water heater - 20 yrs. Replace or keep till dies?
- Thread starter Youppi
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I would keep it until there is a problem. It may be good for another 10 years or so. A new one may be good for 11 years or so.
I would probably swap the anode, but expect to need an impact wrench to pull the anode. I have mixed feelings on that, considering that you made it this far.
I would probably swap the anode, but expect to need an impact wrench to pull the anode. I have mixed feelings on that, considering that you made it this far.
If it is not snapping and popping, if it makes adequate hot water, and if there is no sediment, I would buy 2 or three magnesium anode rods and replace the one in it (magnesium is better than aluminum unless you have water odor problems, and it probably came with an aluminum rod). What I do is buy several of them and write the change date on the tank with a sharpie and then replace them every 4-5 years. I usually do the first change at 4 years so I can tell if I can stretch the next one out to five. You can get them for 12-20 dollars if you shop around, or online and shipped pretty inexpensively. Keeping up on the rod change is your best chance for extending the life of your water heater hands down.
I would just replace the anode rod. I have 12+ water heaters and did this a couple years ago and I use to have two or three die on me every year, but now I think I've only had 2 in the last two years, I think a couple of them I had replaced the anode rod a year earlier, but when I pulled out the old one, it was pretty far gone so I might have been too late when I replaced the rod. I think I wrote about this a couple years ago.
I got mine from this site:
https://www.comfortgurus.com/859-water-heater-parts#/item_description-anode_rods
For me, I got the 4 pack and didn't bother about size. Had to use a sawsall to cut some of them down to the proper length as some of the water heaters were short ones. Cheaper doing that than to pay more for a shorter/thinner one.
I got mine from this site:
https://www.comfortgurus.com/859-water-heater-parts#/item_description-anode_rods
For me, I got the 4 pack and didn't bother about size. Had to use a sawsall to cut some of them down to the proper length as some of the water heaters were short ones. Cheaper doing that than to pay more for a shorter/thinner one.
20 years is fine still, keep it going.
If it is electric absolutely remove inspect and replace elements. I have acidic water and have a neutralizer system but my elements are ugly after 2 years. Yes there are some things you can run to ground. But at 20 years, believe me you are living on borrowed time. As elements coat up, they become hotter and chemical reactions cause leaks at the gasket.
I would replace it. they will leak with out warning and can make a huge mess. at 20 years, it is likely overdue. longevity does depend on the quality of your water - but yours is on borrowed time. My sister has had two fail by leaking in that same 20 years. I replaced mine at age 20 out of precaution.
When in doubt, change it out. Cheap insurance by potentially avoiding a huge mess.
if the Anode rod has not been checked in 10 years, forget about it, don't bother.
You are supposed to test the pressure relief valve, but if you do they usually start dripping....
I say you got 5 years to think about this if your water pressure is on the low side. Propane water heaters are built better than electric, and you may get better efficiency in a new unit.
You are supposed to test the pressure relief valve, but if you do they usually start dripping....
I say you got 5 years to think about this if your water pressure is on the low side. Propane water heaters are built better than electric, and you may get better efficiency in a new unit.
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Put me in the camp of replacement. You can leisurely shop around and research, if you wait until it bursts you're at their mercy. When I remodeled a house I bought last year, I replaced one from 2007 because it wasn't in an overflow pan.
Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL
if the Anode rod has not been checked in 10 years, forget about it, don't bother.
You are supposed to test the pressure relief valve, but if you do they usually start dripping....
I say you got 5 years to think about this if your water pressure is on the low side. Propane water heaters are built better than electric, and you may get better efficiency in a new unit.
The only reason I'm in the camp of replacing the anode rod is that a power venter is a lot more than just a regular 50 gallon hot water heater. You mind as well replace the anode rod, get a drain pan and maybe a WAGS valve, worse case is that you end up with a 50 gallon leak, otherwise it's endless until you notice it. Normally the tank is lined with fiberglass, but it's usually imperfect and the tank eventually starts to rust. Maybe you got a good one and can get a few more years out of it.
if the Anode rod has not been checked in 10 years, forget about it, don't bother.
You are supposed to test the pressure relief valve, but if you do they usually start dripping....
I say you got 5 years to think about this if your water pressure is on the low side. Propane water heaters are built better than electric, and you may get better efficiency in a new unit.
The only reason I'm in the camp of replacing the anode rod is that a power venter is a lot more than just a regular 50 gallon hot water heater. You mind as well replace the anode rod, get a drain pan and maybe a WAGS valve, worse case is that you end up with a 50 gallon leak, otherwise it's endless until you notice it. Normally the tank is lined with fiberglass, but it's usually imperfect and the tank eventually starts to rust. Maybe you got a good one and can get a few more years out of it.
Originally Posted By: Youppi
It came with the new house I moved in 20 years ago. This is a 50 gallon gas power vent heater (Rheem/Rudd) and no visible evidence of leaking or rust.
Funny, that is the exact same water heater that I just replaced in my home two weeks ago. We bought our house 17 years ago and that water heater was already 5 years old. It always worked great; I drained it a couple of times over the years but never checked or replaced the anode.
Three weeks ago it started leaking slowly from the bottom and I noticed the puddle of water on the floor. I installed another 50-gallon power-vent Richmond (made by Rheem) myself, which cost about $800 at the local home improvement store, plus around $50 for new valves, supply lines, fittings, etc.
Based on my experience you could get 2-3 more years out of it if you are lucky. But if you have the time and money available now it might be wise to replace it.
It came with the new house I moved in 20 years ago. This is a 50 gallon gas power vent heater (Rheem/Rudd) and no visible evidence of leaking or rust.
Funny, that is the exact same water heater that I just replaced in my home two weeks ago. We bought our house 17 years ago and that water heater was already 5 years old. It always worked great; I drained it a couple of times over the years but never checked or replaced the anode.
Three weeks ago it started leaking slowly from the bottom and I noticed the puddle of water on the floor. I installed another 50-gallon power-vent Richmond (made by Rheem) myself, which cost about $800 at the local home improvement store, plus around $50 for new valves, supply lines, fittings, etc.
Based on my experience you could get 2-3 more years out of it if you are lucky. But if you have the time and money available now it might be wise to replace it.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
The fact that you're able to drain/flush it without issues means it doesn't have a lot of sediment buildup and it's a quality unit. Try this with the typical plastic drain valve and the valve either leaks or breaks. Had fun replacing the plastic drain on my US Craftmaster unit.
Originally Posted By: JTK
The fact that you're able to drain/flush it without issues means it doesn't have a lot of sediment buildup and it's a quality unit. Try this with the typical plastic drain valve and the valve either leaks or breaks. Had fun replacing the plastic drain on my US Craftmaster unit.
I just buy a screw on cap when they leak which is all the time.
The fact that you're able to drain/flush it without issues means it doesn't have a lot of sediment buildup and it's a quality unit. Try this with the typical plastic drain valve and the valve either leaks or breaks. Had fun replacing the plastic drain on my US Craftmaster unit.
I just buy a screw on cap when they leak which is all the time.
Originally Posted By: old1
Personally I don't fix what ain't broke
If it ain't broke, I don't fix it. If it is broke, I may not fix it.
Personally I don't fix what ain't broke
If it ain't broke, I don't fix it. If it is broke, I may not fix it.
At 20 years old I would replace it. That gives me the ability to spend some time finding out what is available, and allows me to change it out on my schedule rather than running out to buy whatever happens to be available because the old one has failed.
I replaced our 1995 vintage water heater with a GeoSpring 5 or 6 years ago now. Not only has it been flawless, but uses far less energy, came with utility rebates and state/federal tax credits. It's already paid for the initial up-front cost and continues to save us money every month.
I replaced our 1995 vintage water heater with a GeoSpring 5 or 6 years ago now. Not only has it been flawless, but uses far less energy, came with utility rebates and state/federal tax credits. It's already paid for the initial up-front cost and continues to save us money every month.
Originally Posted By: linkbelt
Originally Posted By: old1
Personally I don't fix what ain't broke
If it ain't broke, I don't fix it. If it is broke, I may not fix it.
Well if you don't fix a broken hot water heater, I guess it's fine just taking cold showers.
Originally Posted By: old1
Personally I don't fix what ain't broke
If it ain't broke, I don't fix it. If it is broke, I may not fix it.
Well if you don't fix a broken hot water heater, I guess it's fine just taking cold showers.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
At 20 years old I would replace it. That gives me the ability to spend some time finding out what is available, and allows me to change it out on my schedule rather than running out to buy whatever happens to be available because the old one has failed.
I replaced our 1995 vintage water heater with a GeoSpring 5 or 6 years ago now. Not only has it been flawless, but uses far less energy, came with utility rebates and state/federal tax credits. It's already paid for the initial up-front cost and continues to save us money every month.
Geospring is definitely the way to go. We replaced our propane power vent water heater with a Geospring last year. We definitely notice the difference in our propane usage, and it hasn't made a huge increase on our electric bill. No question it's saving us money. The price was about the same a new propane power vent unit, but we got a $300 rebate from our electric company and a $300 federal tax credit.
At 20 years old I would replace it. That gives me the ability to spend some time finding out what is available, and allows me to change it out on my schedule rather than running out to buy whatever happens to be available because the old one has failed.
I replaced our 1995 vintage water heater with a GeoSpring 5 or 6 years ago now. Not only has it been flawless, but uses far less energy, came with utility rebates and state/federal tax credits. It's already paid for the initial up-front cost and continues to save us money every month.
Geospring is definitely the way to go. We replaced our propane power vent water heater with a Geospring last year. We definitely notice the difference in our propane usage, and it hasn't made a huge increase on our electric bill. No question it's saving us money. The price was about the same a new propane power vent unit, but we got a $300 rebate from our electric company and a $300 federal tax credit.
I'm on my second well pump in 35 years. First was with the house and I don't really know how old it was. Second was replaced in '94 and at that time I bought a spare to keep around. Still new in the box.
My propane water heater is over 20 years old. But I won't replace it until it starts to make noises. The new ones are over $450 for the cheapies. It does have soft water, no anode and is heavily insulated.
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Very true! Same for well pumps.
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
Problem is things like water heaters tend to have a nasty habit of failing at the worst time, like Christmas eve in a snow storm. Then one gets raked over the coals for an emergency service call etc, whilst the wife curses you out for letting it go so long.
My propane water heater is over 20 years old. But I won't replace it until it starts to make noises. The new ones are over $450 for the cheapies. It does have soft water, no anode and is heavily insulated.
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Very true! Same for well pumps.
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
Problem is things like water heaters tend to have a nasty habit of failing at the worst time, like Christmas eve in a snow storm. Then one gets raked over the coals for an emergency service call etc, whilst the wife curses you out for letting it go so long.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: Al
Originally Posted By: JTK
The fact that you're able to drain/flush it without issues means it doesn't have a lot of sediment buildup and it's a quality unit. Try this with the typical plastic drain valve and the valve either leaks or breaks. Had fun replacing the plastic drain on my US Craftmaster unit.
I just buy a screw on cap when they leak which is all the time.
That did nothing for me. It just leaked from the body of the valve. Replaced it with a brass gate valve. In hindsight, it will be a 1/2" ball valve next time so you can get some real flow out of it for flushing. The factory drain valves or replacement gate valves offer only a tiny orifice for water to flow through.
Originally Posted By: JTK
The fact that you're able to drain/flush it without issues means it doesn't have a lot of sediment buildup and it's a quality unit. Try this with the typical plastic drain valve and the valve either leaks or breaks. Had fun replacing the plastic drain on my US Craftmaster unit.
I just buy a screw on cap when they leak which is all the time.
That did nothing for me. It just leaked from the body of the valve. Replaced it with a brass gate valve. In hindsight, it will be a 1/2" ball valve next time so you can get some real flow out of it for flushing. The factory drain valves or replacement gate valves offer only a tiny orifice for water to flow through.
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