Water heater trouble

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Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by Wolf359
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by andyd
I use propane water heaters. If I got 16 yrs out of one, I'd be braggin' about it.
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Water heaters last a LOT longer if you replace the anode every 5 years (more often if you have hard water). The flexible anodes are under $40.


I'd rather just cut the hot and cold copper pipes and use shark bite fittings. You can reuse those with the $1 tool that disconnects them when you need to replace the water heater. Use a sawsall to cut it to length if it's too long.

The rod is about $13-$14.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-SP11526C-900-x-44-3-8-Magnesium-R-Tech-Anode-Rod

https://www.westsidewholesale.com/rheem-sp11526c.html

The problem with using the less expensive solid anode rods is that their length will make it difficult (or impossible) to replace in an area where there is limited clearance above the water heater (most installations). I installed a flexible one before I installed the water heater because of this, and because of the fact that the manufacturer puts them in so tight that it can be almost impossible to get the old one out 5 years down the road (I don't install it nearly as tight).
My electric water heater is over 20 years old and I am on my 4th anode rod. If you have never replaced one, you should see what an old anode rod looks like when it comes out. Replacing a water heater every 10-15 years is not necessary if the anode is replaced on a regular basis, this is a normal maintenance item on all water heaters, both gas and electric. The exception to this is on LP gas water heaters which can corrode from the outside-in due to the corrosive nature of LP gas.
The new electric water heater's basic design isn't any different than it was 50 years ago and are only more efficient due to additional insulation. An older one can be made more efficient by simply installing a water heater blanket. Personally, I don't see any reason to retire one that isn't leaking.
Using Shark Bite connectors on a water heater's water connections is a bad idea. The heat from the water heater will eventually degrade/destroy the Shark Bite's O-Rings.


That's why I mentioned the shark bite fittings. You cut the hot and cold so you can tip the water heater to slide in the longer rod after you drain out most of the hot water. Those flexible ones are thinner. That rod I mentioned is .9 inches thick. The original ones are usually anywhere from .5 to .75 inches thick. Should last longer and they're cheaper. I haven't actually seen any shark bite fittings destroyed yet, they're code compliant and they're designed to work with hot and cold pipes. You could always just use regular copper connectors, but not everyone is good at soldering.

And yeah, it can be a project to remove the old rod, had to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar which was 18 inches long and a 3 foot pipe on top of that to get the rod to break loose and that was spraying it with Kroil to loosen it up first.
 
I don't mind spending $10/year on water heater maintenance. It beats the heck out of spending $350+ on a new water heater every 10 years. Also, you can buy a water heater with a shorter warranty for a lower price and it will last just as long if you maintain it. I have talked with plumbers that tell me the only difference in 6,9, and 12 year warranty water heaters is the price, and a bigger/better anode. If the anode is replaced at regular intervals, the longer warranty is inconsequential and unnecessary.
I don't drain my water heater when I replace the anode. I don't have to if I don't tip it. I just shut the water off and replace the anode, no water comes out. Also, the weight of a full water heater helps when removing the old anode.
 
Originally Posted by wag123
I don't mind spending $10/year on water heater maintenance. It beats the heck out of spending $350+ on a new water heater every 10 years. Also, you can buy a water heater with a shorter warranty for a lower price and it will last just as long if you maintain it. I have talked with plumbers that tell me the only difference in 6,9, and 12 year warranty water heaters is the price, and a bigger/better anode. If the anode is replaced at regular intervals, the longer warranty is inconsequential and unnecessary.
I don't drain my water heater when I replace the anode. I don't have to if I don't tip it. I just shut the water off and replace the anode, no water comes out. Also, the weight of a full water heater helps when removing the old anode.


I've also had the burner assembly and the temperature probe go bad and those are also covered as part of the 6-9-12 year warranty on the tank. Still those weren't too common of a failure and those 9 and 12 year ones do cost an extra $100-$200.

You're supposed to let a little hot water out and open up the relief valve when replacing the anode so the rod doesn't come shooting out or blast you with hot water under pressure.
 
Another anode option for those of you who have well water and/or a water softener would be to install a powered anode. Although it is a more expensive option, a powered anode never needs to be replaced, completely stops the rotten egg odor, kills bacteria, and extends the life of a water heater indefinitely. There is a very reasonably priced one available on Amazon for $105 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H459TAK
 
I proactively replaced my 15 y/o gas water heater last Friday. Normally this is DIY for me but I (A) left all my plumbing tools at the cabin and (B) the wife and I are going out of town for the Holidays and I don't want my in-laws who are staying at our place have to deal with an issue if it unfortunately arises. Plus I'm getting lazier. I'm used to soldering copper and I was shocked when the installer used a power copper crimping tool- never knew those existed- pretty frakking cool. I also asked him about Shark Bites and he said they're OK but doesn't prefer them. Also never knew about powered anode rods that wag123 mentioned.
 
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Well I couldn't get the water heater to drain . I removed the lower element which broke because it was being turned through crud in the tank. The bottom of the tank is full of white clumps and chunks.
 
That's very typical with hard water. Fit a smaller tube on a wet/dry vacuum to suck most of that stuff out through the lower element hole.

If you had crud up to the level of the lower element that will almost certainly burn it out.
 
If it's that full of crud is it even worth cleaning I guess is my main concern ?
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
If it's that full of crud is it even worth cleaning I guess is my main concern ?

At this point, IMO it is time for a new water heater. You should consider installing a powered anode right from the beginning. It reduces the accumulation of limescale scaling inside the tank and can significantly extend the life of the water heater, it is well worth the money. Getting the anode out of the new water heater before you even install it will be MUCH easier so even if you don't install a powered anode you should take it out and reinstall it, but not so tight that it can't be easily removed later. Even if you don' install a powered anode you should consider installing a flexible anode at this time if you have limited space above the water heater where it is installed. You can offset the price of a powered anode by purchasing a water heater with a shorter warranty. Also, it wouldn't really be cost effective to purchase one of the high efficiency water heater models, you can purchase/install a water heater blanket for significantly less money and will give you the same benefit.
 
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