What are you working on today?

Finished the 69 Ford this morning. This afternoon I replaced the spark plugs in a 2010 Infiniti QX56.
 
We did a bottom end rebuild on the 2002 New Beetle that had the hole in the oil pan. Crank looked great, but the main bearings were toast. Rod bearings were OK, but I changed them anyway. Now the engine is back in and I am hooking everything up to fire it up.

We spun the engine with the starter and it seems that all is well now!
 

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Starting on cleaning MAF sensor and replacing PCV valve on the Pathfinder. After that, it's whether or not I should bother with the throttle body for cleaning (seen a lot of issues with people having to relearn it since it's electronic throttle)
 
Got a p420 code on the Trax. Thought it could be the cat. Started digging online and it turns out the flex pipe likes to snap off. Enough of an exhaust leak so that one of the O2 sensors won't read properly. 100 bucks for the pipe. Slapping her on with help from a buddy.
 
Replaced spark plugs and wires on a 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 6.0, and changed the oil. Also changed oil and rotated tires on a 2013 Malibu.
 
Today's post is in-between, I looked for lower intake manifold torque specs, 2012 Kia 3.5, not satisfied with what I found and the day is getting late, so rather than hastily re-assemble with specs I wasn't sure of, I took a photo to show what I think is the worst part, the wire harness connections...so far haven't broke any tabs off and all I got left is assembly.

What I like best about Kia 3.5 is the wire harness come across the front of the motor where you can see what your doing except the power steering connector, the green wire connection just to the left of the gray one. I left the fuel rail attached to the lower intake and just tuned it over toward the right to get underneath it for the oil sender.
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And I misdiagnosed this one, I thought the oil sender was leaking, though common issue on these and there was oil in the valley, seems the cap for the oil filter was not tight enough. I should have put a little more time into looking at that, the fresh oil around the top is obvious now. I remember not wanting to tighten it too much, plastic cap and plastic housing isn't what I would call ideal...I did turn it a little tighter but should start looking for the replacement of those parts as I don't need them yet, but when I do...Nice to have this when it isn't cold out and I now can add a little more experience for later.
 
I replaced the tiny miniature tail light bulbs on my Kubota tractor with 912 bulbs. They are much, much brighter. Here is a comparison of the bulb size and the before and after. The dimmer bulb on the right side of the tractor was the original type and it was replaced too.
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Did oil change on “maintenance guy” (repairman, lot maintainer etc) 2019 Ford F-250 truck with 7.2 gas engine. Replaced both wipers, inspected truck, and mounted and balanced 4 Sumitomo LT 275/65R18 Load range “E” A/T winter tires. That took all of hour and half as boss did the tires😁🥃🍺🇺🇸
 
Replaced front sway bar links on a 2014 Chrysler town and country, and changed the oil. Also changed the oil and coolant on a 92 firebird.
 
Drivers side CV Axle on 'Spot', our 250,0000 mile Accord. In the process I found that it was time for new motor mounts, so it got those done as well. Just so happened to have a cheap set of Ebay mounts laying around. They don't last as long as OEM mounts, but ~$50 vs ~$350 I take that chance.

Ohh and new tires as well.

CV Axle used was GSP brand. I've had really good luck with them over the years, and the one I used yesterday works just fine.

My secret to doing J-Series mounts(Front and rear, side is easy as it is). Take your step drill and drill out the 4 bottom holes and single top hole on the new mounts to ~1/2". The bolts are big enough that properly torqued nothing moves, and the install will go many thousands of times easier.
 
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New rims came in for Project Milan, they look fresh

I've been trying to figure out what to do for lug nuts, turns out a McGard wheel installation kit I've had on the shelf for my G Body Grand Prix will be a perfect fit
 
Just finished fixing a TH350. The guy bought it from someone who said it was in 100% condition and was only selling it because he went with an overdrive (700R4) transmission. This thing has leaked ATF like a sieve from the front cover. Every one of the bolt holes for the pump were stripped. He ran in 1/4" longer bolts with a bunch of loctite which obviously didn't work. I had to helicoil all 8 holes, replace the bolts, and got them torqued down. Hopefully that fixes that issue.
 
Flushed the brake fluid from my 91’ Previa. It Was four years old. Maple syrup color, not many miles on it though.

While flushing the brake fluid I swapped the master cylinder with an EBay used part. Sometimes it’s a gamble with eBay used parts. I had no choice though, new OEM parts are not an option with a manual transmission Previa. About as rare as thin women in Mississippi.

What a difference the swap made. Before the repair, the brake pedal would sink to the floor. Still functional nonetheless, but awful feel. The used one works like new. The pedal does not sink at all. What new breath of fresh air my old Yota has me feeling now. Thank goodness for eBay.

After that, I used it to pick up some drywall for home repairs. It’s good to have a van.
 

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Messed with the Durango for a bit this afternoon, have concluded the crank sensor is the cause of the hard starting issue. I have not dedicated any real amount of time to either of my dodges. I'm hoping if the crank sensor fixes the Durango I'll be inspired to finish it out, then focus on my ram. Lately I've been working almost every week day at my friends shop, and haven't felt like working on my own vehicles in my off time.
 
Worked on my Coleman Powermate 5500 watt generator today. It has sat for a couple years and I changed the carburetor in the spring but today it only ran for 30 minutes and then stopped. It had water in the gas. It has taken me several attempts to get all the water out the 5 gallon tank how it gone in there in the first place is a mystery. Finally I completely drained the tank, dried the inside with microfiber towels, and then put in less than a gallon of fresh gas.. I had to take the carb bowl off again too and cleaned the jets again. Then I ran it until it ran completely out of gas. So I should be all set now, ready to put fresh gas in it right before I use it next.
 
Pulled the rear driveshaft section down on the Ranger, cleaned and applied Fords 'special lube'. Why they didn't do it at the factory by default is beyond me.

Symptom is a clunk from the rear end area when stopping and starting. Cause is the yoke in the middle of the driveshaft binding and releasing.

It's a really dumb problem to have on a new truck, and its been going on for years.

Ohh, PS Ford, you can eat it with the threadlock you put on your driveshaft bolts. 3 came out, one bound up so hard I thought I was seriously screwed until I heated it.
 
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Replaced my CCV grommets and elbows on a 99 Grand Cherokee 4.0 and its heater hoses. Reused the felpro rubber valve cover gasket from last time the valve cover was off in 2014-ish. I'm hoping oil leak (1 qt/5K miles) is from the rear of the valve cover instead of the RMS replaced in 2014... don't want to do that again.

256K miles of whatever cheap 5W-30/10W-30/10W-40 oil, usually changed at 5K miles but a few times went over to 7K. Currently has Quaker State syn blend high mileage at 4.6K miles. Before that, next previous 4 oil changes were with 10W40 HM Pennzoil conventional. I'll change the oil after the dirt that got in from today gets filtered out.
 

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Replaced my CCV grommets and elbows on a 99 Grand Cherokee 4.0 and its heater hoses. Reused the felpro rubber valve cover gasket from last time the valve cover was off in 2014-ish. I'm hoping oil leak (1 qt/5K miles) is from the rear of the valve cover instead of the RMS replaced in 2014... don't want to do that again.

256K miles of whatever cheap 5W-30/10W-30/10W-40 oil, usually changed at 5K miles but a few times went over to 7K. Currently has Quaker State syn blend high mileage at 4.6K miles. Before that, next previous 4 oil changes were with 10W40 HM Pennzoil conventional. I'll change the oil after the dirt that got in from today gets filtered out.
Nice write up and photos. 🍺👍🇺🇸
 
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