What are you working on today?

[D60]

R&R front half shafts on '08 FJ Cruiser. Boots on both sides were torn. Fortunately I'm 99% sure the axles were not OEM, so I'm not discarding quality parts.

I used the XTT shafts from Trakmotive. They have TPE boots, but beyond that not sure they're better. The vehicle has an OME lift and these shafts are intended to handle lifts better.

One of the existing shafts vs new:

Annoyance #1: no cotter pin included

Annoyance #2: not that well packaged and one slinger was dinged.

Annoyance #3: the provided castle nut provides little flexibility. Seen here torqued and not really close:

I returned to the two piece system that came off the old shafts -- so much better:

The job is typical Toyota IFS-easy: unbolt lower ball joint and sway bar and you're home. As usual, there are some vids having you remove everything (caliper, upper BJ, entire knuckle) but NONE of that is necessary.

 

[14Accent]

Busy week at Deere: replaced the engine on an X738 for an oil burning complaint, it was using a quart every 26 hours and spec is no more than an ounce per hour of run time. It got a brand new crate Kawasaki, I'm hoping the factory doesn't want the old one back for verification because the boss said I could have it if they don't. The new engine came with a new ECM and voltage regulator, so all I would need to run the engine would be a radiator setup of some kind. Liquid cooled EFI go-kart anyone?

Aside from that I knocked out two more hydro's: a new K62a in an older LX266 and a RH ZT unit on a Z545R.

The biggest project of the week was adding a 3rd hydraulic function to a new 1025r. Unfortunately for me the unit had a factory cab, which needs to come off before anything can be added to the hydraulics. Installing the kit isn't the worst job: lots of fiddling with hard lines trying to get everything lined up. The customer requested that the 3rd function exit at the rear so he could use it to adjust his 3 point angle, so our parts guy and I fabbed up some custom hoses that I then ran from the 3rd function valve block under the floor up and out the RH side near the ROPS. I was able to use the included quick connect fittings and bracket, it mounted nicely to the rollover structure. After that was all said and done, it got a single point hydraulic connection kit and a 120R loader out front and a quick hitch out back and she was good to go.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Added some HPL engine cleaner to my 140k mile MA 3.5 ford flex
Honestly it's probably a waste since it looks clean and I stay on top of oil changes. Saw some grease pencil writing on the camshaft.

 

[D60]

Busy week at Deere: replaced the engine on an X738 for an oil burning complaint, it was using a quart every 26 hours and spec is no more than an ounce per hour of run time. It got a brand new crate Kawasaki, I'm hoping the factory doesn't want the old one back for verification because the boss said I could have it if they don't. The new engine came with a new ECM and voltage regulator, so all I would need to run the engine would be a radiator setup of some kind. Liquid cooled EFI go-kart anyone?

Aside from that I knocked out two more hydro's: a new K62a in an older LX266 and a RH ZT unit on a Z545R.

The biggest project of the week was adding a 3rd hydraulic function to a new 1025r. Unfortunately for me the unit had a factory cab, which needs to come off before anything can be added to the hydraulics. Installing the kit isn't the worst job: lots of fiddling with hard lines trying to get everything lined up. The customer requested that the 3rd function exit at the rear so he could use it to adjust his 3 point angle, so our parts guy and I fabbed up some custom hoses that I then ran from the 3rd function valve block under the floor up and out the RH side near the ROPS. I was able to use the included quick connect fittings and bracket, it mounted nicely to the rollover structure. After that was all said and done, it got a single point hydraulic connection kit and a 120R loader out front and a quick hitch out back and she was good to go.

I used to plumb up hydraulic roller boxes for HDPE pipeline liners. Sometimes numerous consecutive days of cutting hydraulic hose with the weird (diamond?) blade circular saw and crimping Parker fittings. Of course clocking of the fittings was always important and you'd do your best to eyeball that.

It was kinda fun in small doses but tedious. And guesstimating length could be frustrating.

 

[meep]

Tacoma got a beard trim.

 

[Pterostylis]

Replaced the rear muffler on a relatives Nissan X-trail that was rattling at idle. I bought an exhaust hanger removal tool after seeing comments on this thread about how easy they make the job. It really did make the job quick and it took less than 45mins including pack up and me moving at a snails pace.

 

[BrianF]

No pics but installed an Amazon sourced wireless trailer camera. Classic Chinese instructions that.... well....... they are classic Chinese.

Anyways, it was actually incredibly easy to install. Hardest part was splicing the ultra thin wire from the camera into the 20ish guage marker lights. Took some messing around but she powered up. What was actually pretty cool was the range on this thing. Perfect picture through several layers of steel on my 6 horse.

Right now we opted for two cameras with opposing views of the horse compartment. We have some long hauls planned next month with some yearlings and one crazy mare. We had little interest in a rear view or backup camera view.

I liked it so much I ordered another camera to pair with it and install in the little 3 horse.

Now the monitor requires a cigarette lighter for power. Well the Ram doesn't have one so by chance I found a plug in charger cord for a flashlight that hooks up to the monitor and the trucks inverter. Done.

 

[ripcord]

Just put a new sealed AMG battery in a dead jump pack someone gave me a long time ago. It's a Galls brand. Kinda looks like a Clore knockoff.

The battery I took out was doorknob dead and had a date stamp from 2003. No wonder it wouldn't charge.

 

[michaelluscher]

Just got my Legacy back from Subaru. Dropped off Tuesday night. It was for the DCM issue. I installed a larger group 24 Odyssey and have been trying to put it on a charger once a week. Lately, the car has been taking >6 hours to fully charge if it hasn't been driven for a day or 2. They said the draw was from the DCM so they reset to factory defaults. I was hoping they would have maybe removed the module but they didn't. I also asked about the newer ECM update which is supposed to help the battery charge more fully but they didn't do that. I may ask again before my 8yr 80k warranty is up. Not sure if it is covered under my 10yr 100k extended warranty.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2024/MC-10251111-0001.pdf

 

[clinebarger]

2017 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L.
Intake cam position error DTC, Verified with the Pico, Intake cam off 1 tooth.
Customer just bought the car, Has signs of the cam tower being resealed, Couple stripped valve cover bolts, Broken connector locks.
Zip Tie left in the timing cover.....

1957 Chevy Bel-Air Convertible, 283/Powerglide Factory Power Steering & Power Brakes.
Steering is loose, Found a lot of slop at the PS control valve/Pitman arm, Owner will order parts.
Changed the oil & filter, Been awhile since I've changed a SBC cannister type filter!!

Closed early as the heat beat me up this week.

The next day I pulled the timing cover & oil pan, A lot of metal in the pan! Pull a rod cap & the bearing was about wiped out. (No pic of the bearing insert)

Quoted a new Hyundai short block, head, & timing components but the customer couldn't swing it, So I quoted a wreaking yard engine which he reluctantly agreed to.

There are 2 different 2.0L's for these, Korean built & US built, This is Korean & a lot harder to find....Went & looked at 4-5 engines & wasn't impressed as they all had over 100,000 miles.
Found a 40,000 mile one with a busted timing cover (Mount ripped off in the crash)....Been sitting 3 years. The yard was motivated to move it so I beat them down to $300 from $800....Sold as-is!

Got it back to the shop & it failed leakdown on all 4 cylinders, Intake & Exhaust valves leaking on every cylinder. It also had a tight spot when barring it over.
I expected the worst but it ended up being carbon causing it all, Pulled the head & found carbon sitting on top of the pistons....#1 had it piled up on the quench area causing the tight spot. Every valve had carbon stuck between it & the seat.

Removed all valves, Clean the carbon off & a light lap-in with lapping compound fixed the head.
Soaked all 4 pistons with GM top engine cleaner.
Going back with all new Hyundai gaskets & head bolts
Checked & cleaned the DI injectors so I didn't have to pull them & mess with the PTFE seals, They weren't stuck but had rotten fuel in them (Not my favorite smell)

I guess sitting around long term causes the carbon to dry out & release from the intake valves as they were fairly clean....The carbon was in powder form on top of the pistons.

 

[clinebarger]

I think we need to make RTV a controlled substance as it sure is abused

 

[D60]

Well I was doing rear wheel seals on the '08 FJ Cruiser but then wildfire two miles from my non-profit, so now loading 61 animals into evac trailers I built long ago. There's two of these and they can take 40 animals each, so two trucks can transport 80 animals.

Just like a life boat, they're not palatial but you're not gonna die. Each enclosure is 2x3x4'

 

[ripcord]

Well I was doing rear wheel seals on the '08 FJ Cruiser but then wildfire two miles from my non-profit, so now loading 61 animals into evac trailers I built long ago. There's two of these and they can take 40 animals each, so two trucks can transport 80 animals.

Just like a life boat, they're not palatial but you're not gonna die. Each enclosure is 2x3x4'View attachment 291833

Don't you dare pee on me you mangy curr! How did I wind up in the bottom berth?

 

[The Critic]

2017 Ford Focus ST

Replaced Engine Oil and Filter, Rotated Tires and performed a coolant drain/refill using Motorcraft Yellow (VC13G). I refilled 5 qt using the vacuum filler and also performed the goofy bleed procedure for extra insurance. Now the coolant is neither orange or lime-green; thanks Ford.

 

[The Critic]

2025 Lexus TX500h

Performed its first engine oil and filter replacement.

 

[Kennedy01]

I turn it but hate working with aluminum. Hot rolled i like better
My buddy turns titanium daily and thinks plastic is hard to deal with.... crazy....

Biggest issue I've had material wise is drilling 304 stainless. It eats up drill bit ends and does everything it can to harden as you drill. The procedure I do on it is technically coring, but our coring bit is only like 3-4" long, and we need to come in about 8-10". I've been told a coring bit for that length would have to be custom ordered to the tune of about $1400 for 1 bit....so we drill.

 

[Kennedy01]

Yesterday I did the work on the neighbor's 2002 Durango. 4.7 magnum received spark plugs, ignition coils, air filter, PCV valve, and an oil change. Also did laundry and got a little work out in.

 

[Zee09]

Biggest issue I've had material wise is drilling 304 stainless. It eats up drill bit ends and does everything it can to harden as you drill. The procedure I do on it is technically coring, but our coring bit is only like 3-4" long, and we need to come in about 8-10". I've been told a coring bit for that length would have to be custom ordered to the tune of about $1400 for 1 bit....so we drill.

Years ago I had a project drilling through hardened fasteners of all types. I used Hi-Roc straight flute bits.
Made it pretty easy.

 

[meep]

The next day I pulled the timing cover & oil pan, A lot of metal in the pan! Pull a rod cap & the bearing was about wiped out. (No pic of the bearing insert)

Quoted a new Hyundai short block, head, & timing components but the customer couldn't swing it, So I quoted a wreaking yard engine which he reluctantly agreed to.

There are 2 different 2.0L's for these, Korean built & US built, This is Korean & a lot harder to find....Went & looked at 4-5 engines & wasn't impressed as they all had over 100,000 miles.
Found a 40,000 mile one with a busted timing cover (Mount ripped off in the crash)....Been sitting 3 years. The yard was motivated to move it so I beat them down to $300 from $800....Sold as-is!

Got it back to the shop & it failed leakdown on all 4 cylinders, Intake & Exhaust valves leaking on every cylinder. It also had a tight spot when barring it over.
I expected the worst but it ended up being carbon causing it all, Pulled the head & found carbon sitting on top of the pistons....#1 had it piled up on the quench area causing the tight spot. Every valve had carbon stuck between it & the seat.

Removed all valves, Clean the carbon off & a light lap-in with lapping compound fixed the head.
Soaked all 4 pistons with GM top engine cleaner.
Going back with all new Hyundai gaskets & head bolts
Checked & cleaned the DI injectors so I didn't have to pull them & mess with the PTFE seals, They weren't stuck but had rotten fuel in them (Not my favorite smell)

I guess sitting around long term causes the carbon to dry out & release from the intake valves as they were fairly clean....The carbon was in powder form on top of the pistons.

Are the Korean-made units more desirable?

 

[Kennedy01]

Years ago I had a project drilling through hardened fasteners of all types. I used Hi-Roc straight flute bits.
Made it pretty easy.

I'm going to check them out. Thank you!