What are you working on today?

[ls1mike]

All finished. Cleaned up. Did the water pump as well...preventative. Had to replace both rear calipers, one would not reset. The other once reset was seized. Everything on the brakes is new except for the front calipers and rear rotors which were still good. If she can get to 220,000 to 250,000 out it I will be pleased. Runs great, stops great. Cleaned up well.
So new brakes, fuel pump, water pump, fuel filter and plugs. Hard for me to put love into a Ford , but it turned out pretty good.

 

[mattd]

Made a little more progress, but had to quit working after only a few hours working on it due to an ill family member passing away. Cam thrust ok @.0045. Gear back lash spec is .007-.012” I measured .006”. Nothing I can do about that. Nothing adjustable. Welded cam gear for extra insurance (IH engines cam gears some times have gear back off from thrust load). Oil cooler and high pressure pump and lifters installed. This are very expensive performance lifters.

 

[xBa380]

This past weekend, replaced the rear rotors/pads and driver side rear caliper on the 2010 Mazda 3. Used Wagner rotors/pads.

Last year, I had done the front brakes (rotors/pads/fluid) and also replaced the passenger side rear caliper at the time.

Had to dremel off part of the casting in order to free the e-brake cable, just like the other side last year (no amount of heat or penetrant fluid would help, from experience) to free the caliper. Was a fun time… Also, when I pulled out the old pads on the drivers side rear, the pad was broken/split from the backing plate. Never seen that before! This caliper was sticking, though, with about half of the pad contacting the rotor (given why I replaced the caliper), so that likely was the cause there.

 

[Kennedy01]

2002 Ford F-150
Brake booster

1999 Dodge Ram 1500
Idler and pitman arm, upper mount bushings on the front shocks

 

[D60]

'89 K2500 formerly-owned-by-crackheads

Exterior door handle breaks? No problem, just clamp a hemostat in there. Oi vey.

Passenger side mirror breaks? Tape it up.

Oh and don't forget the terrible DIY tint job.

So: new exterior door handle. New latch mechanism (something was broken). New door lock cylinders because I don't trust the former owners.

New RH exterior mirror and remove the sa-weet tint job.

I can only be mad at myself because I should know better by now: DO NOT BUY DORMAN EXTERIOR HANDLES!!! (or Dorman anything)

 

[53' Stude]

2019 Mazda CX 5, left rear outer tail lamp assembly. Finally arrived after 2 weeks being stuck in California

 

[mattd]

Got the engine together and in the truck. Not too much longer.

 

[mattd]

A few more

 

[mattd]

Last few

 

[53' Stude]

Brakes front and rear on a 2020 Nissan Altima.

 

[Kennedy01]

Yesterday
2001 Dodge Ram 1500
Front and rear shocks, front sway bar links

Today I'll be cutting wood

 

[Hermann]

Living!

 

[nthach]

I can only be mad at myself because I should know better by now: DO NOT BUY DORMAN EXTERIOR HANDLES!!! (or Dorman anything)

aye, I need to install a door handle on an Explorer - I hope Depo’s better than Dorman.

 

[mccandish]

I found that one of our toilets had started rocking and pulled it up to reveal a cracked ear on the PVC toilet flange. I also noted the flange was installed before the finished floor was put in, so I picked up not only a stainless-steel flange repair ring, but also a Danco All-In-One wax ring to make up for the sunken flange. Thirty minutes (and some sweat) later, it's good as new.

After that it's out to the lawn to mow before the rain hits, and then shoot the bull with a neighbor (we apparently had a kid come through yesterday trying car door handles at 5:00 in the morning - another neighbor chased him off). Then, back inside for a cool drink

 

[michaelluscher]

I thought I'd finally be able to reassemble my Camry with it's new rear brakes, but I've now discovered that the one wheel bearing that I didn't replace, is now loud

It's the last original one on the car at 187k

I'm gonna gamble on a Koyo unit from an eBay seller that's never wronged me yet

Maybe it'll make tending to the parking brake shoes easier with it out of the way

 

[cb_13]

Both front hub/bearing assemblies on a Nissan Rogue. Those suckers were rusted in good!

Drivers window motor/regulator on an old f150.

 

[14Accent]

For the last 2 days, I've endured the torture that is replacing the clutch on a 2010 Suzuki SX4 hatch. Yes, they still exist. Thankfully it was a 2wd model. When I first inspected it, it looked like it would be a super simple job. The engine mounts all bolted to the engine block which led me to believe I could simply unbolt the trans and slip it back and off. Boy was I wrong...

What I initially (and foolishly) thought would be a gravy job turned into a nightmare. Keep in mind, we're talking about a 100k mile MN vehicle. As it were, I ended up having to remove both the rear subframe and front crossmember/radiator support, the exhaust downpipe, the steering intermediate shaft, etc etc. Fine, nothing a little elbow grease and patience can't handle. That is, until I got to the radiator/front crossmember bolts. The first one came out with little fight, however upon removal I discovered that the bolt shank just below the head had rusted to the point that what was once a 10mm diameter bolt had become nothing more than a 5mm relic of days past. Needless to say, the remaining 4 bolts refused to budge.

I decided, thankfully, to quit while I was ahead. I used the factory frame holes to apply liberal amounts of bust-rust to the remaining bolts and left the car overnight, hoping 24ish hours would be enough time to allow the bond of body and rust to settle their divorce proceedings in a way Johnny Depp and Amber Heard could only dream of. To my dismay, my prayers went unanswered. Enter the induction heater. Folks, this tool may be the single best tool I've EVER used as a mechanic in the Midwest. With a little patience and a LOT of luck, the remaining bolts came out without a fight. For those that are curious: I immediately discarded said bolts in favor of covering my behind and installing fresh hardware. Shout out to my local Ace Hardware for carrying an EXTENSIVE array of metric nuts and bolts... I can't begin to convey how many times their commitment to stocking almost every conceivable diameter, pitch, and length bolt has saved me considerable headache. I've gone so far as to commend the owner for his willingness to go above and beyond to keep his relatively small store stocked with the most obscure hardware.

I wrapped up the job this afternoon, after spending a good 45 minutes bleeding the idiotic hydraulic clutch system. I hope to never touch that vehicle ever again.

 

[The Critic]

HLR on the Camry. 500, 800, 1000, 3000 and 3M UV clear. It’s a 1-footer. Some texture issues but not too bad.

Spent about 1:45 including an exterior wash w/spray sealant.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Working on my V8. I took the doghouse off to inspect everything and try and look one last time for any vacuum leaks. Did find the PCV Valve to be leaking as well. So we will get another one. My dad said best of his memory that it is original or at least hasn’t been replaced since he bought it in 1998 with 31,000. The hose going to it appears ok but it was so covered in oil I couldn’t really tell. The hose clamp was tight as well so might get a new piece of hose for it as well.

 

[The Critic]

View attachment 98987
Working on my V8. I took the doghouse off to inspect everything and try and look one last time for any vacuum leaks. Did find the PCV Valve to be leaking as well. So we will get another one. My dad said best of his memory that it is original or at least hasn’t been replaced since he bought it in 1998 with 31,000. The hose going to it appears ok but it was so covered in oil I couldn’t really tell. The hose clamp was tight as well so might get a new piece of hose for it as well.

Smoke machine to check for leaks?