My Walmart always has a lot of QUSUD 5W20 and 5W30 available on the shelf ...My vehicles can use either weight , so with Quaker State Ultimate Durability what specifically am I missing (additives wise ) that should sway me use to M1 or Pennzoil Synthetics (when I can find them in my weight(s) at Walmart) ? Applications are typical suburban commuter / grocery getter ( '10 Hyundai Elantra PFI engine , '07 Kia Sedona PFI engine)running standard OCI of 6 months / 6500 ~ 7500 miles with Wix filters . No turbo or DI engines to contend with - your thoughts ?
What Am I Missing With Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w20 / 5W30 ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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I'd pay more attention to how the oil makes the car feel than what additive package it has. And I'd definitely choose the 5w30 over 5W-20.
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
No turbo or DI engines to contend with - your thoughts ?
Buy the least expensive oil that you care to use. In Georgia, any API SN 5W-20 or 5w30 is fine...conventional, synthetic...it really doesn't matter here. Even Quaker State Ultimate Durability is pretty overkill for your application. The Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 has a lot of OEM certifications including those for some turbocharged engines; it's way more than enough for your use.
I'd personally buy a 5-quart jug of Pennzoil or Havoline in 5w30 and call it good.
No turbo or DI engines to contend with - your thoughts ?
Buy the least expensive oil that you care to use. In Georgia, any API SN 5W-20 or 5w30 is fine...conventional, synthetic...it really doesn't matter here. Even Quaker State Ultimate Durability is pretty overkill for your application. The Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 has a lot of OEM certifications including those for some turbocharged engines; it's way more than enough for your use.
I'd personally buy a 5-quart jug of Pennzoil or Havoline in 5w30 and call it good.
I've been using 5W20 Shell and Quaker State Synthetic oils in my 2011 Kia 2.0L and 2.4L with no issues. I buy when on sale at Menard's and BJs Club. Usually pay $3.50/qt or less.
However, always use M1 or Syntec 0W40 in my 2005 1.8T Audi because of VW 502.00 requirements.
However, always use M1 or Syntec 0W40 in my 2005 1.8T Audi because of VW 502.00 requirements.
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Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
No turbo or DI engines to contend with - your thoughts ?
Buy the least expensive oil that you care to use. In Georgia, any API SN 5W-20 or 5w30 is fine...conventional, synthetic...it really doesn't matter here. I'd personally buy a 5-quart jug of Pennzoil or Havoline in 5w30 and call it good.
+1
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
No turbo or DI engines to contend with - your thoughts ?
Buy the least expensive oil that you care to use. In Georgia, any API SN 5W-20 or 5w30 is fine...conventional, synthetic...it really doesn't matter here. I'd personally buy a 5-quart jug of Pennzoil or Havoline in 5w30 and call it good.
+1
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You are missing nothing with Quaker State Ultimate Durability.
Enjoy either grade.
Enjoy either grade.
Thanks for the replies ... Interesting to note my Walmart has replaced a lot of synthetic 5w20 oils (M1 , PP , etc.) with 0w20 oils which Kia / Hyundai have not authorized , while Quaker State Ultimate Durability is always available in 5w20 .
Additive wise?basicly the less metal count the better.(usually.why you think the market created coolant without nitrate phosphate or silicate.yep wear)
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
The only thing missing is pouring some Quaker State Ultimate Durability in your car.
It's good stuff, available, and a good buy.
The only thing missing is pouring some Quaker State Ultimate Durability in your car.
It's good stuff, available, and a good buy.
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