What are we using for chain lube?

[js12337]

Are the dry-film moly options really that limited? Perhaps the experts could point us to a wider range of product offerings that hit the mark. There seems to have been a lot said about what doesn't work, please tell us what does and that is readily available. Curious what the consistency of the Scheaffers product is when it dries/sets up. Heavy, tacky, thin, light, powdery?

Anyone tried MFR/Prolink chain lube from ProGold? Not a moly formulation but the marketing materials state it is a metal bonding lubricant. Very thin and light.

I'd also be interested in views on how effective are self lubricating chains are such as a Tsubaki Lambda chain. These have pins and bushings with lube impregnated into the metal surfaces.

I don't use an o-ring chain in my application and would like to find what is best for a standard roller chain.

 

[snakyjake]

Just remember that DuPont Chain Saver contains both moly and Teflon. I don't believe the other chain oils do. And some don't have moly.

DuPont Chain Saver has more moly and Teflon that the DuPont Multipurpose.

DuPont works for both o-ring and non o-ring.

 

[js12337]

What about these, do they qualify as high solids content, yet thin enough to penetrate to the pin and bushing?

Sprayon Dry Moly Lube is a high solids, molybdenum disulfide coating that withstands high pressures. This product bonds to all clean surfaces that are not adversely affected by alcohol or aromatic hydrocarbons, such as toluene or xylene.
•NSF reg. no. 131583; H2 rated
•Penetrates pores of substrate and bonds to surface for long-lasting lubrication
•High-pressure, high-solids molybdenum disulfide coating
•Withstands pressures up to 50,000 psi
•Air dries in 5-10 minutes; cures in 2 hours at room temperature
•Maintains effectiveness under high temperatures (650°F constant and 750°F intermittent)
•Non-conductive
•Equipped with EZ TOUCH® Standard Nozzle
•Coefficient of friction is .23 per ASTM D4518
•Works as a boundary lube as cold as -200°F

LPSFORCE 842° ® Dry Moly Lubricant
Works under extreme high temperatures (842°F) & pressures 100,000 psi (6,890 bars)

Dry film resists dirt & dust

Provides excellent water & chemical resistance

High adhesion

Use for assembly & break-in lubrication applications

Prevents seizures
Water and chemical resistant
Contains molybdenum disulfide

 

[DB_Cooper]

js12337, I use a Tsubaki QR Pro Gold on my machine. Non O ring as there is not room for an O ring chain in chaincase.

I have had very good luck with Liquid Wrench Industrial Chain Lube, available at some of the FLAPS.

Good news, it has a large amount of Moly. Down and up side is: It goes on like water and you need to collect it in some newspapers under the chain. The up side is that it will penetrate the rollers and pins and becomes like a 90w gear oil once it sits overnight. Good thing it is cheap, like $5 a 15oz can. My chain adjustments are far less frequent using this. It states on the can "not for use with motorcycle O ring chains" so if you are old school with your chain, this may work well for you.

 

[Ken2]

Originally Posted By: snakyjake
Just remember that DuPont Chain Saver contains both moly and Teflon. I don't believe the other chain oils do. And some don't have moly.

DuPont Chain Saver has more moly and Teflon that the DuPont Multipurpose.

DuPont works for both o-ring and non o-ring.

DuPont's MSDSs for both products show the same amount of Teflon and no moly. Calcium Stearate is present, perhaps as a flow agent to keep the Teflon bits flowing. Naptha is a solvent, paraffin wax, petroleum distilates, and the Teflon.
http://msds.dupont.com/msds/pdfs/EN/PEN_09004a35802b4fc7.pdf
http://msds.dupont.com/msds/pdfs/EN/PEN_09004a2f8061fd03.pdf

The dry moly sprays may or may not have enough volatile solvent to allow the moly to get between the roller and bushing.

 

[snakyjake]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
DuPont's MSDSs for both products show the same amount of Teflon and no moly. Calcium Stearate is present, perhaps as a flow agent to keep the Teflon bits flowing. Naptha is a solvent, paraffin wax, petroleum distilates, and the Teflon.
http://msds.dupont.com/msds/pdfs/EN/PEN_09004a35802b4fc7.pdf
http://msds.dupont.com/msds/pdfs/EN/PEN_09004a2f8061fd03.pdf

The dry moly sprays may or may not have enough volatile solvent to allow the moly to get between the roller and bushing.


According to webBikeWorld and DuPont, they contain moly and Teflon, and Chain Saver contains more of both.

The article also says:
Quote:

...DuPont is counting on Chain-Saver to be the "real" chain lube, so the thicker formulation, more Teflon and moly and calcium stearate make sense.


Jake

 

[Aquaticentipede]

Here's the Dupont Product Data Sheet: LINK, which indicates that it does contains "organic" molybdenum.

 

[FZ1]

Maxima

 

[js12337]

What about dunking a chain in something like Slip Plate, graphite based dry film coating?

Or perhaps Dri-slide, a moly dry film coating?

 

[DB_Cooper]

With a non O ring chain, my buddy has a Vincent Black Shadow, and he rides it almost as a daily driver. It has, as they designed it, only an industrial narrow 530 chain.
Even with the stock chain oilier(sprays engine oil on the chain as you ride) he had wear and he broke a chain while riding. Chain was wet with oil in the road.

Once the chain was replaced, he now removes it every 1000 miles or so and cooks the chain in a pot with high moly gear oil. He sprays it down with the Moly chain lube when on a long ride.

He has turned the chain oilier off as it made a mess anyways.

To answer your question. With a modern, quality high performance chain, I don't think you need to remove it and dunk it. Keep it well lubed with a moly lube that will get down inside the pins and rollers.

Dri-slide seems to loose its carrier liquid very quickly. Maybe not.

High quality moly is the answer on a non O ring chain. It will keep the wear down to a minimum.

Be sure your sprockets are in very good condition too. Any wear on the sprockets will stretch a new chain quickly, no matter how well lubricated it is.

 

[Gunatics_Adler]

I am using Bel Ray chain lubes and loving them. When i am broke or I run out I can run the Gunk chain lube O Reillys carries. Not as good but it does the job on my X ring 520 chain.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

1 Clean chain with simple green
2 rinse with water
3 Take bike fore a ride long enuff to get chain warm or put on stand and run in first.
4 APPLY TRI-FLOW
5 wipe down with rag
6 let sit overnite
7 *optional* .. re-coat with chain wax or your choice of "no fly off" lube.

Ive done this for 10 years to my bikes, ive NEVER been forced to replace a chain on a street bike. Ive replaced 2 chains just for conversion purposes on my race bikes for less drive weight .. It works for me. after 5-6 hundred miles repeat process

 

[snakyjake]

I've had the chance to do a short term compare between Motorex Fully Synthetic Chainlube (622) and DuPont Chain Saver (yellow can).

Everything people said about DuPont is echoed. The major noticeable difference to me is how much more quiet the chain is with DuPont than Motorex. Assuming that most of the oils will do the job, I'm now more focused on reducing chain noise.

I'd like to try Amsoil and Bel-Ray at some point. Anyone have experience between DuPoint and Amsoil and can comment on chain noise?

Jake

 

[positron007]

I have tried both Silkolene Titanium Chain Gel and Motul Factory Line Chain Lube.
The Motul Factory Line Chain Lube is definitely superior to the Silkolene product I tried.
I can't comment on any other product because I have not tried anything else. I really like the Motul Factory Line Chain Lube

 

[snakyjake]

Since my chain has o-rings, I really wonder if the only advantage to oiling the chain is to prevent rust.

 

[Redline955]

Originally Posted By: snakyjake
Since my chain has o-rings, I really wonder if the only advantage to oiling the chain is to prevent rust.


The reason for chain lube is to lubricate the outside of the rollers/o-rings and to cushion the chain sprocket interface. I use Bel-Ray and have for years.

 

[snakyjake]

With a hot chain, spinning 1000's of RPM's, lots of pressure, I'm not convinced there's a lot the oil is doing.

 

[Robenstein]

Well my chain is quieter when lubed, and honestly, dont lube a chain and see how long it lasts verus one properly lubed. Many chain lubes have extreme pressure anti wear additives that help the sprocket to chain interface wear less.

 

[snakyjake]

Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Many chain lubes have extreme pressure anti wear additives that help the sprocket to chain interface wear less.


Where my chain and sprocket contact is shiny, so I'm not seeing anti-wear additives or oil.

I'm not saying there isn't any protection, just saying I don't know, and doesn't look like it to me. Back when I rode bicycles I oiled to prevent rust and because I didn't have o-ring.

Would be interesting to see a study done.

 

[Mackelroy]

There are two motoerex 622's, the one im familiar with is the Strong street type.

Everyone keeps talking about the chain of the drive system, totally forgetting how important that the sprockets have need no metal to metal contact to avoid accelerated wear .

Dry lubes, offer minimal metal to metal contact Film strength, and just a touch of water that coverage is gone..

The main reason people like the dry lube its so clean.

Lubricant on an oring itself, will have some benefit with rust and keeping an oring pliable, but oring chains rust from the inside out after the internal lube oxidises and drys up.


Does it matter that someone has never replaced a street bike chain. You take some who's replaced dosen of street sprockets, and quelched that number by 2/3rds, and then you have someone with experience, because of that change and reduced wear.

You see some people can only get 10,000 mile out of a chain and some 30,000 mile out of a chain, and it may have nothing to do with the lubricant. You really want to know when your quelching wear , look to your sprockets.