Waiting on a call from a friend whose heat in a Subaru is not working. I will be checking the basics, then take if from there, depending on what time he calls.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
The Grand Prix is back on the road, with a first time (Historical) registration and plate
In NY, you have to get your insurance company to send you POI with HISTORICAL or CLASSIC on it, otherwise you can't have historical plates
On with the plates and sticker, $10 for a safety only inspection and it's street legal
It's been in driveway prison since last June
Took it for a wash, and doesn't it look tired
Maybe this summer I'll finally invest in putting it back together properly, and a stop at a detail place for a good compounding
Picked up this one year old 3000 psi briggs power washer not running and "as is" for $60 off the market place.
a hour or two draining the old white gas out of the tank and carb, plus a disassembly of said carb and cleaned with carb cleaner re assembled and it runs and operates perfectly. Also changed the oil Synthetic 10W30.
a hour or two draining the old white gas out of the tank and carb, plus a disassembly of said carb and cleaned with carb cleaner re assembled and it runs and operates perfectly. Also changed the oil Synthetic 10W30.
wrapped up a battery install on a friend’s Forester. Out with the leaky Costco JCI that also caused corrosion on the battery shelf and hold-down. Cleaned up the shelf, used Behr flat black spray paint leftover roofing project(Rust-Oleum or PPG single-stage in a SprayMax can would be better), it matched the Subaru underhood black. Hold down got a bath in Ospho and got the same spray paint treatment. Installed a Deka, greased the terminals.
Also put the bike on a trainer. Installed a special tire just to spin the legs on a trainer. Had a friend lace up a new rim and spokes onto an existing hub - long story but I wrecked the rear wheel while the bike was on a rear rack.
Also put the bike on a trainer. Installed a special tire just to spin the legs on a trainer. Had a friend lace up a new rim and spokes onto an existing hub - long story but I wrecked the rear wheel while the bike was on a rear rack.
Changed valve cover gaskets on my sister in laws 2004 Taurus. There was a split in the old gasket, and it was basically dumping oil directly onto the catalytic converter. Made for a wonderful smell and quite the smoke show! Car is finally starting to show its age at 210,000 miles in Michigan!
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Picked up 4 rain barrels, jerry-rigged a diverter in a downspout.
Also, did most of a 60K service on a friend’s car. Except for brake fluid, PSF, zerks and inspection. At least there’s fresh ATF/gear oil, transfer case fluid and new oil.
Also, did most of a 60K service on a friend’s car. Except for brake fluid, PSF, zerks and inspection. At least there’s fresh ATF/gear oil, transfer case fluid and new oil.
I saw earlier but has two damaged exhaust bosses.
Freshen up an airbag for the 993. I do not like the base 4 spoke wheel Porsche used in the 90's so I'm replacing it w/ the OE option 3 spoke wheel. I had a nice 3 spoke laying around (for just such an occasion) and bought a used but very nice OE leather covered airbag from a low miles Cabriolet. I winced a bit at the $3K+ price for a new one so I figured I would give this approach a shot. The emblem looks cloudy as I put a film over it during the work.
The used 'bag was in VG condition, but a bit faded so I tried my hand at refinishing. I was concerned about using a solvent-based dye on such a thin glued piece of leather, so I did some reading and settled on Feibeing's water based penetrating dye and acrylic wax satin top coat finish. Lots of prep and finish work later and very, very happy with the results; looks like new and the sheen is almost indistinguishable from original. We'll see how durable the finish is but looks great at this point.
Current wheel;
The used 'bag was in VG condition, but a bit faded so I tried my hand at refinishing. I was concerned about using a solvent-based dye on such a thin glued piece of leather, so I did some reading and settled on Feibeing's water based penetrating dye and acrylic wax satin top coat finish. Lots of prep and finish work later and very, very happy with the results; looks like new and the sheen is almost indistinguishable from original. We'll see how durable the finish is but looks great at this point.
Current wheel;
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Handles ugh. All done but the sink cabinet. One thing for sure I better not quit my day job. Before this knocked out the lower bearing on the washer hopefully those show up quick.
Another full night tonight at work, 3 broken mixer arms to be straightened and welded back on. All stainless but we’re not required to be. It’s just an old second hand horizontal mixer so a few passes with 7018 got it all stuck together again. I can’t divulge what the mixer is used for unfortunately.
Second, had a center carrier bearing fail on a leveling auger in a seed bin. Gotta pull both end bearings and the drive chain then drop one end to gain enough length in the bin to separate the two halves. This used to have a split wood carrier bearing that could be replaced with only a few bolts removed but it wouldn’t last long. It would eat through the wood then destroy the brackets. The pillow block bearing is much harder to change but lasts a year or better.
Both of these are “confined spaces” so there’s a lot of paperwork and extra people that have to be involved to do the job.
Second, had a center carrier bearing fail on a leveling auger in a seed bin. Gotta pull both end bearings and the drive chain then drop one end to gain enough length in the bin to separate the two halves. This used to have a split wood carrier bearing that could be replaced with only a few bolts removed but it wouldn’t last long. It would eat through the wood then destroy the brackets. The pillow block bearing is much harder to change but lasts a year or better.
Both of these are “confined spaces” so there’s a lot of paperwork and extra people that have to be involved to do the job.
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I'm going out on a limb and say unfortunately you divulged and it's used for mixing.
7018's weld so darn nice, but are a bit of a pain in the rear to actually strike! I like using 6013's, but the slag pooling makes it very difficult to see and get a good weld. I've pretty much abandoned using them and just deal with the aggravation of striking the arc of the 7018's.
I do most of my fit up with 6010 and weld out with 7018. When I do a lot of horizontal work I prefer 7024. I have a scale redeck coming up where we will probably burn 100-200 pounds of 7024 rod.
Put a new flag pole and flag up, flags are gettin pricey! Put up the hood, that was not fun. Might of set a bag on fire. Now have to vent it outside.
Swapped the rear pads on my Sportwagen. EBC Yellowstuff out that weren't done but I don't want to have to swap pads at the track days I'm doing soon so went ahead and changed them out for a new set. Sending back to FCP Euro for a refund with their Lifetime Replacement.
Installed a new 12 inch subwoofer plus stuffed the roughly 2 ft.³ sealed sub enclosed box with poly-fill then readjusted the gain/input sensitivity and LP pass fq's on the JL audio amp.. sounds really great, and can hit if you want it to! & huge shout out to @researcher for his detailed responses in my audio thread and no pun intended "amping" me up
