. In some cases it’s more than double that of Rock.

 

[Jetronic]

What are the OE brands for U.S cars? Because I don't recognize any brand except Akebono and they Japanese OEM.

Running cheapo coated discs and Metzger pads.
Used Zimmermann before.

Volvo uses ATE and Galfer as OE supplier.

the rear pads on my MG are compatible with an older XC60, and seems to have a Galfer part number on it. Could be the same pads.

 

[shortyb]

I've written off Pagid from my list. They gave an awful, ear piercing, and embarrassing squeal. A search on the internet shows many others have had that problem with Pagid brakes.

Same here. Most of my brake jobs, and all of my cars, are Euros, primarily VWs. Used to be a fan of all the major Euro pad choices, Pagid, Ate, Textar, Jurid, Mintex etc., but with consolidation of friction companies, some have lost their edge a bit. Recently installed some Pagid FG semi-metallics up front with Zimmerman rotors. After a few hundred miles, the strong initial bite went off, and modulation became weird. I use my brakes HARD. When I removed them, it appeared as if the friction material had "melted" at the trailing edge and there was a build up there. Wish I had taken some pics before they went in the trash. Slapped in some Ate GG semis and have been detaching my retinas ever since. Not the first time I've had some issue with Pagids, but not to the extent as on my own car. Euro? Ate pads and Zimmerman rotors. One time the Italians and Germans get along well .

 

[rszappa1]

On my Honda....OEM Honda Pad kit....

 

[FordSVTGuy]

I would agree with you about using AAP brake parts…….except for the prices that they charge. In some cases it’s more than double that of Rock.

Yeah, I found the price at AAP to be better for certain vehicles. The price for the MKC brakes was pretty competitive though I didn’t like the price for my Explorer so I passed…

 

[kr_bitog]

Oh yes I have done that many+ over the past few years. These issues didn't pop up until the last year/two. I was very dissapointed because I really did like the pads. I just keep seeing jobs come back with issues. Just be aware.

DId you notice the Element 3 is made in which country ? I find some are made in Mexico, some are made in China, so it is good if can identify which country have the most problem.

 

[live_to_hunt]

Dynamic friction 5000 I have been using for years. I have been very happy with them

 

[50yr Street Mech]

On my 13' CRV AWD, I use Advics with A/C Delco rotors. On my Toyota's, I use Bosch Quietcast pads / rotors ---shoes/ drums. Lucas synthetic DOT 3 fluid.

 

[Johnson Johnson]

I dislike Bosch brake pads, I've recently cured a long term bind after replacing calipers, slide pins and even a carrier by ditching a pair of Bosch pads.

I actually feel a bit silly about it, but they weren't counterfeit or especially cheap. Their windscreen wipers are very poor quality, it's a brand I'm now trying to avoid. Sadly, on a very long list!

 

[50yr Street Mech]

I don't like their wipers either, but I don't understand what does any set of pads have to do with calipers, pins, carrier ? I've used many different pads with my calipers and hardware. Sounds like the calipers were seizing, pins were frozen-rusted, before the pads were installed. Without those items in perfect working condition, any pad will fail.

 

[Silverado12]

I have Akebono pads (from Rock Auto) on my 2012 C-1500 now and they're really decent for what I use the truck for. I used Element 3 Raybestos pads on my Mustang GT and they seem decent too but I don't drive hard; just regular driving around the city of Richmond and some highway. I use Raybestos Element 3 coated rotors on everything and they've been exceptional. No warping or anything. Edit: I have NAPA Silentguard pads on my wife's Jeep

 

[k1xv]

On my Corvette Z51, I replaced th super dusty Brembo track oriented pads with powerStop ceramic dustless pads. Fine for the street and spirited driving on Vermont's back roads.

 

[nthach]

I wasn’t as impressed with the ProActs as I hoped. The included clips needed a lot of manipulation with pliers for everything to seat correctly. Out of the box, they bent inwards too much and kept the pads from sliding. And this was after fully refinishing the surface of the caliper bracket. The pads themselves perform well and are mostly quiet but they make a slight groan type noise when lightly releasing the brakes downhill: maybe this isn’t something people do a lot of but I live in SF. The Hitachi OEM pads Nissan uses were quieter in this regard. Will likely go back to those next time.

Paired them with Advics rotors which perform awesome but have an uncoated unswept area so there is a rust ring. Will look for something with more coverage on the coating next time.

We live in the Oakland suburbs and I’ve heard similar from Toyota OE pads. We still have OE on three cars and Duralast Elite(Bosch-made in Mexico, not Indian-made), I’ll do a little test down a hill or next time I’m driving in Oakland.

 

[D1dad]

I’m in the mountains of PA for work and will be replacing my ebc rotors that are only a 4-5 months old when I get home Friday. I’ve got a nasty pulse when braking at higher speeds, which ebc has never done. I used ultimax pads and had to file the ears a bit for a fit I was comfortable with, and I did the front wheel bearings at the time, so that’s not the issue. I wonder if filing them makes them pulse at higher speeds? I tried a dozen 60-10 stops thinking I had some pad transfer. It helped, but not much.

 

[Wireman1987]

I would tell ya get a brake kit from power stop, o’reilly or some other brick and mortar joint.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

D1dad...I've been doing brakes for just shy of 50 yrs. Self taught. Made plenty of mistakes along the way, ( not saying you did),....What I FINALLY found out, maybe 2 years ago, is to match the rotor to the pad,,,,or shoe to the drum. I've done all that with shavin down the ears so they slide easier, ( not too much though, then they squeak). I always use a q-tip and smear some lube on the caliper slides. That helps with hanging up pads. The MOST important are the caliper pins and the caliper itself. A semi-seized caliper piston will cause excess heat build up, and warp the rotors. SLIGHTLY rusted pins will cause the caliper not to slide as easily. If I have some rust on a pin, I'll run it across a wire wheel on a drill to shine it up. The rubber pin boots MUST be in good shape, no pin holes, no mushiness to them, or they will leak lube and let water/salt in. It's quite the production to say the least. Clean brake fluid is a MUST also. Dirty brake fluid gets trapped inside the caliper causing the piston to rust/ hang up, or wheel cylinder to rust and leak. I've also found that synthetic brake fluid is superior to conventional fluid. Less brake fade and you can stretch a 2 year system flush to almost 3years. Brake fluid attracts moisture, even in a closed system. It must be flushed out to save you're master cylinder / ABS / calipers / wheel cylinders every 2 years if using conventional fluid. 1-pint normally does the job on a sedan. Lastly, you did right by " bedding" the pads after installation. Hard braking will destroy any drum or rotor. Went thru this with my wife. Give yourself ample space in between cars on the highway. No tailgating ! That will help also. The mountains are not helping either ....A lot of heat build up going down. Don't " ride" the brakes going down a mountain, if possible. Brake, slow down, release, let brakes cool off, repeat. Sorry for the novel

 

[doitmyself]

D1dad...I've been doing brakes for just shy of 50 yrs. Self taught. Made plenty of mistakes along the way, ( not saying you did),....What I FINALLY found out, maybe 2 years ago, is to match the rotor to the pad,,,,or shoe to the drum. I've done all that with shavin down the ears so they slide easier, ( not too much though, then they squeak). I always use a q-tip and smear some lube on the caliper slides. That helps with hanging up pads. The MOST important are the caliper pins and the caliper itself. A semi-seized caliper piston will cause excess heat build up, and warp the rotors. SLIGHTLY rusted pins will cause the caliper not to slide as easily. If I have some rust on a pin, I'll run it across a wire wheel on a drill to shine it up. The rubber pin boots MUST be in good shape, no pin holes, no mushiness to them, or they will leak lube and let water/salt in. It's quite the production to say the least. Clean brake fluid is a MUST also. Dirty brake fluid gets trapped inside the caliper causing the piston to rust/ hang up, or wheel cylinder to rust and leak. I've also found that synthetic brake fluid is superior to conventional fluid. Less brake fade and you can stretch a 2 year system flush to almost 3years. Brake fluid attracts moisture, even in a closed system. It must be flushed out to save you're master cylinder / ABS / calipers / wheel cylinders every 2 years if using conventional fluid. 1-pint normally does the job on a sedan. Lastly, you did right by " bedding" the pads after installation. Hard braking will destroy any drum or rotor. Went thru this with my wife. Give yourself ample space in between cars on the highway. No tailgating ! That will help also. The mountains are not helping either ....A lot of heat build up going down. Don't " ride" the brakes going down a mountain, if possible. Brake, slow down, release, let brakes cool off, repeat. Sorry for the novel

Glad to see someone else detailed oriented. I label myself as the slowest shadetree mechanic east of the Rockies, lol. When people talk about "pad slaps", I scratch my head a bit (Rust belt conditions require more diligence). A few years ago I learned about using a clamp-on dial caliper to check/adjust new rotor runout (thanks BITOG gurus).

I hope that D1dad's EBC experience is not due to the bad components , but due to brake system wear and tear. My first ever EBC coated rotor/Ultimax II experience is still going phenomenal (again, thanks BITOGers).

I do question this statement of yours "I've also found that synthetic brake fluid is superior to conventional fluid." All brake fluid is synthetic. Are you talking about DOT-5 silicon brake fluid?

My 2019 EBC front brake job - still going, with occasional (2 year) check/clean/lube service. I even did a quik and dirty on-the-car caliper painting.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Really...I've been duped !!! Fell for the " synthetic " on the bottle. Had no idea DOT 3 or 4 was ALL synthetic. Learn something new everyday. Thanks for the heads up ...I normally use Lucas " Synthetic" brake fluid. Seems to be the clearest looking fluid I've found. Guess it's just more refined to make it clearer ????? I dunno....Now, I'll go back to plain ole Johnsen's Dot 3 fluid in a gallon jug. Cheap stuff, but I do a lot of brake jobs, so it won't just sit there opened attracting moisture. Thank you so much for that info