Want to get 300K miles?

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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
VR1 said:
anything but Pennzoil and QS and I really don't see where you could go wrong.


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Oh well, there are misguided individuals all over.
 
Originally Posted By: VR1
Well you can use it but, I know it will never see my engines. Even if they are good today I will never know. Oil is something I don't experiment with I use something I know works and rest easy at night. I didn't know you had a bitog type. I change it every 3k is a fail proof system on using a good oil. Don't reinvent the wheel.


And how can you keep from experimenting since no mainstream oil you are currently buying has existed for over 12 months?

Next thing you now your going to claim the 2012 Boss is great because you owned a '69.

PS If you own a Dodge dont take it to the dealer... The stuff in the Black Mopar bottles is also put in Yellow Bottles.
 
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Well why change what works? Valvoline don't change very much. The only thing Valvoline has done major was go from Magnesium to Sodium in the last few years thats really about it everything else has been very minute. I would never take my Jeep to the dealer to get the oil changed. I'm not putting my trust in a 8 dollar an hour guy to work on my Jeep I have spent almost 10k in add ons alone. I don't trust anyone working on my vehicles unless I know them personally. [censored] I hate to get my vehicle inspected when idoits are wanting to jack with it all the time.
 
VR1,
But you said "10K OCIs are goofy". That's fine if you want to do 3K OCIs, but to imply 10K OCIs are in some way abusive to an engine is wrong for the most part.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: VR1
anything but Pennzoil and QS and I really don't see where you could go wrong.


Really? Better break out the flame suit. LOLOLOLL


You`v got that right!
 
Originally Posted By: Errtt
I have had 2 vehicles that had over 300k when I got rid of them, each still running on original engines, truck & Blazer. Never did a valve job or anything.


Well arent you going to tell us what oil you used?
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I think that the way to get 300K miles on an engine/vehicle is:

Buy a vehicle that can actually do it...Meaning, not a really low end car! Really low end cars such as low end Accent, Aveo, Rio and such. The rest of the vehicle might not make it even if the engine does. I mean no disrespect to those who drive them. They have their purpose.

Do lots of maintenance. Keeping them tuned up and changing all of the fluids and wareout items.

Drive the thing! Drive and drive and drive! Don't let it sit!

Don't live in the N.E. where there is TONS of road salt in the winter.
 
Its easy enough to do, first you have to drive enough to do that in a reasonable period of time before the car gets to old, like 10-12 years.

My Silverado will never see 300k miles even if I keep it for another 20 years. By that point the rust will kill it.
 
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Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I think that the way to get 300K miles on an engine/vehicle is:

Buy a vehicle that can actually do it..


True. You've got to start with the engineering of the vehicle.

It was a fairly simple choice in the late '70s and '80s and perhaps up to 2000. You buy a Honda, Toyota, or comparable japanese car, and you go 300k. You buy a '78 Chevette, and you don't drive back from vacation.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I think that the way to get 300K miles on an engine/vehicle is:

Buy a vehicle that can actually do it...Meaning, not a really low end car! Really low end cars such as low end Accent, Aveo, Rio and such. The rest of the vehicle might not make it even if the engine does. I mean no disrespect to those who drive them. They have their purpose.



It's not that they're bad cars, it's just that the HERP DERP owners that buy them think that since they were cheap to buy, think that they are disposable as well.

Really, if you want to see how to keep a car going for a while, read about cars on that island to the south of us they call Cuba.
 
Originally Posted By: CROWNVIC4LIFE
I put 300K miles on 88 Town Car using bulk Motorcraft oil [5W30&10W30 from the dealer..I was doing mostly 5K OCI'S..It still had the original engine and transmission..It was mostly driving from N.Y.C. to Miami but there was gridlock mixed in..It was running awesome when I sold it and everything worked perfectly..Now I wish I kept it alot longer.

If I knew what I knew now I would have used Mobil 1 and did 10K mile OCI'S..I wish I knew tig1 back then.
Syn oils are the way to go when you put the miles on your vehicles.
 
The secret is ... a '95 Camry. My sister drove one to 320k on dino - no problems except the timing belt went at 270k - she had never changed it - sold it in good condition. My next door neighbor has one, and the wife has been driving it daily forever (or at least since we moved here almost 10 yrs ago). Way back she told me a Toyota mech told them to "keep it" - said the '95 is bullet proof. I'll ask them what the mileage is and report back.
 
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
The secret is ... a '95 Camry. My sister drove one to 320k on dino - no problems except the timing belt went at 270k - she had never changed it - sold it in good condition. My next door neighbor has one, and the wife has been driving it daily forever (or at least since we moved here almost 10 yrs ago). Way back she told me a Toyota mech told them to "keep it" - said the '95 is bullet proof. I'll ask them what the mileage is and report back.


The '92-'96 Camry's were unbeleivable! I still see tons of them in my area and still no rust. Oh yeah, a few of them do but, not many. Not everyone can be buying them from the no salt states!

Can you imagine owning one from new and driving it forever? Two of my SIL's each had one and drove the snot out of them for well over 200K miles without any issues or rust. One was a '92 and the other a '95. Then, my sister bought a '97(redesigned)preowned in '01 and just got rid of it last month(14 yrs old and no rust). Great cars! All 3 of these Camrys that I mentioned were never taken care of the way we here at Bob's take care of vehciles. Always dirty!

In '95, there was change from the '92-'94 in the engines. Toyota went from a 2.2L 4 cyl with a cast iron block/aluminum head to all aluminum but the H.P dropped from 135 to 125. I drove both and couldn't feel the difference. The V6 H.P was upped from 182hp to 188hp. Not sure about the rest of the V6 engine construction. And of course, the '95 was the last year of OBD-I. In the late 90's, I almost bought a '95 4 cyl auto. I should have jumpped all over it. I'd probably still be driving it.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I drive 12K each year. It would take me 25 years to reach 300K with one car; 50 years because I have two (summer/winter).

I don't care about 300K, I worry about corrosion. Around here the moving parts will outlast the body.


That's what I realized. Better to spend effort fighting rust if
you want the vehicle to last.
 
I have a 96 Toyota P/U with 63,000 miles will it last 300,000 miles? Avg 4,200 per year? Lets see 300,000 - 63,000 = 237,000 miles to go so lets say I bump up the driving to 6,000 miles per year. 6,000/237000 = 39.5 years! so since I am 58 years old ?????
 
Quote from the article
"For every complete revolution the crankshaft makes, a piston travels up and down one time. We will call this a stroke. At 3800 RPM (Rotations Per Minute) and roughly 65MPH, each piston in a V8 engine strokes 475 times per minute or approximately 8 times per second! "

When the V8 engine in my pickup is turning 3800 RPM, I do believe each piston is going up and down 3800 times. Maybe that's how they got so many miles on that car. It has pistons that only stroke once for every eight crank revolutions.
 
Originally Posted By: Seguino
Quote from the article
"For every complete revolution the crankshaft makes, a piston travels up and down one time. We will call this a stroke. At 3800 RPM (Rotations Per Minute) and roughly 65MPH, each piston in a V8 engine strokes 475 times per minute or approximately 8 times per second! "

When the V8 engine in my pickup is turning 3800 RPM, I do believe each piston is going up and down 3800 times. Maybe that's how they got so many miles on that car. It has pistons that only stroke once for every eight crank revolutions.


Mechanically speaking, each revolution the crank rotate once, and therefore each component connecting to it will go up and down once, so at 3800rpm, each piston go up and down 3800 times per minite, or 63.3333 times per second.

The limitation is ususally the velocity of the piston travel, so high redline engine usually have lower crank to rod ratio. Each stroke in these engine is shorter than a stroke in a lower rpm engine with higher crank to rod ratio.
 
I'll reiterate that I put 467,000 miles on an '88 F150 with a 5.0L, which was fed mainly a diet of Castrol GTX 20w-50 with a quart or two of 5w-50 Syntec when I knew I was going to be hauling a bay boat a lot. Bought it brand new and changed oil every 3K. Of course, it took me almost 20 years to accumulate that many miles.
 
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