Water heater anode replacement

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spasm3

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So I replaced my water heater about 3 years ago. I have really hard water. I am thinking its time to buy a new anode rod to have on hand and check the status of the one in the tank. Question is, what do you use on the threads of the rod? Liquid teflon tape? Teflon tape?

Will the threads cut through the tape so that you have a grounded connection?
 
The plumber I use likes to use pipe dope. Just a little bit on the very edge so you still have a grounded connection.
 
Should have asked it the first post, but what material do you prefer? Magnesium ( i think that's whats in my Rheem now) or aluminum. Any worries about aluminum in hot water healthwise?
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
Should have asked it the first post, but what material do you prefer? Magnesium ( i think that's whats in my Rheem now) or aluminum. Any worries about aluminum in hot water healthwise?


Depends on the type of water heater and the type of water. I forget which one is best. I don't have that problem and the water heaters I had all came with magnesium rods so that's what I used. And yes, magnesium is preferred because aluminum has been linked to Alzheimer although not definitive so if the choice makes sense, go with magnesium.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
So a dumb question (my homes mostly had hot water tanks as a zone of my boiler). Do both gas and electric water heaters have an anode? Or only electric?


They both do. The water causes the tank to rust so the anode rusts first. Once the anode is gone, the tank rusts and eventually leaks. All mine happen to be gas.
 
Tape or dope should work just fine (my last replacement came with dope preapplied). You can always check for continuity with a multimeter. Also, remember that the threads are NPT and are tapered. If you get the anode in good and tight and there is still a quarter inch of thread showing do not try to tighten it further.
 
Another problem to anticipate is - removing the Anode Rod.
I tried a Breaker Bar but the whole Tank wanted to turn.
I ended up buying a Harbor Freight Electric Impact Gun.

It also took several attempts at tightening the 'new' anode rod so it would not leak.
I suggest you get some type of Water Alarm.
I put one on-top and at bottom of my Water Heater.
[Linked Image]
 
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Filter the water inlet to your hot water tank with a sediment filter and if you want to take it a step further also add a carbon block filter (changed every 4 months). It will extend the life of your tank and anode rod.
That's what I'm doing with mine in a hard water area. My tank is spotless inside and no sediment and the rod was in excellent shape after 5 years.

It's nasty what comes out of the pre-filter when I change that one yearly, and the carbon block filters cut back the chlorine in the water drastically helping with corrosion in your hot water tank as well.
 
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I was able to break it loose using an electric impact and it was still a bear to remove ~2 years ago.

I used pipe dope and so far no leaks, hopefully none
smile.gif
 
I don't have enough vertical space above my basement water heater to get the rod in or out - even with those replacement rods that have a flex in the middle of them.

I'm not going to disconnect the tank to get it on it's side to replace the anode rod. My last tank lasted over 20 years so it hasn't been much of an issue it seems.
 
First time I did it, I managed to get 4 out of 8 free. The other 4 wouldn't budge with an 18 inch breaker bar. Got a 3 foot pipe extension for the breaker bar and the other 4 finally moved. Also sprayed with some kroil.
 
Originally Posted by Cressida
I don't have enough vertical space above my basement water heater to get the rod in or out - even with those replacement rods that have a flex in the middle of them.

I'm not going to disconnect the tank to get it on it's side to replace the anode rod. My last tank lasted over 20 years so it hasn't been much of an issue it seems.


You can pull out partially, then cut it and pull the rest out, they also sell nun-chuck anode for this reason. PITA for sure but doable.

I decided not to touch the anodes because my new one is 12 year warranty (Rheem Platinum) and doing so may cause more problem (crack the glass lining, leak afterward, etc). IMO 12 years hopefully going 15 would be fine, the risk is not worth the reward.
 
Originally Posted by Cressida
I don't have enough vertical space above my basement water heater to get the rod in or out - even with those replacement rods that have a flex in the middle of them.

I had a professional plumber let me watch as he dealt with this problem at my house. He bent the solid rod as he took it out. He did the same with the replacement rod.
 
Originally Posted by Kestas
Originally Posted by Cressida
I don't have enough vertical space above my basement water heater to get the rod in or out - even with those replacement rods that have a flex in the middle of them.

I had a professional plumber let me watch as he dealt with this problem at my house. He bent the solid rod as he took it out. He did the same with the replacement rod.


I just had an amateur plumber do mine. He was licensed though. Just cut the hot and cold lines, let some water out, tip it over and put in the rod. I like the Rheems mentioned in another thread, about .9 inches thick which is about as thick as you can get and 44 inches long and only $14. You cut it with a sawsall if it's too long. No big deal to just solder the hot and cold connections afterwards although these days the quick way to do it would be with a shark bite fitting. Those segmented ones have less material and can cost $50. Easier to just cut the lines and use the same rod for all the water heaters I had.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-SP11526C-900-x-44-3-8-Magnesium-R-Tech-Anode-Rod
 
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