Lately showers haven't been lasting as long as I'd expect. Then last night there is no hot water. The high pressure reset switch was tripped so I checked everything. With elements ohmed out at 12.0 ohms. Which appears to be in spec. I checked to make sure I had continuity on both thermostats and I did. All the wiring is good as well. I reset it and all was well. I just got home and pulled the access covers I felt the tank around the element the top one is noticably very warm but the lower element area is not warm at all. But it still ohms out ok. Any recommendations? What to do from here? It is an electric Bradford white water heater.
Water heater trouble
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JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
How old is the unit? I wonder if there's considerable mineral build up in there, preventing heat exchange?
Did you just move there?(in last year?)
maybe your incoming water is colder?
"hot water" lasts about half as long here in the winter vs the summer
My rheem is limited to 140F (real outlet temp at sink around 135F)
in the winter the incoming water is easily 20-30F colder. requiring just under twice as much heated water to be the same temp at the shower vs the summer.
Note: the numbers are dumbed down and yes the numbers change as the hot water flows. ie after a 5min shower my tank water might be 115f vs 135
This does not apply to well water.. just municipal.
maybe your incoming water is colder?
"hot water" lasts about half as long here in the winter vs the summer
My rheem is limited to 140F (real outlet temp at sink around 135F)
in the winter the incoming water is easily 20-30F colder. requiring just under twice as much heated water to be the same temp at the shower vs the summer.
Note: the numbers are dumbed down and yes the numbers change as the hot water flows. ie after a 5min shower my tank water might be 115f vs 135
This does not apply to well water.. just municipal.
Probably full of lime. Cut the power and water off, open the drain valve. Remove the top element after it drains. Close the drain valve and pour about 3 gallons of white vinegar through the top element hole and let it sit for 30 minutes to 1 hour and drain. There will probably be some crud left in there. Get out what you can and replace both elements. Replace with standard 4500 watt elements. Refill and turn power on last.
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Normally only one of the two elements will be on at a time.
First the top one, until it reaches thermostat temp.
Then the bottom one turns on.
http://www.whirlpoolwaterheaters.co...eaters-work/standard-electric-operation/
First the top one, until it reaches thermostat temp.
Then the bottom one turns on.
http://www.whirlpoolwaterheaters.co...eaters-work/standard-electric-operation/
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I installed a Noritz tankless water heater last April.
Highly recommended. And you will save $$ over time.
Highly recommended. And you will save $$ over time.
Just found out that a rental unit oven that i threw $150 blew a thermostat. That's another $230. Time for new unit... no more good money after bad. From now on any appliance over 10 years old gets replaced.
You likely have a bad thermostat. Most water heaters have an upper thermostat and a lower thermostat, it could be either one. Test them with a 220v test light or AC voltmeter but be very careful around the live electricity. When the water in the top of the heater reaches the temperature set point, it transfers power to the lower thermostat. Some newer water heaters have only one combined thermostat, but this is rare.
I had the same thing happen to me a few years ago and determined that it was the upper thermostat, so I bought one. Before replacing it I adjusted the water temperature up a little and it started working again. It has been working fine since then so I just kept the thermostat I bought for when I need to replace it in the future.
The thermostats are cheap and readily available, under $20 each at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, Amazon, etc. You do NOT need to buy it from the water heater manufacturer, they are generic in nature, just like the heating elements. Just buy one that looks the same as what you have. I bought a Camco and it was only $15.
I had the same thing happen to me a few years ago and determined that it was the upper thermostat, so I bought one. Before replacing it I adjusted the water temperature up a little and it started working again. It has been working fine since then so I just kept the thermostat I bought for when I need to replace it in the future.
The thermostats are cheap and readily available, under $20 each at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, Amazon, etc. You do NOT need to buy it from the water heater manufacturer, they are generic in nature, just like the heating elements. Just buy one that looks the same as what you have. I bought a Camco and it was only $15.
I use propane water heaters. If I got 16 yrs out of one, I'd be braggin' about it.
Originally Posted by andyd
I use propane water heaters. If I got 16 yrs out of one, I'd be braggin' about it.
Water heaters last a LOT longer if you replace the anode every 5 years (more often if you have hard water). The flexible anodes are under $40.
I use propane water heaters. If I got 16 yrs out of one, I'd be braggin' about it.
Water heaters last a LOT longer if you replace the anode every 5 years (more often if you have hard water). The flexible anodes are under $40.
If your heater is from 2002 you are living on borrowed time. At any time that thing could start leaking. Also a new heater will meet the new energy efficiency requirements and will start saving you money on day 1. Anything new will be better than what you have.
Originally Posted by walterjay
If your heater is from 2002 you are living on borrowed time. At any time that thing could start leaking. Also a new heater will meet the new energy efficiency requirements and will start saving you money on day 1. Anything new will be better than what you have.
+1
16 years was a good long life it lived
If your heater is from 2002 you are living on borrowed time. At any time that thing could start leaking. Also a new heater will meet the new energy efficiency requirements and will start saving you money on day 1. Anything new will be better than what you have.
+1
16 years was a good long life it lived
Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2026
Yes, it is time to replace. Don't waste the money trying to get more out of this one.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
If it is a T-stat and it's cheap and easy enough to replace, it might be worth your while.
Like said, going on 17yrs is beyond a great lifespan for one of these.
I personally wouldn't try to flush/clean it at this point. The drain valves are junky little needle valves that can barely pass anything. They're basically there as a one time use drain. Not a service port. If you do want to use it as such, pull it, put a 3/4" thread pipe nipple in there and a 3/4" ball valve on the end of the nipple. Now you have some flush flow.
Like said, going on 17yrs is beyond a great lifespan for one of these.
I personally wouldn't try to flush/clean it at this point. The drain valves are junky little needle valves that can barely pass anything. They're basically there as a one time use drain. Not a service port. If you do want to use it as such, pull it, put a 3/4" thread pipe nipple in there and a 3/4" ball valve on the end of the nipple. Now you have some flush flow.
Make sure you've got solid power to it. I jumped to the wrong conclusions earlier this year only to find out that the breaker was bad due to a wire coming loose and overheating it.
Check to see that you've got 220 or however many volts at the elements. If not, do you have 220 to the thermostat? If not, check power at the breaker.
Check to see that you've got 220 or however many volts at the elements. If not, do you have 220 to the thermostat? If not, check power at the breaker.
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by andyd
I use propane water heaters. If I got 16 yrs out of one, I'd be braggin' about it.
Water heaters last a LOT longer if you replace the anode every 5 years (more often if you have hard water). The flexible anodes are under $40.
I'd rather just cut the hot and cold copper pipes and use shark bite fittings. You can reuse those with the $1 tool that disconnects them when you need to replace the water heater. Use a sawsall to cut it to length if it's too long.
The rod is about $13-$14.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-SP11526C-900-x-44-3-8-Magnesium-R-Tech-Anode-Rod
https://www.westsidewholesale.com/rheem-sp11526c.html
Originally Posted by andyd
I use propane water heaters. If I got 16 yrs out of one, I'd be braggin' about it.
Water heaters last a LOT longer if you replace the anode every 5 years (more often if you have hard water). The flexible anodes are under $40.
I'd rather just cut the hot and cold copper pipes and use shark bite fittings. You can reuse those with the $1 tool that disconnects them when you need to replace the water heater. Use a sawsall to cut it to length if it's too long.
The rod is about $13-$14.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-SP11526C-900-x-44-3-8-Magnesium-R-Tech-Anode-Rod
https://www.westsidewholesale.com/rheem-sp11526c.html
I agree with JTK, and also have used a shark bite on one water heater, and would do it again. I have also used unions to make it super easy just to replace the flooring underneath it. I also put ball valves on the input and output.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted by walterjay
If your heater is from 2002 you are living on borrowed time. At any time that thing could start leaking. Also a new heater will meet the new energy efficiency requirements and will start saving you money on day 1. Anything new will be better than what you have.
+1
If your heater is from 2002 you are living on borrowed time. At any time that thing could start leaking. Also a new heater will meet the new energy efficiency requirements and will start saving you money on day 1. Anything new will be better than what you have.
+1
Originally Posted by Wolf359
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by andyd
I use propane water heaters. If I got 16 yrs out of one, I'd be braggin' about it.
Water heaters last a LOT longer if you replace the anode every 5 years (more often if you have hard water). The flexible anodes are under $40.
I'd rather just cut the hot and cold copper pipes and use shark bite fittings. You can reuse those with the $1 tool that disconnects them when you need to replace the water heater. Use a sawsall to cut it to length if it's too long.
The rod is about $13-$14.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-SP11526C-900-x-44-3-8-Magnesium-R-Tech-Anode-Rod
https://www.westsidewholesale.com/rheem-sp11526c.html
The problem with using the less expensive solid anode rods is that their length will make it difficult (or impossible) to replace in an area where there is limited clearance above the water heater (most installations). I installed a flexible one before I installed the water heater because of this, and because of the fact that the manufacturer puts them in so tight that it can be almost impossible to get the old one out 5 years down the road (I don't install it nearly as tight).
My electric water heater is over 20 years old and I am on my 4th anode rod. If you have never replaced one, you should see what an old anode rod looks like when it comes out. Replacing a water heater every 10-15 years is not necessary if the anode is replaced on a regular basis, this is a normal maintenance item on all water heaters, both gas and electric. The exception to this is on LP gas water heaters which can corrode from the outside-in due to the corrosive nature of LP gas.
The new electric water heater's basic design isn't any different than it was 50 years ago and are only more efficient due to additional insulation. An older one can be made more efficient by simply installing a water heater blanket. Personally, I don't see any reason to retire one that isn't leaking.
Using Shark Bite connectors on a water heater's water connections is a bad idea. The heat from the water heater will eventually degrade/destroy the Shark Bite's O-Rings.
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by andyd
I use propane water heaters. If I got 16 yrs out of one, I'd be braggin' about it.
Water heaters last a LOT longer if you replace the anode every 5 years (more often if you have hard water). The flexible anodes are under $40.
I'd rather just cut the hot and cold copper pipes and use shark bite fittings. You can reuse those with the $1 tool that disconnects them when you need to replace the water heater. Use a sawsall to cut it to length if it's too long.
The rod is about $13-$14.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-SP11526C-900-x-44-3-8-Magnesium-R-Tech-Anode-Rod
https://www.westsidewholesale.com/rheem-sp11526c.html
The problem with using the less expensive solid anode rods is that their length will make it difficult (or impossible) to replace in an area where there is limited clearance above the water heater (most installations). I installed a flexible one before I installed the water heater because of this, and because of the fact that the manufacturer puts them in so tight that it can be almost impossible to get the old one out 5 years down the road (I don't install it nearly as tight).
My electric water heater is over 20 years old and I am on my 4th anode rod. If you have never replaced one, you should see what an old anode rod looks like when it comes out. Replacing a water heater every 10-15 years is not necessary if the anode is replaced on a regular basis, this is a normal maintenance item on all water heaters, both gas and electric. The exception to this is on LP gas water heaters which can corrode from the outside-in due to the corrosive nature of LP gas.
The new electric water heater's basic design isn't any different than it was 50 years ago and are only more efficient due to additional insulation. An older one can be made more efficient by simply installing a water heater blanket. Personally, I don't see any reason to retire one that isn't leaking.
Using Shark Bite connectors on a water heater's water connections is a bad idea. The heat from the water heater will eventually degrade/destroy the Shark Bite's O-Rings.
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