Weapon Shield VOA

[Tempest]

Chloro parrifin 27-32%
ZDDP about 1%
Ca Sufonate 0.5-1% depends on TBN level od CA sulfonate used
Base oil Low or Mid VI could be ester

Vis@40 33.4
Vis@ 100 5.0
VI 59

Phos 688 ppm
Zinc 802 ppm
CA 1334 ppm
other metals TBN D 2896 1.59


Bruce was kind enough to do the VOA and chlor count. Comments are his.

VI and TBN are both lower than I expected and would like.

 

[turbodieselfreak]

I'm a newbie at interpreting analyses-what's yours? Calcium sulfonate was an ingredient in the castrol/hoppes synthetic gunlube, which I loved but I'm sure is discontinued. I've been using weaponshield for a little bit, and so far I luv the stuff.

 

[Mystic]

Okay, Tempest. Thanks for having a VOA done on WeaponShield. Now what does all of this mean?

At least there are actual chemical additives in the product. I bet if tests were run on a lot of gun oils the results would find little if any chemical additives at all. But I don't like the 27-32% chloro parrifin. I would guess that is used as some sort of wear reducer but I would prefer if they used something else that would reduce wear. Surely there are other chemical additives that would provide antiwear/extreme pressure protection. The ZDDP is an antiwear product.

For as much money as they charge for these various gun oils why can't somebody develop a synthetic gun oil that has quality EP/AW additives? Such additives are developed for automotive use in motor oils, greases, and gear oils. Maybe because of the nature of guns it would be hard to develop such additives? I don't know. You tell me.

Like I have said before I really would prefer using oil on my guns rather than grease, but I am close to concluding that grease is the way to go. But if I could find an oil that would get the job done and be safe to use I would use that gun oil.

Now you have already done a lot of testing with WeaponShield. You said you fired a lot of rounds before putting new lubricate on the gun. So I guess we can conclude that WeaponShield works. Now can somebody tell me if that 27-32% chloro parrifin is safe or not both for the gun and me. Any chemists?

 

[Mystic]

Another thing I have considered doing is lubing my gun with just Hoppes gun oil until I get ready to go the the range. Right before going to the range I would lube the gun with WeaponShield. While the gun is in the holster not being fired for a period of time the Hoppes would be good enough. It would be easy enough to wipe the Hoppes off and put WeaponShield on before any shooting.

But if the chemists out there can assure me WeaponShield is safe to use both for the gun and me then I would just use WeaponShield.

I don't know if GLube is like WeaponShield or not and maybe it has chloro parrifin also. But I found GLube to be a very effective gun oil also.

Some other oils I have tried include RemOil, Hoppes regular gun oil, Hoppes Elite, and Birchwood Casey gun oil. I would guess that RemOil is mainly a light mineral oil with some solvent and that Hoppes regular is probably mostly just a refined mineral oil. Hoppes Elite is supposed to have antiwear additive and is synthetic and Birchwood Casey is synthetic and has PTFE.

At Glockmeister they were saying in the ad for GLube that it was the most effective lubricant they had found.

 

[Tempest]

Glube?

According to Bruce, the high amount of chlor allows for faster film formation and high load bearing. It only becomes a potential problem after it has been cooked for some time (as in hours). Still, he does not like chlor products for guns.

I have yet to see a problem with its use and have seen no reports of rust on the net.

The main reason I use WS is for ease of cleaning but it's nice to know the AW/EP chemistry is there. The cleaning part is the most difficult part of making a CLP.

 

[Mystic]

Well, that is interesting. I too would prefer using oil because I don't think Glocks need much lubrication anyway and like you say it is easier cleaning when oil was used rather than grease. We can all agree I think that grease is messy.

So that kind of makes me think I will give WeaponShield a good test. It should be safe just lubricating the gun until I actually go out shooting and since I always clean my gun after shooting it would still be safe. I am not going to be shooting several hours in a row very often-although I have done that a few times.

But I never cared for the use of chlor parrifins. I wish they would look into something else. Maybe some day. There is no question that chlor parrifins are super lubricants. They discovered that a long time ago in the development of motor oil additives. But the stuff was rejected on safety and corrosion concerns.

 

[Mystic]

Guess I should add that for keeping the outside of the Glock slide from rusting I use a very light coating of Hoppes regular gun oil or else a silcone cloth. So all of the WeaponShield would be inside the gun. And only about six drops of WeaponShield. That is all a Glock requires.

 

[Saturn_Fan]

Originally Posted By: Mystic
Guess I should add that for keeping the outside of the Glock slide from rusting I use a very light coating of Hoppes regular gun oil or else a silcone cloth. So all of the WeaponShield would be inside the gun. And only about six drops of WeaponShield. That is all a Glock requires.


For my guns I use a few drops of WepShield in critical friction points, and finish it off by spraying it all down with Eezox, which is what I consider one of the best rust preventative sprays you can buy.

 

[Tempest]

Use it everywhere inside the gun. You will be amazed at how easy it is to clean, especially after you have used it for a while.

 

[Mystic]

I don't know about using two high-tech products at the same time. They might have chemistry that interferes with each other.

I think it is a different story with stuff that is not high tech. I have used regular Hoppes gun oil with grease on critical parts of the gun at the same time. Maybe Hoppes regular oil and some of that copper based lubricant like what they put on new Glocks used at the same time would be okay.

It would be interesting to find out what additives, if any, are in some other gun oils like Hoppes Elite.

It sure would be nice if gun oils were brought into the 21st Century. Actually stuff like guns and bicycles are fairly important (bicycles might become a lot more important before too long in this country) but there seems to be little research into lubrication needs for guns or bicycles.

Sometimes I say to myself I will just use Hoppes No. 9 and Hoppes gun oil and replace whatever wears out on a gun. Just like the old days. Or maybe use Hoppes gun oil with a little bit of grease in the important areas.

 

[harrydog]

I thought that chloro parrifin was one of the complaints about Militec-1?
Was a VOA ever done for Militec?

 

[Mystic]

I don't remember any VOA here on Militec-1. I do remember hearing somewhere where there is supposed to be chloro parrifin in it but I can't say for sure. If you go to the Militec-1 website they claim a lot of soldiers in Iraq were using Militec-1 instead of what the military was supplying. Does anybody know if that is true?

 

[harrydog]

I think it is true. I know that Larry Vickers really likes both Militec-1 and TW25B based on how they performed during his spec-ops days in Iraq/Afghanistan, etc.
I personally think Militec-1 works great as a lube. Working the action on my guns is noticeably smoother with Militec-1 than with anything else I've tried, including Weapon Shield. But I started using Weapon Shield on most of my guns because it supposedly didn't contain the chlorinated stuff that Miltic-1 contained. Now I'm not sure what to use.

 

[Tempest]

Quote:
But I started using Weapon Shield on most of my guns because it supposedly didn't contain the chlorinated stuff that Miltic-1 contained.

The WS site says that it contains halogenated hydrocarbons right on the first page.

Militec gets cute by saying that they don't have any chlorinated paraffins...when what they have is chlorinated olefins.

 

[Saturn_Fan]

On gun boards I go to, the Militec-1 product has caused a lot of rust problems on safe queens, FWIW. Wouldn't touch the stuff.

 

[Triaged]

So what is the big deal about Chlorinated Paraffin in a gun oil? In engines I have read that it can cause lead bearing wear. In a firearm we call that fouling and want it gone. Is the CP what helps it clean so well? I still haven't ran out of the FP-10 that I bought years ago but was thinking of getting Weapon Shield when that is all used up.

 

[Mystic]

There are two issues with chlorinated paraffin that I am aware of. Probably the most important is that supposedly there is a cancer risk.

The other issue is that supposedly chlorinated paraffins can cause corrosion.

Personally if I thought a product presented a serious cancer risk I would use something like Hoppes gun oil. I would rather have a gun wear out than get cancer.

And if a product at first lubricates really well but somewhere down the road you have to worry about corrosion and strange wear I can live without all of that also.

I would rather avoid chlorinated paraffins myself. There are gun oils that don't use it as far as I know like regular Hoppes gun oil, Hoppes Elite, Birchwood Casey synthetic gun oil, and Breakfree. I got some strange results when I tested Breakfree. A guy said that Breakfree is the recommended lubricant for both SIGs and Glocks. I would guess that all of these gun oils are roughly comparable but the synthetics of course probably flow much better in cold weather. Hoppes Elite is supposed to have some antiwear added and Breakfree and Birchwood Casey have PTFE.

One gun oil I have never tested is GunKote (I think that is what it is called) from the same people who make Tufoil. Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat said (in two videos that I have) that he felt that the GunKote was the best PTFE containing oil he had tested. I don't know if anybody has tried this product or not.

 

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: Mystic
And if a product at first lubricates really well but somewhere down the road you have to worry about corrosion and strange wear I can live without all of that also.


I used 75W-140 synthetic gear lube on my guns for a while and I haven't seen any corrosion or cracked metal. I was told that it contains some nasty stuff that could cause those problems. It lubed better than anything else I've ever used, so I'm wondering just how bad it could really be?

 

[Mystic]

Well, somebody put an article about gun lubricates from Grant Cunningham here. Cunningham is (was?) a builder of custom revolvers. He said that a company used chlorinated esters in machinery used to build guns and when owners used chlorinated esters to lubricate the guns barrels actually fell off.

You can find the article by looking for it here or probably better just type in Grant Cunningham and find his website.

The first thing I would worry about is any health risks. The second thing I would worry about would be corrosion issues.

Sometimes I think a person is better off just using a standard gun solvent like Hoppes No. 9 and a standard or fairly standard gun oil like Hoppes regular gun oil or Hoppes Elite synthetic gun oil and when parts wear just replace the parts. And forget about all the exotic super lubes.

 

[CITYSLICKER]

FWIW the cancer risk has been linked to short chain chlorinated para's , the long chain variety is supposed to be relatively benign .

Bruce advised against chlorinated para's due to metal staining and corrosion concerns .

If you are in a pinch for gun lube , synthetic motor oil actually works pretty well . A rather well known ( at least in competition circles ) gunsmith has been quoted as saying " Mobil one on everything " .

Just random thoughts from some guy .

BTW I myself am searching for the holy grail of gunlubes and if I've learned anything in my experiments , it's that compounding lubricants is not nearly as simple as choosing the best ingredients and mixing them ...