I change engine oil after vehicle has been driven. I don't think it matters that much though.
Warming the oil for oil change
- Thread starter otis24
- Start date
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
I think the oil needs to circulate for a short time prior to an oil change to churn up any crud that may have fallen out of suspension and settled on the engine surface.
Only if changing PP
I think the oil needs to circulate for a short time prior to an oil change to churn up any crud that may have fallen out of suspension and settled on the engine surface.
Only if changing PP
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
The colder the better for me. I hate hot and hot engines more worser.
I have dumped a couple of quarts in without the plug in, but that had nothing to do with trying to flush out any remaining oil.
Came out nice and clean!
Jeff, not sure why that reminds me of launching my new boat at Christmas Bay many moons ago, LoL
The colder the better for me. I hate hot and hot engines more worser.
I have dumped a couple of quarts in without the plug in, but that had nothing to do with trying to flush out any remaining oil.
Came out nice and clean!
Jeff, not sure why that reminds me of launching my new boat at Christmas Bay many moons ago, LoL
You always drove the vehicle to hot before changing the no-detergent oil duing by fathers vehicles back in the 40 and 50s. The newer engines with oil filters and detergent oil doesn't need to be hot because detergent oil holds stuff in suspension so the oil filter can remove the "bad" stuff. I drive my vehicle onto my ramps and remove the undercover and drain the oil which is maybe a 100F. Ed
I have a Fumoto oil drain valve. But I only start the car long enough to drive it up the ramps. I don`t know if it would drain quicker if it were hotter. I usually open up the Fumoto valve and go do something else and come back since those things drain slower than pulling off a regular drain plug. I don`t know if it would drain quicker with the Fumoto valve if it were hotter. If I think about it I may try that next time , but that`s a long way off since I just did a change a couple weeks ago.
Every car company I have worked for says to change the oil at operating temp in the service manuals.
Originally Posted by Eddie
You always drove the vehicle to hot before changing the no-detergent oil duing by fathers vehicles back in the 40 and 50s. The newer engines with oil filters and detergent oil doesn't need to be hot because detergent oil holds stuff in suspension so the oil filter can remove the "bad" stuff. I drive my vehicle onto my ramps and remove the undercover and drain the oil which is maybe a 100F. Ed
Good points there.
I change mine warm.
You always drove the vehicle to hot before changing the no-detergent oil duing by fathers vehicles back in the 40 and 50s. The newer engines with oil filters and detergent oil doesn't need to be hot because detergent oil holds stuff in suspension so the oil filter can remove the "bad" stuff. I drive my vehicle onto my ramps and remove the undercover and drain the oil which is maybe a 100F. Ed
Good points there.
I change mine warm.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Some engineer wrote that knowing he/she will never get burned.
If that oil can't drain when warm … it's not going to do well lubricating the far reaches of system.
My 0w20 flows out so fast that it splashes droplets everywhere.
Ironically it's our large industrial engines they want UOA samples from a hot engine under load taken from a valve in a cooler line. Now that makes sense and makes me question a bunch of "sump samples" that cause bickering on this site.
If that oil can't drain when warm … it's not going to do well lubricating the far reaches of system.
My 0w20 flows out so fast that it splashes droplets everywhere.
Ironically it's our large industrial engines they want UOA samples from a hot engine under load taken from a valve in a cooler line. Now that makes sense and makes me question a bunch of "sump samples" that cause bickering on this site.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by otis24
I know many, self included, will take a short drive or idle the engine prior to an oil change so that the oil will drain more quickly. I have a magnetic heater that goes on the oil pan to warm the oil during the winter. Wondering if I can use this to warm the oil prior to changing it? Only concern is warming up the oil filter prior to changing as a cold filter might be more difficult to remove. Guess I will find out.
Hot oil is the best time for an oil change. It shakes up what's sitting at the bottom of the oil pan - which becomes more easily removed after pulling the hot drain plug. Wear rubber gloves.
For do it your-selfers at home....
Cold filters are not harder to remove for me. But I never remove a real hot oil filter. I let my oil drain for 30-60 minutes - then remove the filter, which won't scald your arms and hands when the oil channels above the filter began dispensing oil - over & above what's inside that used oil filter.... should you wait 30-60 minutes for a little cooling.
I know many, self included, will take a short drive or idle the engine prior to an oil change so that the oil will drain more quickly. I have a magnetic heater that goes on the oil pan to warm the oil during the winter. Wondering if I can use this to warm the oil prior to changing it? Only concern is warming up the oil filter prior to changing as a cold filter might be more difficult to remove. Guess I will find out.
Hot oil is the best time for an oil change. It shakes up what's sitting at the bottom of the oil pan - which becomes more easily removed after pulling the hot drain plug. Wear rubber gloves.
For do it your-selfers at home....
Cold filters are not harder to remove for me. But I never remove a real hot oil filter. I let my oil drain for 30-60 minutes - then remove the filter, which won't scald your arms and hands when the oil channels above the filter began dispensing oil - over & above what's inside that used oil filter.... should you wait 30-60 minutes for a little cooling.
The clear plastic jugs I store used oil in definitely settle out after some time. Makes sense to stir it up first.
The Focus' oil pan really seems to clamp on to the drain bolt when it's cold. It needs to be hot to the touch before not being a struggle to remove it.
The Focus' oil pan really seems to clamp on to the drain bolt when it's cold. It needs to be hot to the touch before not being a struggle to remove it.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Originally Posted by Jimkobb
In cold weather I always put on a jacket before an oil change .
Far more important !
In cold weather I always put on a jacket before an oil change .
Far more important !
Originally Posted by Jimkobb
In cold weather I always put on a jacket before an oil change .
Right ON!
In cold weather I always put on a jacket before an oil change .
Right ON!
I see no sense in running the engine just to warm the oil for an oil change. You drive the car, right? Just change the oil after it's been driven. I would not drain the oil when it's warm from the magnetic pan heater, it's not really that warm and the oil has not been stirred/agitated. I don't like the idea of a sediment layer at the bottom of the pan. Yes I know the oil suspends particles and any sediment would be the result of neglect, but still. Just change the oil after you've driven the vehicle.
It is normal to have some old oil left in the engine and mixed with the fresh oil during a service. Quicky lube places drain the oil until it's "good enough" and then reinstall the drain plug -- they've been doing this for decades, it's a legitimate oil change, and nobody is suing them over a few ounces of dirty oil. And anyone who is agonizing over a few ounces of dirty oil (even a half-quart is not that much), well... I suggest you do some reading on tribology and the protective films deposited by engine oils on internal engine parts. Here is the idea: it's actually good to have some aged oil in the mix. Having 100% (or 98%) brand new oil *can* actually strip the protective film off *some* of the engine parts, until it gets re-deposited as the new oil wears in.
It is normal to have some old oil left in the engine and mixed with the fresh oil during a service. Quicky lube places drain the oil until it's "good enough" and then reinstall the drain plug -- they've been doing this for decades, it's a legitimate oil change, and nobody is suing them over a few ounces of dirty oil. And anyone who is agonizing over a few ounces of dirty oil (even a half-quart is not that much), well... I suggest you do some reading on tribology and the protective films deposited by engine oils on internal engine parts. Here is the idea: it's actually good to have some aged oil in the mix. Having 100% (or 98%) brand new oil *can* actually strip the protective film off *some* of the engine parts, until it gets re-deposited as the new oil wears in.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
I tested that because I only drain warm and saw two things:
1) the clean oil started draining instantly so no noticeable displacement of stranded oil
2) the cooler oil drained noticeably slower than just warm oil - so warm is good-nuff
Not sure what your buddy is seeing … but I’m with you
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
I want to change the oil in the Foz, due to time not miles, but refuse to drive the car just to warm up the oil for a change and don’t want to drain it cold. I’m not losing any sleep over the ordeal.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
The only warm up I do before doing it is driving it up on the ramps then turn it off I hate getting burnt by hot oil.
6 mil Nitrile gloves help a lot with avoiding the oil burn from the drain plug when you get that brief splash. My van has the oil filter right next to the exhaust pipe so I usually just pull the plug and then let it cool down while it drains before taking off the filter.
I think the magnetic heater could be helpful.
