What are you working on today?

Finally found time to work on the jack.

The cylinder took ~25cc of jack oil (I used a needle and 5cc syringe to minimize the mess) to top up.

Before topping off:
  1. Closed the valve and raised the ram until what I think the bypass (over travel valve? for lack of a better term) kicked in. Then I lowered the ram.
  2. Repeat (1).
  3. Removed plug and topped off the cylinder with the ram lowered.
  4. Measured the plug hole diameter (~5/15") with a transfer punch and refit the plug.
  5. Repeat (1).
  6. With the ram lowered and valve opened, pumped the handle 20 times (full travel) per the manual.
  7. Repeat (5) and (6).
Tried lifting the Safari. The front end came off the ground but it took a lot of pumping (I don't know if this is normal behavior...the jack is a quick-lift model if that matters). Once the tires cleared the pavement, the van slowly lowered with the valve still closed.

I suspect the jack is still pushing air. I ran out of daylight so I'll pick this up (no pun intended) maybe tomorrow.

I may order a 5/16" oil cup to replace the plug as it's a three handed operation with needle nose pliers and a 1/8" blade screwdriver.


or


Any comments, further instructions are welcomed.
Circled back to the floor jack after washing the patio furniture. Bled it a few more times and all is good. Removed the handle and greased the end with Lubriplate 105 - it was dry.
 
Cleaned the gutters and brought the power washer out.. cleaned the bike for BAK, 3 rugs and the mower. Probably should of cleaned the mower more. Treated the deck with some rust converter and rusteoulm. Wasn't rusted paint just coming off. Had it not quite 3 years but the Kobalt 80v is the best think I've ever bought.
 
I wonder if he changed the fluid. My 2012 4 speed auto looked pretty dirty when I changed it at 25,000 miles. I changed it again at 40,000 and same thing. I do tow with mine, but it's only a six. It's been worked hard, though.
The date code on the filter was 2020, The fluid looked really good for the 3-4's being burnt down. Fluid changes would not have prevented this failure, There's a flaw in the drum that caused the 3-4 apply oil to leak.....I haven't had time to press the shaft out of the drum to investigate.
 
I finished up the second ball joint on a 2011 Sonata
I had so much trouble getting the studs of the CTR/OE ball joint to press in, I had to get creative with the rental press
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Nice new cotter pins, they were both missing 😳
Then I moved onto the 2011 Avalon I've posted about in the past
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Despite the brake lights, BTSI solenoid, and push to start all working normally, it had codes for the stop lamp switch
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I replaced it with an OE Toyota part, as it ohmed out bad on one contact, and it felt kinda crunchy
That fixed the A/B correlation code, but I still had the Circuit A code
In a weary stupor, I stared at the Autel scan tool, and it mentioned the STOP circuit/fuse
I popped the underhood fuse box, and guess what
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7.5A Stop #3 fuse was MISSING 😳
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No idea how it went missing
It's a 2011 with 65k, and a fairly short service history
I wonder if it left the factory/PDI like this?
With the new switch and the missing fuse installed, the codes cleared, the cruise control cancel/resume works properly, and the push to start now works first try every try
She didn't notice the odd false push start, or the cruise control resume not working
I probably wouldn't have noticed had I not had the Autel/Techstream
Then I changed the CAF, replaced the rusty plate hardware with SS and anti seize
And changed both keyfob batteries
Next week I'll have it back for an OCI and rear sway bar links
 
Finally got around to trying the TEC582 ceramic detailing spray that I bought as a result of someone’s post in the detailing forums here.

Looks like it shined the car up quite a bit compared to before. I’ll try to keep up with it every other car wash thru the summer and see how it holds up!
 

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Finally got around to trying the TEC582 ceramic detailing spray that I bought as a result of someone’s post in the detailing forums here.

Looks like it shined the car up quite a bit compared to before. I’ll try to keep up with it every other car wash thru the summer and see how it holds up!
It lasts for about 30 days.
 
This afternoon it's 92F with no breeze. 🥵

Got rid of all the empty pots (many still had soil in them) scattered around the outside of house; swept up and sprayed for pests around the perimeter of the house with Ortho Home Defense. These are places the dog never investigates. Still, I keep the treated area limited to
I recently noticed that the sprayer that Ortho provides is now a trigger sprayer head. I glad I kept the older battery powered sprayer they used to provide.

Now that I have a working floor jack, tomorrow I may change the oil and do a drain/refill on the Lexus. It's forecast to be only 86F. I'd already be dead if I was in Arizona.
 
I spent yesterday and today working on an Equalizer Hitch I purchased off Craigslist and I am flipping the axles on my Utility Trailer, it give it a lift. Yep, I purchased new Spring Pads and will Mig Weld them on and remount.

Tore the hitch down, wire brushed and sanded.... prepping for new paint.


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Just some skid steer work. Cleaned out the quick tach again. Not as bad as before but rather clean it more often then wait until it's jammed up. Then used some liquid electrical tape to seal up some broken insulation right at the motor. Then a rinse down.
 

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well I cleaned the mass air flow sensor or it might be a speed density sensor that's connected inside my air intake, replace the PCV valve, managed to get the throttle body opened up so I can wipe down the deposits that I thought were there but they were not. idle is slightly better now as the PCV valve had already been wiped down or sprayed out with mass air flow sensor cleaner. first time change in 260,000 mi

after wiping out the throttle body with the g DI CRC cleaner it's evident to me that my cleaning out the valves and throttle plate every 10,000 miles has paidoff. took me all of about 2 hours to do everything as I had to find something that would keep the accelerator pedal down to the floor so I can get the plate open, the hot sun and humidity it kept on fogging my glasses up and had sweat running down into my eyes. not to mention the occasional dog walking by on a leash wanting to see what I'm doing and afraid that he would eat one of the tools or the screws. feels good to have it done
 

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I spent yesterday and today working on an Equalizer Hitch I purchased off Craigslist and I am flipping the axles on my Utility Trailer, it give it a lift. Yep, I purchased new Spring Pads and will Mig Weld them on and remount.

Tore the hitch down, wire brushed and sanded.... prepping for new paint.


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Nice, I flipped the mounting on a travel trailer a few years ago and also just made spring plates out of 3/4" flat bar I had lying around. I CANNOT stand the spring plates trailer supplies try to sell you --- too thin and deform when you try to obtain correct torque for u-bolt diameter.
 
This afternoon it's 92F with no breeze. 🥵

Got rid of all the empty pots (many still had soil in them) scattered around the outside of house; swept up and sprayed for pests around the perimeter of the house with Ortho Home Defense. These are places the dog never investigates. Still, I keep the treated area limited to
I recently noticed that the sprayer that Ortho provides is now a trigger sprayer head. I glad I kept the older battery powered sprayer they used to provide.

Now that I have a working floor jack, tomorrow I may change the oil and do a drain/refill on the Lexus. It's forecast to be only 86F. I'd already be dead if I was in Arizona.
Got the oil changed in the Lexus. This OCI = 6,684 miles. Yes, premature - I thought the "Trip A" read ~8k last time I looked. The car is short tripped so I'm justifying it as OK.

It was only 80F but there was a stiff breeze. Working out on the driveway was kinda messy. The wind would gust and spray the stream of oil everywhere. Putting up another piece of cardboard up as a wind break wasn't much help.

Out:
  • Castrol GTX Magnatec 5w-30
  • Denso 150-2016 filter
In:
  • Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30
  • Denso 150-2010 filter
Useless drivel:
  • Denso 150-2016 (obsolete) = Toyota 90915-YZZD3 (tall version)
  • Denso 150-2010 = Toyota 90915-YZZD1 (short version)
  • These particular P/N Denso filters have metal end caps
  • These particular P/N Toyota filters have no end caps
  • The reason I don't stockpile fluids. They either get lost or I don't get around to using it - note the date codes (non-issue for me):
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2011 jug: pre-Dexos. 2016 single: Dexos 1. The furthest I'll walk down Frankenbrew Blvd.
 
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