I need to find a FORScan expert around here. I have the gizmo but not confident enough to try it on my own and maybe create a giant driveway paperweight.
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What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Oh, man, it was awful. I did a typo. Create not created. I haven't done anything yet. I'm looking for someone "in the neighborhood" who does FORScan all the time. I'm not going to try it just on my own.
Two truck hoods open, some work done but with no solutions at all.
2001 Toyota Tundra 4.7L loud bearing noise at cold start. Spun all the pulleys and bearings in the accessory belt drive to feel for roughness or squeaking. The tensioner pulley felt suspect (even when I had the pulley replaced a while ago) so I had the no name bearing replaced with a National bearing and the loud bearing noise is still there. My suspicions is the original clutch fan pulley bracket bearing which has never been replaced with the second timing belt job.
2008 Ford F150 4.6L rapid coolant loss from that poor Dorman implementation of plugging the rear 3/4" heater barb on their one-size-fits-most 4.6L intake manifolds. The plug failed the first time so the owner was able to get another rubber plug on the port. I wanted to something more reliable so I ordered HPS Silicone plugs but they are the wrong size. ID vs OD confusion screwed me up again.
HPS Silicone plug and a Breeze #10 hose clamp for silicone hoses. Difference with these vs std hose clamps is that the metal band goes under the worm grooves so it does not cut into the hose.
2001 Toyota Tundra 4.7L loud bearing noise at cold start. Spun all the pulleys and bearings in the accessory belt drive to feel for roughness or squeaking. The tensioner pulley felt suspect (even when I had the pulley replaced a while ago) so I had the no name bearing replaced with a National bearing and the loud bearing noise is still there. My suspicions is the original clutch fan pulley bracket bearing which has never been replaced with the second timing belt job.
2008 Ford F150 4.6L rapid coolant loss from that poor Dorman implementation of plugging the rear 3/4" heater barb on their one-size-fits-most 4.6L intake manifolds. The plug failed the first time so the owner was able to get another rubber plug on the port. I wanted to something more reliable so I ordered HPS Silicone plugs but they are the wrong size. ID vs OD confusion screwed me up again.
HPS Silicone plug and a Breeze #10 hose clamp for silicone hoses. Difference with these vs std hose clamps is that the metal band goes under the worm grooves so it does not cut into the hose.
Two of four done. Replaced some fuel line from the pump to the carb. After several bottle primes, it would not run on its own. Took the pump apart to ensure it was sealing correctly and suctioned fuel to it as it was dry. Now she runs good.
Tomorrow I will work on one more. Always lots of fun.
Tomorrow I will work on one more. Always lots of fun.
New wipers on my brother’s 2006 Mercedes R350. He’s down in Rochester MN with it and family and the ones on it were squealing and streaking, dried out old junk. And we had a minor snow storm. He got there ok thanks to the 4MATIC.
Then I went to install a new kitchen tap for my mom. This has turned into a project, as her basin is rusted out on the mounting point and the old failed tap is rust sealed on… I could cut it loose but mom decided to upgrade.
So this morning is replacing the whole lot.
. It’s not difficult, just time consuming… but it’s my mom. I’ve got to do it 
Then I went to install a new kitchen tap for my mom. This has turned into a project, as her basin is rusted out on the mounting point and the old failed tap is rust sealed on… I could cut it loose but mom decided to upgrade.
So this morning is replacing the whole lot.
. It’s not difficult, just time consuming… but it’s my mom. I’ve got to do it Warranty replaced LF CV on a '98 CRV. This was installed June '22. Not kidding. Have the receipts and RA is allowing warranty claim.
@Trav is shaking his head thinking, "This is what I've been saying!!"
You never wanna see this in a wheelwell:
Or this in a wheel ID:
This is the INNER boot. It wasn't leaking but wow, made from cardboard maybe??
Outer boot puking grease
The offender but I imagine this same part is reboxed as a dozen cheap brands. I'm not feeling much "confidence"
@Trav is shaking his head thinking, "This is what I've been saying!!"
You never wanna see this in a wheelwell:
Or this in a wheel ID:
This is the INNER boot. It wasn't leaking but wow, made from cardboard maybe??
Outer boot puking grease
The offender but I imagine this same part is reboxed as a dozen cheap brands. I'm not feeling much "confidence"
Since it's raining all day today, got in my work yesterday.
Rotated the tires on one of my pickups, changed the brake fluid, greased the suspension and attempted to grease the caliper pins and backing plates. Found one caliper pin that was frozen.
So far I haven't noticed any symptoms other than the brakes felt just a hair weak. The truck still stopped well and the pads look okay.
I couldn't get the pin free. I will work on it a bit more next weekend. I'm glad that I decided to check out my brakes on a whim. I think I'll start doing it every time I rotate the tires.
Rotated the tires on one of my pickups, changed the brake fluid, greased the suspension and attempted to grease the caliper pins and backing plates. Found one caliper pin that was frozen.
So far I haven't noticed any symptoms other than the brakes felt just a hair weak. The truck still stopped well and the pads look okay.
I couldn't get the pin free. I will work on it a bit more next weekend. I'm glad that I decided to check out my brakes on a whim. I think I'll start doing it every time I rotate the tires.
Was going to build my heads today but realized the dual valve springs don't fit over the top-hat style valve seals I have.
Can't find the original locators/seats or seals I had with this kit. Oh well. Found online a set of top hat style valve stem seals that are supposed to work with dual-valve springs. The hat is narrow to the bottom.
Going to give those a try. If anything they might be slightly better with having the spring always keeping the seal from moving. Although I've never had that happen.
Can't find the original locators/seats or seals I had with this kit. Oh well. Found online a set of top hat style valve stem seals that are supposed to work with dual-valve springs. The hat is narrow to the bottom.
Going to give those a try. If anything they might be slightly better with having the spring always keeping the seal from moving. Although I've never had that happen.
Completed the kitchen sink install for my mom.
Looks great and she’s happy with the result. Has to fiddle a bit with the strainers and then line them up with replacement drains. Put new plastic drains in… I’m not going to put metal drains that just go into black plastic drain line anyway.
It’s all dry and tight, and I was free the rest of the day to watch Vikings football.
. (if you know, you know).
Looks great and she’s happy with the result. Has to fiddle a bit with the strainers and then line them up with replacement drains. Put new plastic drains in… I’m not going to put metal drains that just go into black plastic drain line anyway.
It’s all dry and tight, and I was free the rest of the day to watch Vikings football.
. (if you know, you know).Funny, I recently did something similar for my folks. I didn't realize you're supposed to have plumber's putty for the drain/basin interface (I am NOT a plumber unless maybe it involves brake lines!!)Completed the kitchen sink install for my mom.
Looks great and she’s happy with the result. Has to fiddle a bit with the strainers and then line them up with replacement drains. Put new plastic drains in… I’m not going to put metal drains that just go into black plastic drain line anyway.
It’s all dry and tight, and I was free the rest of the day to watch Vikings football.
I didn't have any and I HAD to get it buttoned up and move on that day. I used Teflon pipe dope which I did have. It doesn't leak so I guess you can't argue with results.
Cheap, fast, high quality.....my folks got the first two
Funny you say that. I put a new drain in and didn’t have any putty either. But it did have a super thick rubber washer.Funny, I recently did something similar for my folks. I didn't realize you're supposed to have plumber's putty for the drain/basin interface (I am NOT a plumber unless maybe it involves brake lines!!)
I didn't have any and I HAD to get it buttoned up and move on that day. I used Teflon pipe dope which I did have. It doesn't leak so I guess you can't argue with results.
Cheap, fast, high quality.....my folks got the first two
hasn’t leaked in 2 years. Maybe I should revisit ? But seems fine now.
I've used 30+ year outdoor caulk. Worked fine for 18 years+.
What kinda items are you looking to change, and on what vehicle? If I was close I’d offer. It’s pretty easy and in recent versions they have an easy to use interface to “toggle” options instead of having to code everything.
Did a lot of config on my 2019 F150 and a couple items on my 2021 PowerBoost.
I've got a 2023 ST Line Escape. The main one is I want the turn signal to give 5 flashes not 3 when you nudge it. I think there were one or two others I had in mind when the jolly fat guy gave it to me but the signal is the main one.
The sink and tap were a kit and included the strainers/drains. They come with rubber gaskets, but honestly, I chose to use plumbers putty. It works better and it doesn’t leak. Not a drip.
The little tub was like a buck. I recommend that stuff over the gaskets.
Today - drove the Mini down to Motorwerks Mini to have them diagnose the lumpy idle. And they found what I expected, (but could not find since I don’t have wiring schematics).
Bad oxygen sensor connector (that I mentioned elsewhere here that was rodent chewed; my wiring guesstimating was wrong). And another connector was melted.
It’s a few dollars but should bring it back to rude health (appropriate description, as it is British)
I’ll probably pick it up Friday or next week.
Bad oxygen sensor connector (that I mentioned elsewhere here that was rodent chewed; my wiring guesstimating was wrong). And another connector was melted.
It’s a few dollars but should bring it back to rude health (appropriate description, as it is British)
I’ll probably pick it up Friday or next week.
