Waiting on a call from a friend whose heat in a Subaru is not working. I will be checking the basics, then take if from there, depending on what time he calls.
I saw earlier but has two damaged exhaust bosses.
I'm going out on a limb and say unfortunately you divulged and it's used for mixing.I can’t divulge what the mixer is used for unfortunately.
Obviously its used for mixing. Just can't say what the product is that is mixed. Not sure that it's proprietary but not a chance I'm willing to take.I'm going out on a limb and say unfortunately you divulged and it's used for mixing.![]()
Another full night tonight at work, 3 broken mixer arms to be straightened and welded back on. All stainless but we’re not required to be. It’s just an old second hand horizontal mixer so a few passes with 7018 got it all stuck together again. I can’t divulge what the mixer is used for unfortunately.
Second, had a center carrier bearing fail on a leveling auger in a seed bin. Gotta pull both end bearings and the drive chain then drop one end to gain enough length in the bin to separate the two halves. This used to have a split wood carrier bearing that could be replaced with only a few bolts removed but it wouldn’t last long. It would eat through the wood then destroy the brackets. The pillow block bearing is much harder to change but lasts a year or better.
Both of these are “confined spaces” so there’s a lot of paperwork and extra people that have to be involved to do the job.
I do most of my fit up with 6010 and weld out with 7018. When I do a lot of horizontal work I prefer 7024. I have a scale redeck coming up where we will probably burn 100-200 pounds of 7024 rod.7018's weld so darn nice, but are a bit of a pain in the rear to actually strike! I like using 6013's, but the slag pooling makes it very difficult to see and get a good weld. I've pretty much abandoned using them and just deal with the aggravation of striking the arc of the 7018's.