Water Wetter

Whether it’s on the track or just a shade tree project, many people have modified their engines and thereby pushed the limits of the stock cooling system beyond its original designed capacity.

Then there are the numerous cases in the vintage car world where the stock cooling system does not have much of a safety margin for cooling capacity like modern cars enjoy.

In these cases the difference between a coolant temperature of 225 F and 235 F is going to be where a product like water wetter is beneficial, if not essential.

Saying it’s a waste of money is merely assuming one size fits all. We all don’t drive the same cookie-cutter cars.

Condemning the usefulness of these specialized products is exposing a very narrow viewpoint. One which over assumes and under thinks.

Z
 
Amsoil also makes something similar called Dominator Coolant Boost which claims to decrease warmup time, reduce peak operating temperature, help protect the various metals in the cooling system, and can be used with water alone or with the coolant mixture.

One comparison between WW and DCB is here:

I have been using DCB in my 03 Toyota for a few years now and have not had any issues. I do recall that after a few heat cycles of adding it to the system, it did seem to warm up to operating temperature a little quicker.
 
Whether it’s on the track or just a shade tree project, many people have modified their engines and thereby pushed the limits of the stock cooling system beyond its original designed capacity.

Then there are the numerous cases in the vintage car world where the stock cooling system does not have much of a safety margin for cooling capacity like modern cars enjoy.

In these cases the difference between a coolant temperature of 225 F and 235 F is going to be where a product like water wetter is beneficial, if not essential.

Saying it’s a waste of money is merely assuming one size fits all. We all don’t drive the same cookie-cutter cars.

Condemning the usefulness of these specialized products is exposing a very narrow viewpoint. One which over assumes and under thinks.

Z
None of which applies directly to the question being asked in this thread. The cooling system under consideration is not out of bounds as the one you describe. The product is a waste of money in this scenario, as it is for anyone who has a properly functioning cooling system.

If your cooling system is operating properly there is no way of product like this can lower the operating temperature. It’s impossible.

An easier and much more effective means of increasing heat transfer would be to lower your coolant concentration down to the minimum that’s acceptable for your ambient temperature. But even here, unless there’s something wrong with your cooling system or it’s poorly designed there’s no reason to do that either.
 
“… None of which applies directly to the question being asked in this thread. The cooling system under consideration is not out of bounds as the one you describe. The product is a waste of money in this scenario, as it is for anyone who has a properly functioning cooling system.

If your cooling system is operating properly there is no way of product like this can lower the operating temperature. It’s impossible…..”

Wrong.

Not only possible, but happens repeatedly. Most ICE’s have an operating temp above the thermostat opening point to varying degrees. WaterWetter can lower the coolant temp down closer to the rating of the thermostat opening point, more effectively in engines runnning less than 50% antifreeze; a qualifier that has been stated repeatedly.

I don’t see anyone suggesting that the product will lower the temp below the opening point of the thermostat.

BTW, Here is the first post. All replies I’ve made are relevant, as are the anecdotal accounts of others who have used the product:


I was told that this product lowers your coolant temp by 10 degrees. Any info is greatly appreciated. Happy 4th of July!
 
Amsoil also makes something similar called Dominator Coolant Boost which claims to decrease warmup time, reduce peak operating temperature, help protect the various metals in the cooling system, and can be used with water alone or with the coolant mixture.

One comparison between WW and DCB is here:

I have been using DCB in my 03 Toyota for a few years now and have not had any issues. I do recall that after a few heat cycles of adding it to the system, it did seem to warm up to operating temperature a little quicker.
Same thing to me
 
What I have learned from this thread:
1 WW reduces surface tension resulting in fewer bubbles thus effecting greater heat transfer in cooling systems.
2 The vast majority of vehicles will see no benefit from this effect.
3 There is a risk of gelling coolant.
4 'Chemically cleaning' the engine + cooling system could be all that many applications need. (I like that one)
5 The 5 to 10 degree change (nobody argued this number) can help very few racers and very few classic car owners.

Nobody mentioned the increased efficiency of aluminum radiator cores.
Isn't this why cooling system capacities are 1/3 that of yesteryear's cars?

So, the very few people who pare down the size of their cooling system hardware for weight gain and those who push the limits of their knock sensors with engine tuning etc. are already masters of measuring.....all 1,000 of them...worldwide.
 
What I have learned from this thread:
1 WW reduces surface tension resulting in fewer bubbles thus effecting greater heat transfer in cooling systems.
2 The vast majority of vehicles will see no benefit from this effect.
3 There is a risk of gelling coolant.
4 'Chemically cleaning' the engine + cooling system could be all that many applications need. (I like that one)
5 The 5 to 10 degree change (nobody argued this number) can help very few racers and very few classic car owners.

Nobody mentioned the increased efficiency of aluminum radiator cores.
Isn't this why cooling system capacities are 1/3 that of yesteryear's cars?

So, the very few people who pare down the size of their cooling system hardware for weight gain and those who push the limits of their knock sensors with engine tuning etc. are already masters of measuring.....all 1,000 of them...worldwide.
There are tens of thousands of racers concerned with weight and where it is located on the vehicle. Hollow Titanium bolts? Aluminum Heim joints, Magnesium castings, thin sheet metal valve/oil pan covers...the list expands constantly? You will find these materials on vehicles that want to be competitive in just about all forms of racing.
 
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