My sister’s 2013 CR-V is having issues with the driver’s side heat not working and the passenger side heat barely working.
This is a known issue on the Generation 4 CR-V’s amongst other Honda models.
The “factory fix” is to disconnect the lines in the engine compartment and attach new line’s connected to several buckets with a 1/2hp inline pump, and to pump a mix of 54oz of CLR and 2 gallons of water through the heater core for 1.5 hours.
CLR is Calcium Lime Rust remover product.
This is “FSB Factory Service Bulletin” repair. Problem is that I don’t have the $160 inline pump to do this.
So I am wondering what commonly available pump could be used (substituted) to do this. Or maybe other ideas on cleaning the heater core.
I have seen where people flush it with a hose backwards, and forwards and back and forth till it runs through clear. I have heard of people using air pressure along with that to help break things loose. I have heard that is a fat stupid and that heater cores are fragile- and you do not want to be damaging it and needing to remove your whole dash and steering column (10hours) . I have heard that soaking in Simple Green is a miracle worker. I have heard that you can use dish detergent. Lemon juice. Vinegar. Any of these “hot”.
Obviously, circulating the CLR is the chosen proven method. I would guess that you could also soak it with the CLR for longer time. But some in similar circumstances have tried that without success. Although they probably didn’t use agitation as part of their soaking. I see no reason that you couldn’t disconnect the hoses, blow out the coolant with air pressure, put on separate hoses going up windshield level, fill with “Stuff of choice”, and run in a smaller rubber hose as far as it will go, which is where you randomly give it some air pressure to “bubble and rumble” inside the heater core. This might be not as good as circulating the fluid for 1.5 hours. But if you leave it in there for say 10 hours, sending bubbles through every hour or half hour.. I think it could work without sourcing an inline pump.
Yes, the radiator is full, and the overflow is full. Yes, the inlet to the heater core is hot. The outlet from the heater core not as hot. Thermostat needs replacement because it seems to not be fully closing, which means that the car takes inordinate amount of time to heat up. My OBD2 monitor shows water temperature at 184 degrees when it is HOT, but the heater is still barely putting out joy. A little on the passenger side. And everything seems to be working properly on the controls, air mix, modes etc… fwiw
Opinions welcomed.
This is a known issue on the Generation 4 CR-V’s amongst other Honda models.
The “factory fix” is to disconnect the lines in the engine compartment and attach new line’s connected to several buckets with a 1/2hp inline pump, and to pump a mix of 54oz of CLR and 2 gallons of water through the heater core for 1.5 hours.
CLR is Calcium Lime Rust remover product.
This is “FSB Factory Service Bulletin” repair. Problem is that I don’t have the $160 inline pump to do this.
So I am wondering what commonly available pump could be used (substituted) to do this. Or maybe other ideas on cleaning the heater core.
I have seen where people flush it with a hose backwards, and forwards and back and forth till it runs through clear. I have heard of people using air pressure along with that to help break things loose. I have heard that is a fat stupid and that heater cores are fragile- and you do not want to be damaging it and needing to remove your whole dash and steering column (10hours) . I have heard that soaking in Simple Green is a miracle worker. I have heard that you can use dish detergent. Lemon juice. Vinegar. Any of these “hot”.
Obviously, circulating the CLR is the chosen proven method. I would guess that you could also soak it with the CLR for longer time. But some in similar circumstances have tried that without success. Although they probably didn’t use agitation as part of their soaking. I see no reason that you couldn’t disconnect the hoses, blow out the coolant with air pressure, put on separate hoses going up windshield level, fill with “Stuff of choice”, and run in a smaller rubber hose as far as it will go, which is where you randomly give it some air pressure to “bubble and rumble” inside the heater core. This might be not as good as circulating the fluid for 1.5 hours. But if you leave it in there for say 10 hours, sending bubbles through every hour or half hour.. I think it could work without sourcing an inline pump.
Yes, the radiator is full, and the overflow is full. Yes, the inlet to the heater core is hot. The outlet from the heater core not as hot. Thermostat needs replacement because it seems to not be fully closing, which means that the car takes inordinate amount of time to heat up. My OBD2 monitor shows water temperature at 184 degrees when it is HOT, but the heater is still barely putting out joy. A little on the passenger side. And everything seems to be working properly on the controls, air mix, modes etc… fwiw
Opinions welcomed.
