Piddled with the P0111 recurring on my 3500. Since I was messing under the hood, I cleaned the MAP, checked the inlet air and MAF sensor. Air filter was good as was the cheap fenderwell ducting for the airbox. Then used some silicone spray to quiet down the usual dirt coated door hinges.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Swapped out the brakes on a Subaru Outback my brother has been refurbishing.
Car was sold by the previous owner due to heavy damage from a deer strike. I passed on it but it was too cheap for him to pass it as well. He did get it back to looking ok, but there’s still things to do, like repair/replace the seat belt retractors.
Brakes were bad… the pads still had some material but the rust made it look like these were immersed in salt water.
I got it cleaned out and the brake calipers still worked so I ran with them. New Geomet coated rotors went on, and the brake hardware was difficult to get in place even after heavy cleaning and filing on the brackets. But I got it to work. New brake grease on the slide pins and it was all done.
Brakes function as they should so I’ll do the rears.
If it were my call, I’d have put new calipers on as well. But it’s not.
Car was sold by the previous owner due to heavy damage from a deer strike. I passed on it but it was too cheap for him to pass it as well. He did get it back to looking ok, but there’s still things to do, like repair/replace the seat belt retractors.
Brakes were bad… the pads still had some material but the rust made it look like these were immersed in salt water.
I got it cleaned out and the brake calipers still worked so I ran with them. New Geomet coated rotors went on, and the brake hardware was difficult to get in place even after heavy cleaning and filing on the brackets. But I got it to work. New brake grease on the slide pins and it was all done.
Brakes function as they should so I’ll do the rears.
If it were my call, I’d have put new calipers on as well. But it’s not.
Interesting, Hygard is amber colored. More photos of the skid once it’s back in action
Whew. Big job today. Poured 3/4 gallon of the good green Rain-X washer fluid into my new CR-V. Much better than the plain water they put in. Hope I don't have that big a job again for a while. 
i'm so proud of you! that sounds like such a hard job! you should treat yourself to a bottle of vodka or something, you definitely earned itWhew. Big job today. Poured 3/4 gallon of the good green Rain-X washer fluid into my new CR-V. Much better than the plain water they put in. Hope I don't have that big a job again for a while.
I don't drink but maybe a nice steak and baked potato.i'm so proud of you! that sounds like such a hard job! you should treat yourself to a bottle of vodka or something, you definitely earned it
Dropped the gas tank from my 07 Yukon Denali w/196.000 miles to change the fuel pump assembly. Fuel gauge sending unit has been acting wonky. Plus, the fuel pumps don't last forever. This vehicle is mostly rust free so it's a pretty easy job as long as you have the fuel tank near empty.
Ordered a variety of plastic bits for the f150 to replace things which have broken.
Also playing… in search of better auxiliary driving lights - ordered hella E-code 5 3/4” sealed beam replacements with the h4 halogen bulb. About to order 5 3/4” lamp housings for motorcycle mods and see how they fit up. This should be far better than any LED and most name brand aux lights for on road use. I don’t need them, but I do wanna try them.
Also playing… in search of better auxiliary driving lights - ordered hella E-code 5 3/4” sealed beam replacements with the h4 halogen bulb. About to order 5 3/4” lamp housings for motorcycle mods and see how they fit up. This should be far better than any LED and most name brand aux lights for on road use. I don’t need them, but I do wanna try them.
Installed the "poor man's power steering" and threw in some 1156 LED headlight bulbs in our Husqvarna YTH22V42. Can't say I noticed much change in the steering, maybe a little bit less effort. The headlights bulbs were purely because I felt like upgrading something in the fleet.
Hauled a pair of box culvert pieces in yesterday to be delivered and set this morning for a good friend of mine who is in the excavation business(also a fellow firefighter). This was a fun job and something I have never seen done before. These weigh 17,600lbs per section. The power company arrived this morning and installed insulator sleeves over the closest phase as the crane had to get VERY close to the overhead lines to set the last piece into place. They also switched this section of power lines over to one-shot protection in case something did go terribly wrong it will drop out and will not automatically try to reset.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 1,637
Spent most of yesterday on the road. Boss called me before I left the house telling me one of his older Chevy pickups has thrown a belt in service. Got to the truck and found the AC compressor has locked up tight and popped the belt off. The AC hasn't worked on this truck in several years, and he isn't interested in fixing it. Fortunately the local Napa had a compressor bypass pulley in stock as well as a new belt. Truck is a 96 Chevrolet Cheyenne half ton with a 4.3 V6. This whole thing used up about six hours of my day.
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2012
- Messages
- 3,665
2005 Tahoe
Drove out by the airport for a meeting and waiting to go in… notice my engine temp rising. Gets a little high so I shut it off and think “that’s weird”. Get out to go in and look back to see a few gallons of Dex-Cool on the ground by the rear passenger quarter.
Must’ve blow out one of the rear heat lines. Looped back a heater hose, filled it up and made it home.
Now this morning I am saying “flarg the rear heat”, cut off the rear lines by the A/C dryer, and connected the hoses directly to the front heater core. I already have the rear A/C Blocked off.
Drove out by the airport for a meeting and waiting to go in… notice my engine temp rising. Gets a little high so I shut it off and think “that’s weird”. Get out to go in and look back to see a few gallons of Dex-Cool on the ground by the rear passenger quarter.
Must’ve blow out one of the rear heat lines. Looped back a heater hose, filled it up and made it home.
Now this morning I am saying “flarg the rear heat”, cut off the rear lines by the A/C dryer, and connected the hoses directly to the front heater core. I already have the rear A/C Blocked off.
Upgraded the lights on our little Teske to LED's with a $25 kit from Amazon, and used the opportunity to replace all the plain butt crimps with proper weather sealed pieces. I got the connector set with the crimper, it's a super nice piece of kit for $25. Of course, I couldn't find my speedy stripper, but WM had one more on the shelf on clearance for a whopping $9.50.
I really like those connectors. I’m borderline terrible with solder but I can do it. These will work in nearly every application I work on
You really want the armored light enclosures! They're just consumables any other way. And I personally triangulate the mounts or you just tear them right off the trailer.
NP231J rebuild.
These "slingers" are legendary. I struggled for awhile until I tried this specialty PosiLock TJ-2. It's machined with very thin, shallow jaws as it's intended for automatic trans rebuilds IIRC. It worked beautifully and being a tool junkie paid off today
These "slingers" are legendary. I struggled for awhile until I tried this specialty PosiLock TJ-2. It's machined with very thin, shallow jaws as it's intended for automatic trans rebuilds IIRC. It worked beautifully and being a tool junkie paid off today
or similar. TSC was just blowing out the ones they used to carry (and they were prepainted black), but likely gone by now in all stores.
The problem is that you're still relying on the cheesy studs of the light to hold that all on, and IME that is always a stud in a plastic housing. Thus, I weld them on so they can't just fall off when you shatter the whole plastic light housing
