What are you working on today?

Got all the LVP down in the bedroom, only the bathroom is left. Got the LED tail Iights hooked up. That was kinda a rats nest on the drivers side. Relay was supposed to be here today but my OReillys is terrible. Got the 2x2s to start building the bed frames so that's this week task.
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Found that my fuel filler drain was disconnected on my 1991 Mercedes 350SD. Rarely get water in the trunk, but I have seen it once or twice. I don’t want that to happen.

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Looks like the drain hose had been tweaked long term by the brake hose holder.

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But even with some freeing up it wasnt going into the body easily.

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It took a LOT of force to get it in and up. But I got it connected eventually. I could have taken it easier with a bench press workout. The rear end of the car was pushed up a lot.

But I got a connection.

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And it worked.

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Not bad for a 1991 with 209k miles.
 
Do you notice if a radon fan/mitigation system takes a lotta juice to run? I have an older basement and was considering adding one, not necessarily for radon, but to keep venting the basement and maybe not have to run two dehumidifiers. I'd figure one radon fan would take much less than 2 dehumidifiers.

I’ve purchased one mitigation installation, and DIY’ed another. You are correct, the fans don’t draw much power. The radon fans are probably 60 watts and 400 cfm. Consider using a smaller fan, such as a bathroom exhaust fan. They now have DC drives (I like delta) which take very little power and duct out in 3” pipe. I think the largest DC bathroom fans reach up to 200 cfm. For a full-time op, less may be more. 400 cfm is enough to noticeably pull attic air into your living space.
 
Found that my fuel filler drain was disconnected on my 1991 Mercedes 350SD. Rarely get water in the trunk, but I have seen it once or twice. I don’t want that to happen.

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Looks like the drain hose had been tweaked long term by the brake hose holder.

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But even with some freeing up it wasnt going into the body easily.

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It took a LOT of force to get it in and up. But I got it connected eventually. I could have taken it easier with a bench press workout. The rear end of the car was pushed up a lot.

But I got a connection.

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And it worked.

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Not bad for a 1991 with 209k miles.
Pretty clean vehicle.
 
Do you notice if a radon fan/mitigation system takes a lotta juice to run? I have an older basement and was considering adding one, not necessarily for radon, but to keep venting the basement and maybe not have to run two dehumidifiers. I'd figure one radon fan would take much less than 2 dehumidifiers.
You can get blue tooth or wifi controlled 10 speed axial fans in 4" and up. Very cheap to run and you can change the speeds from your phone.

I use a Cloudline T4" one for ventilation and it's on almost all the time running at about 50-60%. A larger one can be ran at slower speeds and lower cost and be almost completely silent.

I got a radon tester and after a couple months is is slowing down going to lower numbers. Started out rather high at +3 but I think they do a 24 hr average for the display and it started dropping every day. It's been at 1.24 for a week now.

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Do you notice if a radon fan/mitigation system takes a lotta juice to run? I have an older basement and was considering adding one, not necessarily for radon, but to keep venting the basement and maybe not have to run two dehumidifiers. I'd figure one radon fan would take much less than 2 dehumidifiers.
My radon fan is an 85 watt motor mounted on the outside of my home, where it sucks the radon from under my basement slab via a 3” pvc pipe that was cut into the slab. It runs 24/7 and probably costs 13 cents per KWh. Probably less than $90 a year to run. Peace of mind is worth it. My home didn’t have huge levels of radon when we purchased it, but the fan brought it below the threshold of 4 pci/L.

I don’t know how much juice your dehumidifiers take or if the fan would help with moisture, but I don’t think it would hurt.
 
Yesterday I helped a neighbor who's replacing the engine in a 2007 Dodge Ram with a 5.7 V8 he's trying to flip.

Engine was locked up and we pulled the oil pan, gasket/windage tray and pickup tube. Then we pulled rod and main caps until we finally were able to get the crankshaft to turn. Almost every rod bearing was spun, a few were stacked, and #5 and 6 were basically welded to the rods. Lots of cursing, beating and prying but finally we were able to remove all the rod and main caps and get the crankshaft to turn. All this was done so the torque converter bolts could be removed, otherwise the converter would have had to come out with the engine and he'd still have to get it removed anyway.

It appears someone installed a new oil pump, but did not clean the pickup tube, replace the o ring where the tube bolts to the pump, did not replace the oil pan gasket or timing cover gasket, and either forgot the oil or the blocked pickup screen would pull oil through it. I didn't think to get any pictures because frankly, I didn't want to do the job wasn't inclined to do anything but get it over with. Got paid though.
He sent me some pictures over the weekend before he pulled the engine out

Today I replaced the EGR valve /dpfe sensor assembly on a 2007 Ford Explorer, as well as inspected the brakes, rotated tires and changed the oil. I also did a tire rotation, brake inspection and oil change on a 2021 Toyota Tundra.

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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 V8
Replaced radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, flushed block and heater core, battery, starter and changed oil
 
Worked on the mounting for the swivel seat in the RV. Reused two of the original bolts and drilled the other two.. that was kinda uh do I reallly want to do this. Went to Menards and got a couple bolts the same size and fender washers. Hopefully get the new carpet down tomorrow and seats back in.
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He sent me some pictures over the weekend before he pulled the engine out

Today I replaced the EGR valve /dpfe sensor assembly on a 2007 Ford Explorer, as well as inspected the brakes, rotated tires and changed the oil. I also did a tire rotation, brake inspection and oil change on a 2021 Toyota Tundra.

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Dang that’s just carnage. May not be R rated but effective carnage nonetheless.
 
Reassembled the Mini engine and accessories yesterday. Intake, turbo, electrical connections, vacuum lines, etc.

Set the radiator assembly and AC condenser back on the car and bolted the whole thing back together. I need to install my upsized intercooler as seen in this picture.

I have a couple of hollow bolt (like large size banjo bolts) to replace on the turbo for cooling, and installing charge pipes. Checking all clamps on all hoses. And refilling the cooling system with proper European blue coolant. I’m this close to completing this long educational project. 😎

The final assembly will be refitting the lights and bumper cover.

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Continued with the stroker build, File fit all the compression rings, Moly upper ring at .018" & Cast 2nd ring at .020"....The part I dislike most about engine building, 16 rings & you have to grind & dress them each 3-6 times sneaking up on the clearance (And Moly & Cast rings file at different rates) ;)

Pistons all knocked in, The L-19 ARP rod bolts get torqued to 80 foot pounds:)
Camshaft....BTR 4" Stroke rectangle port truck cam, 219/239, .553"/.553", 115+2, This is going in a 2002 Tahoe that has a over cammed LQ9. Owner wants better street manners.
GM Timing gears with a Hinson/Iwis C7-R chain.
GM oil pump, PR spring shimmed .020"

Found a set of damaged BPE LS3 cylinder heads on FB Marketplace for dirt cheap, Had my machine shop repair, perform valve job & surface them. If you need machine work in the DFW area....H&H Automotive Machine in Haltom City is highly recommended!
The last picture is the combustion chamber that was damaged, Can't hardly tell it was repaired & even CC'ed the same as the rest of the chambers

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Buttoned up the N14 Mini Cooper S engine and test fired it.

Success! No misfires, no major issues. 🥳.

The minor 2 items are:

Faulty coolant sensor. It was included with the thermostat assembly so I ran with it. New does not mean good. Fortunately it’s relatively easy to get at and swap so I have a replacement on order at my local NAPA.

The other I’ll need to send out to my local exhaust guy. When removing the down pipe attached to the turbo, I tore the flex pipe going to the rest of the exhaust. I cannot locate a replacement without buying an all new exhaust from my sources, so I’ll see if he can rig up something.

Car starts fast with the new starter I installed while everything was off and it was accessible.

Idles evenly and the new turbocharger spins silently. The old one had a slight noise (not the cool kind) from being rebuilt, and I replaced the mounting strips that reinforced the turbo to the exhaust manifold that were missing.

Now I need to reinstall the front bumper cover, headlights, etc. 😁

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Yesterday
2018 Hyundai Elantra 2.0
Inspected brakes, rotated tires and changed oil

1997 Ford F-150 4.6 V8
Replaced water pump, belt idler pulley, belt tensioner, fan clutch and changed oil
 
Yesterday I finally finished the Expedition One bumper and winch install on this '19 Ranger. Also installed Barricade steps which are not my cup of tea but it's not my vehicle so my personal preferences are irrelevant.

60k service included both diffs, t-case, transmission and it was due for an oil change according to the OLM so I did that. The filter location on the 2.3EB harkens of Toyota 3.0/3.4 and it even uses the same filter. I guess I'm easily amused.
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