Watch Recommendations

I've narrowed things down.
Citizen
Orient or Orient Star
Casio G-Shock All Metal.
I will check local independent jewelers for any trades ins.
I can't justify spending over $750 for something I wear everyday.
I will say that my dead Citizen gave me very good service. I wore it everyday for 24 years. The saffire crystal never got any scratches. However, the surrounding bezel has quite a bit of wear.
I want to thank everyone for their input. The online stores of Ashford.com and Jomashop.com also helped me narrow things down.
Thanks Again.
 
Folks, I need some recommendations on a new watch. My 24 year old Citizen Eco-Drive has bitten the dust and I don't think it's worth fixing.
I'm looking for an Automatic or Solar Powered watch. I would like a 43mm case with a stainless bracelet. NO CHRONOGRAPHs! It must be Water Resistant to 200 Meters. I would like the price range between $500 and $750.

Making useful or competent recommendations requires more information. Even then, I can't make a recommendation that includes design because my tastes include a dislike for polished cases, silver hands, non-plongeur hands on a diver, etc. I would be able to make recommendations only based on specs and suitability for a particular usage.

Water resistance is generally misunderstood. I will explain in a separate post. A proper diver should have the appropriate ISO rating or you just can't trust it in critical applications such as actual diving. So, desk diver, dish-washing sink diver, pool swimmer, snorkeling activities, skin diving, scuba diving, saturation diving, or what? What about low air pressure resistance? Important or not? The Crystal popping off while nose-diving in your Cessna isn't fun. What style of dive watch? Monobloc, screwback, true compressor? Or you don't care? Why don't you care?

In case of an automatic do you require hacking? Sadly, Seiko still does not implement hacking on all their movements. Plus, Seiko has Terrible QC with hands, index markers, and bezels more often than not misaligned.

In case of solar-powered, do you prefer a digital watch, an ana-digi, or an analog watch?

The price point doesn't leave too many options, especially if you want a mechanical movement. You'll be stuck with a bread-and-butter movement like a Seiko/Epson NH35 or a Citizen/Miyota 9075. While there's nothing wrong with these movements - they are just meh, not that there's anything wrong with meh. Better meh than gah.

My friends and fellow water rats know I'm a watch enthusiast and I get frequently asked for recommendations. I realize most people, even those who want a watch, don't care what they wear. They just want it to be inexpensive, durable, reliable, and have a decent feature set. In that case I always recommend the Casio GW 5000U-1. Solar-powered, radio-controlled, digital GH-Shock with an internal metal case with metal screwback, 200 m WR, and it has a premium strap that is softer and more pliable than a standard Casio resin strap. The MSRP is around $400 but street price is more like $250 to $300.

For an inexpensive mechanical diver, I'd probably look at Squale, but I don't think you'll find one for under a grand.

If you are open to mechanical watches, why don't you want a kinetic watch? You get the best of both worlds, the precision of a quartz watch combined with the satisfaction of at least a few gears whirring. Let's not focus on the drawbacks. Or shall we?
 
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I've narrowed things down.
Citizen
Orient or Orient Star
Casio G-Shock All Metal.
I will check local independent jewelers for any trades ins.
I can't justify spending over $750 for something I wear everyday.
I will say that my dead Citizen gave me very good service. I wore it everyday for 24 years. The saffire crystal never got any scratches. However, the surrounding bezel has quite a bit of wear.
I want to thank everyone for their input. The online stores of Ashford.com and Jomashop.com also helped me narrow things down.
Thanks Again.
Didn't see that before I wrote my treatise.

In case of the G-Shock, when you say all metal, I hope you mean all metal case under the plastic shroud. A metal G-shock without the plastic shroud will look like butt once it's scuffed. It will also be heavier and thus more prone to damage if you drop it. If you get the model I mention in my above post, the plastic shroud is replaceable. Also, a scuffed plastic G-shock does not look as nasty as a scuffed metal G-Shock, And keep in mind the model I mentioned has the metal case and metal screwback, while most G shock models have the back attached with 4 puny screws.

I find your remark of not wanting to spend money on something you use every day interesting. I feel completely the opposite about daily wear items. I really don't care about the items I use once in a blue moon.
 
Is water resistance to 200 meters an overall measure of quality or do you dive?
Trav: Is Hudson Yards, on Manhattan's West Side, the reason the watch you linked to called that?
WR has zip to do with quality. Some of the highest-quality watches have no or barely any water resistance. Both, the Omega Speedmaster and the Breitling Navitimer, while not really a high-end watches, but both went to space, and the crystal popped off the Omega, have only 5 bar/50m water resistance because astronauts don't go swimming - uhm, okay then. What a multi-clause sentence, I'm bushed.

WR without being a tested and certified feature is not to be trusted beyond washing your hands or doing the dishes. That's why proper dive watches are tested and certified to meet industry standards like ISO 6425 etc. There are also ISO standards that ensure a watch and strap meet durability and wear resistance requirements, which important due to the corrosiveness of seawater and the wear caused by sand.

A watch that merely says, for example, WR 10 bar/100 m may of may not be safe to swim with. It may survive a limited time at 10 feet down without water ingress. The stated WR refers to static pressure, not to jumping into the pool or falling your arms while swimming.

3 bar/30 m
means splash water-resistant

5 bar/50 m
means splash water resistant and a very short immersion into the water may not result in immediate destruction. Not suitable for showering or swimming

10 bar/100 m
okay for swimming, snorkeling, maybe diving as deep as 10 meters for a few seconds. Not good for jumping from the 10-meter board.

20 bar/200 m
suitable for swimming, snorkeling, light scuba diving, and surfing. I use a 120 bar/1,200 m watch for water sports. I like redundancy when it comes to protecting a pricey tool.

30 bar/ 300 m, good for scuba diving, 50 bar/500m preferred

Depending on usage, the case seal/gasket, crown stem seals, and, if so equipped, pusher gaskets must be replaced regularly if a watch is worn in adverse conditions. Water resistance must be tested with the proper equipment, at least if reliability is important.
 
Undone Aquadeep is 50 bar/ 500 m WR (probably good for swimming), Has an automatic Seiko NH 35 movement, proper and extra-visible plongeur hands, and looks to me like a proper dive watch with a Grade II titanium case for under $400. It is Chinese! But so are all the cheap Seiko movements unless they come from Malaysia. I may give someone an Aquadeep as a gift.
 
Tudor Black Bay homage. Only $159. 😯

1000000829.webp
 
Didn't see that before I wrote my treatise.

In case of the G-Shock, when you say all metal, I hope you mean all metal case under the plastic shroud. A metal G-shock without the plastic shroud will look like butt once it's scuffed. It will also be heavier and thus more prone to damage if you drop it. If you get the model I mention in my above post, the plastic shroud is replaceable. Also, a scuffed plastic G-shock does not look as nasty as a scuffed metal G-Shock, And keep in mind the model I mentioned has the metal case and metal screwback, while most G shock models have the back attached with 4 puny screws.

I find your remark of not wanting to spend money on something you use every day interesting. I feel completely the opposite about daily wear items. I really don't care about the items I use once in a blue moon.
I'll take a look at the G-Shock that you noted.
I can't justify spending more than $750 on a watch. To me, they are a tool. A Walmart Timex would work and so would a Tag Heuer. However, a Timex wouldn't last any time and a Tag Heuer isn't something I would wear while doing manual labor.
Furthermore, something about me kills watches. I don't what it is. I never had a watch last very long until I bought a Seiko automatic.
 
I'll take a look at the G-Shock that you noted.
I can't justify spending more than $750 on a watch. To me, they are a tool. A Walmart Timex would work and so would a Tag Heuer. However, a Timex wouldn't last any time and a Tag Heuer isn't something I would wear while doing manual labor.
Furthermore, something about me kills watches. I don't what it is. I never had a watch last very long until I bought a Seiko automatic.
It sounds like the 5000U-1 would be a good fit. Just in case, do take a look at the Undone Aqualand. It has an NH 35 and if the movement requires a service in 8 years or so you can replace the movement for a fraction of what a service costs.
 
WR has zip to do with quality. Some of the highest-quality watches have no or barely any water resistance. Both, the Omega Speedmaster and the Breitling Navitimer, while not really a high-end watches, but both went to space, and the crystal popped off the Omega, have only 5 bar/50m water resistance because astronauts don't go swimming - uhm, okay then. What a multi-clause sentence, I'm bushed.

WR without being a tested and certified feature is not to be trusted beyond washing your hands or doing the dishes. That's why proper dive watches are tested and certified to meet industry standards like ISO 6425 etc. There are also ISO standards that ensure a watch and strap meet durability and wear resistance requirements, which important due to the corrosiveness of seawater and the wear caused by sand.

A watch that merely says, for example, WR 10 bar/100 m may of may not be safe to swim with. It may survive a limited time at 10 feet down without water ingress. The stated WR refers to static pressure, not to jumping into the pool or falling your arms while swimming.

3 bar/30 m
means splash water-resistant

5 bar/50 m
means splash water resistant and a very short immersion into the water may not result in immediate destruction. Not suitable for showering or swimming

10 bar/100 m
okay for swimming, snorkeling, maybe diving as deep as 10 meters for a few seconds. Not good for jumping from the 10-meter board.

20 bar/200 m
suitable for swimming, snorkeling, light scuba diving, and surfing. I use a 120 bar/1,200 m watch for water sports. I like redundancy when it comes to protecting a pricey tool.

30 bar/ 300 m, good for scuba diving, 50 bar/500m preferred

Depending on usage, the case seal/gasket, crown stem seals, and, if so equipped, pusher gaskets must be replaced regularly if a watch is worn in adverse conditions. Water resistance must be tested with the proper equipment, at least if reliability is important.
Here is one that I'm considering.
https://www.jomashop.com/orient-orient-star-black-dial-mens-watch-re-au0301b00b.html

Here's another
https://www.jomashop.com/citizen-watch-at8020-54l.html
 
I thought you said "No Chronograph" :)

And as far as automatics, have you ever owned one? You really do need to wear it every single day, or else you'll have to set the time (and date), or invest in a watch winder. Besides, you may need to adjust time on a weekly basis anyway because an automatic can easily lose or gain 10 sec/day. Just making sure you know what you're getting yourself into...
 
I thought you said "No Chronograph" :)

And as far as automatics, have you ever owned one? You really do need to wear it every single day, or else you'll have to set the time (and date), or invest in a watch winder. Besides, you may need to adjust time on a weekly basis anyway because an automatic can easily lose or gain 10 sec/day. Just making sure you know what you're getting yourself into..
I know that I said no to a chronograph. I reconsidered about this particular Citizen.
I had a Seiko before the Citizen.
 
I thought you said "No Chronograph" :)

And as far as automatics, have you ever owned one? You really do need to wear it every single day, or else you'll have to set the time (and date), or invest in a watch winder. Besides, you may need to adjust time on a weekly basis anyway because an automatic can easily lose or gain 10 sec/day. Just making sure you know what you're getting yourself into...
I really prefer hands over chronograph or digital.
 
The Orient will be a better deal than any comparable Seiko because Orient doesn't misalign components. The bracelet is likely not great. Looks pin and collar. If they are screw links that would be a lot better. The links look solid but could be cheap folded. The clasp does not milled but pressed. But you could put it on a more comfortable NATO or ZULU strap.

Keep in mind the Citizen has a slide rule with tiny markings and numbers. The dial is very busy and legibility is not great. Make sure to not get a fake because there are copies of that watch floating around.
 
The Orient will be a better deal than any comparable Seiko because Orient doesn't misalign components. The bracelet is likely not great. Looks pin and collar. If they are screw links that would be a lot better. The links look solid but could be cheap folded. The clasp does not milled but pressed. But you could put it on a more comfortable NATO or ZULU strap.

Keep in mind the Citizen has a slide rule with tiny markings and numbers. The dial is very busy and legibility is not great. Make sure to not get a fake because there are copies of that watch floating around.
Yeah, I think any rotating bezel would be a problem.
 
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