Water Cylinder Decarbonizing... Should I?

[Gary Allan]

I should say that there is the brake booster line ..but it too is not centrally located and fluid would have no reason to jump across 5/6ths of the intake and would take an exit at the first available valve (that it's tapped near).

 

[Shaman]

I am with Gary on this one. Some cars just don't want to make it easy on you, and you just have to get the spray bottle out and go for it.

 

[Kestas]

You're right. I forget that plumbing into the manifold would only affect the nearest cylinders.

 

[BlazerLT]

Spray bottle won't introduce enough water to do a thing.

You might as well just go get a professional cylinder decarbonizing if you want them clean then.

 

[Shaman]

I wish I could find the post of the guy who did the spray bottle at work that dropped his emissions numbers with just a spray bottle and water. Tried searching for about 25 minutes but couldn't find it.

 

[BlazerLT]

It might do something for a 4 banger, but nothing will happen when you spread that small amount of water over 6 or 8 cylinders.

Trust me, I tried and the engine ran like nothing occured.

 

[jamesn]

almost all cars nowadays have a plastic intake hose with a hose clamp at the throttle body. just pull the hose off and take it to the home depot. go to the brass barb fitting section and get a long (2-3") 1/4" brass barb fitting. they all have a threaded end on them. cut a hole in the intake pipe very close to the throttle body itself and stick that sucker through a small hole in the piping. when you get done you will have 2 threaded hose barbs held together together in the center with a coupler. you should be able to postition it centrally to feed all cylinders equally. to use it just stick a vinyl tube on the barb and feed water through it while driving. not too difficult really. seal the hole up around the fitting with some silicone caulk and stick a plug on the end of it when not in use. total cost, about 10 bucks tops.

 

[TheTanSedan]

I've gotten a kick out of reading this thread. When I learned to do water de-carbonizing the one tool was an 8-ounce Coke bottle, the returnable kind with the curved shape to hold it easily. One held the bottle with one hand, the thumb acting as regulator, while the other hand held the throttle linkage open on the carb. Poured through the primary venturis only, keeping rpms up above 1500; slowly, steadily. A part of every annual or twice annual tune-up.

FUEL POWER much easier to live with, today.

On the used vehicles of the past few years I've used MOPAR Combustion Chamber Cleaner aerosol, then done an overnight LUBE CONTROL piston soak. Then an ARX regimen on dino and LC/FP with synthetic oil after that.

Our Jeep had near-perfect combustion (UOA) with this routine (didn't require the MOPAR CCC).

 

[TedT]

Just a thought, I have an 89 GMC with a 5.7L engine. I have in the past used GM top engine cleaner and ruined the O2 sensor. The sensor is located right in the left exhaust manifold. The cleaner was poured into the throttle body. I think what happened was the sensor was thermo shocked and cracked the ceramic core. I believe this because on early Audi V8s the sensors would crack from condensation hitting them during engine warm up. I saw this more than a few times.
Ted