Wdo Aussies and Europeans run thicker oils?

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At current exchange rates, this would equate to around $52-80 USD.
$52.00 US would get you two jugs of a 5W-30 Syn at Walmart here, in your choice of Synpower, M1 or PP.
QSUD is even cheaper here as is Mobil Super Synthetic.
The old school thick conventional oils are really cheap, with 15W-40 dual rated HDEOs like Rotella, Delvac, Valvoline Premium Blue or Delo going for around $12.00 per gallon jug.
I guess cost does influence selection and probably recommendations.
Toyota, Honda and the rest know that nobody (outside of BITOG) would consider spending the kind of money you're quoting on an oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Fair call (unless I'm misreading), but where do the manufacturers put that information on their websites...happy to be proven wrong, but that's not something I've come across.


Sometimes the information can be found on a manufacturer's website (i.e. if they have manuals available). Usually, it's difficult as you mention. That's why I always like to see the pictures of manuals posted.

But, one picture that I posted before (the Audi 200 manual) shows that 5w-20 isn't all that new, nor does it show the Germans are afraid of thin oils.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Europe is subject to the same CO2 reductions as Japan. We'll probably see thinner oils become more common in the EU states. This chart is interesting. It basically shows you should not run a 5W or 10W oil unless it gets really cold (below 0).
kia_oil.jpg

ou wonder.


*1 For better fuel economy use SAE 5W-20. If its not distributed in your country, choose an oil based on the chart. (Essentially, 5W-20 is recommended, the rest are options.)
*2 Says not to use 5W-20 in the Middle East. (Likely, heat related.)
*3 In the Middle East, use 5W-30.


Just for anyone curious. Nowhere does it say that 5W and 10W oils are "only recommended" for when it gets cold. Its saying if you have 5W-30, its better then 10W-30, and if you only have 10W-30, here's some vague parameters so you know its sub-optimal in the cold. That's it.

Whats funny is they say 5W-30 over 5W-20 in the freakin' Middle East and some people out there would be convinced you still need a 40 or a 50 weight in cars (Ie: Australia :p).
 
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I will say this for kia:
Atleast they dont shove one oil grade down your throat like ford. They actually let you make your own decision.
My neighbor lady has the same chart in her users manual.....but it gets PP 5/30 all year.
 
Hello everyone. As a former yank living in Australia now, this is exactly the topic ive been looking for.

The Toyota manual for my late 2006 Camry Sportivo 2.4 (equals 2007 US Camry SE) recommends 10W30, 15W40 and 20W50 for temps above 20F. 5W30 is only recommended when temps are *below* 50F. I believe this same engine in the US is recommended 5W30 or 5W20 per TSB i think? For those curious, there is no oil grade on the cap, unlike US cars?

Quite the difference! Our weather here isnt that much different then say Arizona in the summer. It can be 35F in winter on up to 120F during a summer heatwave.

Since ive owned the car (about a year) Ive settled on Castrol 10W30 GTX. I will try Mobil 1 EP 10W30 next OC.

Thanks for the discussions on this!
 
Originally Posted By: jccsyd
Hello everyone. As a former yank living in Australia now, this is exactly the topic ive been looking for.

The Toyota manual for my late 2006 Camry Sportivo 2.4 (equals 2007 US Camry SE) recommends 10W30, 15W40 and 20W50 for temps above 20F. 5W30 is only recommended when temps are *below* 50F. I believe this same engine in the US is recommended 5W30 or 5W20 per TSB i think? For those curious, there is no oil grade on the cap, unlike US cars?

Quite the difference! Our weather here isnt that much different then say Arizona in the summer. It can be 35F in winter on up to 120F during a summer heatwave.

Since ive owned the car (about a year) Ive settled on Castrol 10W30 GTX. I will try Mobil 1 EP 10W30 next OC.

Thanks for the discussions on this!


Would you happen to know what engine it has? something along the lines of 1zzfe,etc? should help us yanks with a more direct comparison.

(quick jaunt to wikipedia suggests a 2AZ-FE)
 
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This is a good article to read about oil viscosity, fuel economy and wear factors from Machinery and lubrication.
Oil viscosity article.

A few important extracts:
But somewhat thicker oils may offer more protection for more severe operations such as driving through mountains, pulling a boat, dusty conditions, short trips, high rpm, overloading, overheating and overcooling.
Any abrasive particles equal to or larger than the oil film thickness will cause wear. Filters are necessary to keep contaminants small. The other side of the equation is oil film thickness. Thicker oil films can accommodate larger contaminants.

Every fluid is a compromise. Oils recommended by the auto manufacturers seem to compromise protection from wear under severe conditions to gain fuel economy and catalyst durability. It is important to recognize that to use a product that offers more protection from wear will most likely compromise your warranty. Thicker oils also compromise cold temperature flow, which may be of concern depending upon climate and season.

The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker (such as SAE 10W-30 or 15W-40) and has more antiwear additives than the oils that support the warranty. The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, but it is not necessarily the type of oil specified in the owner’s manual or stamped on the dipstick.
 
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Originally Posted By: RiceCake
Shannow making me laugh hysterically at coining yet another one of his "slogan terms" for people who don't take his side (everyone is a 'strawman'. What the [censored] is that anyways?)...


As a mod on many of the world's biggest sites, you aren't familiar with the arguing technique of putting arguments in other people's mouths then "defeating" that argument ?

Originally Posted By: RiceCake
... and nothing will explode.


Originally Posted By: RiceCake
and blame CAFE for ruining your motor.


Originally Posted By: RiceCake
"the government hates us, the EPA and CAFE are evil, all they are are bean counter 'strawmen',


Originally Posted By: RiceCake
I know you should really trust Top Tier fuels and the knowledge I gained about oil in the 70's.


Nope, I guess that you are familiar with the technique, and can use it with authoritah
 
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
Whats funny is they say 5W-30 over 5W-20 in the freakin' Middle East and some people out there would be convinced you still need a 40 or a 50 weight in cars (Ie: Australia :p).


5W-30 is not a very common viscosity in the Middle East. Only a handful of brands offer it, most of which are ACEA A3/B4 rated anyway.

An SN/GF-5 rated 5W-30 is not very common, and will likely be a synthetic like Kendall GT-1 5W-30 that's only available in one or two outlets. You're hard pushed to find it, much like 10W-60, which is offered by only two brands (Liqui Moly and Castrol) anyway. 10W-30 is more common, but again, it's only available through Chrysler, Ford and GM parts networks under the Pennzoil/Mopar, Motorcraft and ACDelco brands.

10W-40, 15W-40 and 5W-40 are easier to get hold of, but most vehicles run Group I based 20W-50 anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
See?

World War III erupts.

Misinformation everywhere.


Here's who I do trust: the people I spent 20 grand buying a car from who tell me what oils I should run.

But everyone needs a political argument. If you hate the government its great to love 30 and 40 weights, because you can tell everyone you're smarter and blame CAFE for ruining your motor.


You must believe people live in Singapore then, they are the one who pay 100 grand for a Corolla and 400 grand for lexus LS460
grin.gif
and their dealer comes with 14 dollars per 4l jug bulk 10w-30 mineral oil, even though the lexus comes with 40dollar/4l jug 5w-40 synthetics made by UAE.
 
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Wdo Aussies and Europeans run thicker oils?


I spent the last ten years of my life pursuing an answer to this question. I've toured the German Organic chemistry labs, spoken to petroleum chemists at length, and obtained numerous CAFE related documents under the Freedom Of Information Act. My wife left me, my friends think I've lost it, and the family wonders why I fondle the 5 quart jugs, in the back corner of Walmart. After all this and only after this - did a crystal clear conclusion present itself:

When a conflict of interest is present - thinner is certainly better.

Under all other operating conditions - thicker is better.
 
One of the highly respected tribologists here put it in layman's terms awhile back,"Thicker oil provides better lubrication. Thinner provides better fuel economy. It's a compromise between protection and economy".
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
This is a good article to read about oil viscosity, fuel economy and wear factors from Machinery and lubrication.
Oil viscosity article.

A few important extracts:
But somewhat thicker oils may offer more protection for more severe operations such as driving through mountains, pulling a boat, dusty conditions, short trips, high rpm, overloading, overheating and overcooling.
Any abrasive particles equal to or larger than the oil film thickness will cause wear. Filters are necessary to keep contaminants small. The other side of the equation is oil film thickness. Thicker oil films can accommodate larger contaminants.

Every fluid is a compromise. Oils recommended by the auto manufacturers seem to compromise protection from wear under severe conditions to gain fuel economy and catalyst durability. It is important to recognize that to use a product that offers more protection from wear will most likely compromise your warranty. Thicker oils also compromise cold temperature flow, which may be of concern depending upon climate and season.

The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker (such as SAE 10W-30 or 15W-40) and has more antiwear additives than the oils that support the warranty. The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, but it is not necessarily the type of oil specified in the owner’s manual or stamped on the dipstick.



I've got that article in my inbox. Post the whole thing,not just a few excerpts that support your position.
Thinner oil is more than adequate if the operating temps remain within range. A thicker oil gives the engine more leeway if the oil temps get so hot that film strength is compromised.
You realize that 99% of us do NOT drive the engines hard enough to compromise film strength right. The entire article you chopped up touches on that. And in situations such as towing the OEM has provided these engines with oil coolers,so as to keep the oil cool.
Your copy and paste makes me laugh. You omit sections that don't strengthen your position and only post information that will.
Why wouldn't a person use the thinner variant and enjoy a more free revving and easier on gas engine,especially when the oem has built the vehicle with parts just for this purpose instead of using an oil that may be thicker than necessary,which restricts the moving parts.
Oh yeah. Because sunkship says so.
I'm still waiting for you to copy and paste some 4.6 engines that ran more miles on thicker oil than the oem specified oil.
Your argument is flawed. The data doesn't exist. You will not find a motor that lived longer on oil thicker than the oem specifies.
Ford mod motors for example. Since they are available on your continent please find some 400000km examples of them that have never been rebuilt. They will need at least that many kms because I can find 3 such examples in the subdivision I'm working in. The bodies are falling off them but the engines are running mint with no burning oil from the rings.
I can head er on down to the local cab companies and get their mileages of a few crown Victoria examples,all with easily 350000kms,running 20 grades.
Come on boy. Find some evidence to back up position. The criteria is simpler
Ford 4.6/5.4 litre engines
Over 350000kms.
Should be easy for you
Or is real world data tougher than copy and paste.
Go put some pants on.
Heck,I can walk out my front door and flag down the first crown Vic I see and its likely over 350k.
Come on boy,prove me wrong.
No one listens to you as of right now,maybe if you actually show some data you can scrounge some credibility. I doubt it but hey,any things possible.
You can write 5 paragraphs on phoney made up sunkship "facts", lets see what you can do with actual facts.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
One of the highly respected tribologists here put it in layman's terms awhile back,"Thicker oil provides better lubrication. Thinner provides better fuel economy. It's a compromise between protection and economy".


The only issue with that is it encourages people to think "fuel economy is ruining my motor". A better phrasing would be that thicker oil provides a better safety margin for certain types of oil stress. In terms of overall lubrication, thin or thick, offers adequate lubrication, as long as oil pressure is maintained.

But even then people start trying to call everything stressful on oil. Like "its hot outside when I drive, I better run a 40 weight like Baja racing trucks do" kinda conclusions.

Its important to not infer direct correlation of wear and fuel economy; thicker oil provides better "cushioning" when oil pressure is too low and engine load and demand are very high, and other situations where oil pressure will be plenty high and engine stress is negligible, thinner oils will benefit fuel economy by not dragging the engine.

That can't be stressed enough. Thin oils don't "unanimously" eat your motor. If you were racing they would, because they wouldn't be able to support the high demands you're putting on it, but a daily driver doesn't get caned at an autocross track either.

Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
5W-30 is not a very common viscosity in the Middle East. Only a handful of brands offer it, most of which are ACEA A3/B4 rated anyway.

An SN/GF-5 rated 5W-30 is not very common, and will likely be a synthetic like Kendall GT-1 5W-30 that's only available in one or two outlets. You're hard pushed to find it, much like 10W-60, which is offered by only two brands (Liqui Moly and Castrol) anyway. 10W-30 is more common, but again, it's only available through Chrysler, Ford and GM parts networks under the Pennzoil/Mopar, Motorcraft and ACDelco brands.

10W-40, 15W-40 and 5W-40 are easier to get hold of, but most vehicles run Group I based 20W-50 anyway.


This makes a ton of sense. It is the Middle East; 5W-30 sounds kinda redundant when the temperature is rather balmy. 10W-30 would probably be -everywhere- in that country, if not for 40 weights being very common. The entire 40 weight trend probably trickles down from European automakers reluctant to push things a little thinner when temperatures and driving conditions (Autobahns) are highly variable situations over there.
 
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[/quote]
The entire 40 weight trend probably trickles down from European automakers reluctant to push things a little thinner when temperatures and driving conditions (Autobahns) are highly variable situations over there. [/quote]

To the best of my knowledge Germany is the only country in Europe that has no speed limits. Most other countries range between 60 and 80mph with more being closer to 60 than 80. And the USA has highly variable temperatures and driving conditions as well.
 
Originally Posted By: harrydog
Quote:

The entire 40 weight trend probably trickles down from European automakers reluctant to push things a little thinner when temperatures and driving conditions (Autobahns) are highly variable situations over there.


To the best of my knowledge Germany is the only country in Europe that has no speed limits. Most other countries range between 60 and 80mph with more being closer to 60 than 80. And the USA has highly variable temperatures and driving conditions as well.


Isle of Man too! Abu Dhabi also had a road before 2011 with a modest speed limit of 100mph. I won't say the US doesn't have high temperatures, or people towing enormous loads, and other high stress situations, but clearly when fuel economy and emissions started pushing on engine manufacturers, going to thinner oils was easily done. Other countries have lagged a bit on that, maybe a combination of no incentive to go thinner, and unwillingness to given the volley of different countries in the area. As some have said though, Euro 30 weights and even 20 weights are (slowly) appearing (or reappearing). The general problem seems to be unavailability of the oil over anything.
 
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Originally Posted By: RiceCake
Originally Posted By: harrydog
Quote:

The entire 40 weight trend probably trickles down from European automakers reluctant to push things a little thinner when temperatures and driving conditions (Autobahns) are highly variable situations over there.


To the best of my knowledge Germany is the only country in Europe that has no speed limits. Most other countries range between 60 and 80mph with more being closer to 60 than 80. And the USA has highly variable temperatures and driving conditions as well.


Isle of Man too! Abu Dhabi also had a road before 2011 with a modest speed limit of 100mph. I won't say the US doesn't have high temperatures, or people towing enormous loads, and other high stress situations, but clearly when fuel economy and emissions started pushing on engine manufacturers, going to thinner oils was easily done. Other countries have lagged a bit on that, maybe a combination of no incentive to go thinner, and unwillingness to given the volley of different countries in the area. As some have said though, Euro 30 weights and even 20 weights are (slowly) appearing (or reappearing). The general problem seems to be unavailability of the oil over anything.

20 weight oils are available in the EU, but the car manufacturers provide the correct advice to customers outside of the US, so they are only recommended for a few new generation engines.
There was something of a general move from 40 to 30 grades in the past, although averaged out UOA and oil consumption results caused many owners to moved back to the 40's and nearly every Iffy lube or dealer lists a 40 grade for older cars that list 30 or 40 in their original specs.
 
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