Viscosity Choice based on Oil temp

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Just for reference, my Stato (supercharged 6) doesn't have oil temperature.

But what I do is drop a type K thermocouple down the dipstick hole...pull off the highway just as I hit town, kill the engine just as I stop, leap out and throw the T/C down the dipstick hole.

Normal commute is about 25km, 21 of them highway, and cruise is around 1,700RPM in "D"...that location, which is the oil draining down from the internals, 95-105C is pretty typical, even on freezing days...NOW a heat gun on the sump will be 10-15C cooler.

If I hold it in "2" for the trip, even as few as 10km, at just under 4,000PM, 129-135C is pretty typical.
 
Last two days results are about the same. Using 5th gear resulted in only 5 degrees cooler by the same location. Once again the temp hit around the 70 mark about 3/4 of the way to work and only goes around 5-8 degrees hotter by the time I reach work.

On the way home I managed to hit a max of 85.

Next day off I get, I might test how accurate the sensor is.

Note that I am using an oil galley plug for the temp sensor not the pan. I'm not sure if this will make temps read higher or lower but I really didn't want to remove the oil pan and fit the sensor. I could drill out a spare oil pan bolt and fit the sensor in that.
 
The best way to figure out what oil grade you should run is to get the oil pressure reading. If you are getting 10-15 PSI per 1000 RPM when the oil is fully warmed up and you are doing your usual driving then you've got the correct oil for your driving. Fully warmed up summer and winter oil temps should be similar. It just takes even longer to get the oil up to operating temperature.

Using a thicker oil to solve a leak, running high RPM early just to warm up the oil. Using Thick oil because "thicker is always better" all make no sense to me. Do the proper thing. Get pressures and adjust your oil accordingly.

aehaas
 
Originally Posted By: AEHaas
The best way to figure out what oil grade you should run is to get the oil pressure reading. If you are getting 10-15 PSI per 1000 RPM when the oil is fully warmed up and you are doing your usual driving then you've got the correct oil for your driving.

aehaas


Really, where is that from, or is it the old samll block "rule of thumb" that you use in 101 ?

Papers (again) suggesting that pressure means lubrication, and 10-15psi/1,000RPM is effective lubrication ?
 
Not even close MR Haas. Pressure is meaningless unless you want to know how much work your pump is doing? What about all the older designs and modern small motors that do not even have oil pumps? I guess they can't work cause they don't have pressure ...

Presence of oil is lubrication. How it gets to the surface or bearing is entirely up to the designer. Gravity, splash, drip, sprayed, sling oil, or pumped - as long as there is enough it will be fine
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Viscosity vs temp has to do with bearing clearances at the load RPM and heat envelope.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Just for reference, my Stato (supercharged 6) doesn't have oil temperature.

But what I do is drop a type K thermocouple down the dipstick hole...pull off the highway just as I hit town, kill the engine just as I stop, leap out and throw the T/C down the dipstick hole.

Normal commute is about 25km, 21 of them highway, and cruise is around 1,700RPM in "D"...that location, which is the oil draining down from the internals, 95-105C is pretty typical, even on freezing days...NOW a heat gun on the sump will be 10-15C cooler.

If I hold it in "2" for the trip, even as few as 10km, at just under 4,000PM, 129-135C is pretty typical.


I might do something similar to see how much difference there is between the sump and the oil gallery location. 130C+ is quite warm but I guess the supercharger would help warm things up a bit more than normal. Would a 40 grade oil be acting like a thick 20 at those temps in your engine?

Currently my max temp I've seen is 86C. Tomorrow it may increase as weather is meant to hit 25C. Summer will be interesting to note the difference.
 
I don't think the ambient will have much effect on the oil sump temperature as summer arrives.
The oil will be obviously warmer at start and warm up, but because of that, the fluid friction will be lower.
The oil temperature rise in the bearing will be lower as a result of it being hotter and thinner, and that could in fact, lower bulk oil temperature, or keep it the same.
The engine will shed less heat to ambient when its hot outside, but perhaps not enough to make a significant increase to sump temperature.
I believe that the viscosity requirement of an engine changes very little if any, with outside temperature.

Edit; Line one, affect or effect? I think I have it right.
 
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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Not even close MR Haas. Pressure is meaningless unless you want to know how much work your pump is doing? What about all the older designs and modern small motors that do not even have oil pumps? I guess they can't work cause they don't have pressure ...

Presence of oil is lubrication. How it gets to the surface or bearing is entirely up to the designer. Gravity, splash, drip, sprayed, sling oil, or pumped - as long as there is enough it will be fine
smile.gif


Viscosity vs temp has to do with bearing clearances at the load RPM and heat envelope.



I agree, pressure has nothing to do with lubrication. The oil pressure is only required to make sure there is oil delivery to the bearing surfaces. The constant flow also aids in cooling the area.

aehaas
 
Originally Posted By: AEHaas
The constant flow also aids in cooling the area.

aehaas


Nope.the bearings are heated by the viscous drag WITHIN the bearing.

There's a common misconception that oil is carrying heat away from the bearings that is due to the heat of the surrounding components.

For big ends and mains, the oil film is generating heat that is actually transferred TO the con-rods and mains, and thence into the cooling system, or the engine components.

Lower viscosities GENERATE less heat than higher, not "flow more and carry away more heat" as 101 states.

General principals as follows
* More viscosity more heat generation within a bearing
* more viscosity more minimum oil film thickness (regardless of point 1)
* more RPM, significantly more heat generation in the oil film, and hotter running bearings
* more load, marginally more heat generation within the bearing.

The oil pump is only supplying oil to make up for the bearing's inherent side leakage, which is influenced by viscosity, RPM, speed, diameter, length, load, and diametrical clearance...it's not "flowing" oil through the bearings.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
The oil pump is only supplying oil to make up for the bearing's inherent side leakage, which is influenced by viscosity, RPM, speed, diameter, length, load, and diametrical clearance...it's not "flowing" oil through the bearings.


Still stuck in that misconception I see.
grin.gif
Supplying bearings with oil pressure forces more flow through them then they would "naturally" flow without pressure. Basic fluids principle ... flow results due to a pressure difference, which is what happens when there is oil supplied under pressure to a bearing.
 
From the motorcycle thread? Graphs were posted showing an increase of oil through the bearings with rpm and/or pressure increase.
What does increased flow of oil through the bearings accomplish?
 
OK, there is some increase in leakage across the bearing from more pressure in the supply gallery. Except that it is rotating, the bearing leakage is just like any other kind of leakage, the more pressure, the faster the leak. But we are talking 0.001~2" for most common rod and main bearings in automotive applications. That is a very small "leak". Maybe 0.002~3 for a race motor (I typically shoot for 0.0025" during a build) ... So we are not talking about liters of fluid per minute per bearing. And that's what it would take for flow cooling to be effective.

Shannow's argument is there is heat generated in the bearing and some flow, but it's comparatively slow. Slow enough that the oil must be able to absorb the heat and still lubricate without external "cooling" forces at the bearing site. All this is actually cooled by "windage" oil that is closer to sump temperature.

Now big end bearings that incorporate oil squirters for piston cooling MAY flow enough fluid to do some effective cooling ... But that is not what we have in typical automotive applications, nor in motorcycles.

Bearings can be fed by gravity feed and survive for millions of revolutions w/o any inherent pressure feed. They will "suck" in all the oil they can use from any available pool. The old gravity feed systems just need to be kept full and the bearing will run happily for ever (almost) ...
 
OK, there is some increase in leakage across the bearing from more pressure in the supply gallery. Except that it is rotating, the bearing leakage is just like any other kind of leakage, the more pressure, the faster the leak. But we are talking 0.001~2" for most common rod and main bearings in automotive applications. That is a very small "leak". Maybe 0.002~3 for a race motor (I typically shoot for 0.0025" during a build) ... So we are not talking about liters of fluid per minute per bearing. And that's what it would take for flow cooling to be effective.

Shannow's argument is there is heat generated in the bearing and some flow, but it's comparatively slow. Slow enough that the oil must be able to absorb the heat and still lubricate without external "cooling" forces at the bearing site. All this is actually cooled by "windage" oil that is closer to sump temperature.

Now big end bearings that incorporate oil squirters for piston cooling MAY flow enough fluid to do some effective cooling ... But that is not what we have in typical automotive applications, nor in motorcycles.

Bearings can be fed by gravity feed and survive for millions of revolutions w/o any inherent pressure feed. They will "suck" in all the oil they can use from any available pool. The old gravity feed systems just need to be kept full and the bearing will run happily for ever (almost) ...

In thinking about motorcycle engines, it's always good to think 2-stroke like outboards and dirt bikes. They have no pressure feed (until recently) and get their oil from separation with pre-mix. Yet they run zillions of revolutions w/o failure. Tear one apart and the bearings are wet to the touch. They are lubricated, but no pump in site ...

Same for OPE motors. Many rely entirely on splash oil and turn up to 4,500 RPM for hours air-cooled which means they are hot. Those big end bearing get oil from the surrounding "windage" supply. They suck in oil as needed and last many years. That's why it's even more important to keep these systems full all the time. They have little reserve and if the sump is not full, they can't splash effectively.

Same for most air compressors. They are air pumps, just like an automotive engine, but they are driven instead of driving. They make their heat in teh bearings as they run. Put you hand on an air compressor and you will get burnt if it's been running a long time. Most of the heat is from compression, but some is from bearing friction (oil friction in the bearings). And the bulk are splash lubricated and last for decades if kept full.

So the pump thing is a red herring. Pumps were introduced to lube top-end systems and let gravity do the rest. Return oil was directed at critical areas by cast-in channels, drilled passages, etc. Eventually, the pumps started supplying oil to other systems because it was cheaper to make lightweight castings w/o all the gravity return methods. Motors became smaller and started to run in no-upright situations. Then they needed to have oil that could move against gravity. Eventually we ended up where we are now. EFI motors that will run upside down (for a while)
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Good post Broc;
I picked on your reference to large sea going ship engines.
Would the following be true?
1. Forcing more oil through the bearings will heat the engine oil faster and overall, may cause the engine to run hotter.
I'm thinking this because cool oil forced through the bearing will be more viscous than the oil already in the bearing space, and in turn, create more heat from fluid friction.

2. Fluid friction is the source of the heat in the bearings, therefore adding cool oil under high pressure may cause those bearings to run hotter instead of cooler.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
OK, there is some increase in leakage across the bearing from more pressure in the supply gallery. Except that it is rotating, the bearing leakage is just like any other kind of leakage, the more pressure, the faster the leak. But we are talking 0.001~2" for most common rod and main bearings in automotive applications. That is a very small "leak". Maybe 0.002~3 for a race motor (I typically shoot for 0.0025" during a build) ... So we are not talking about liters of fluid per minute per bearing. And that's what it would take for flow cooling to be effective.


Dig up some journal bearing design information and look at the pressure fed bearing flow and temperature rise equations. More supply pressure gives more flow through the bearing, and more flow through the bearing gives lower temperature rise.

Bearing clearance of 0.001~0.003" might seem small, but keep in mind that many high performance engines use pretty high volume oil pumps (12+ GPM) for a reason. A significant portion of the total flow leaving the oil pump does supply and flow through the tight bearings. I'll show a figure that Shannow posted in prior discussions. If journal bearings don't benefit from more pressure fed oil then why is every high performance engine running a very high volume oil pump?

Put a much smaller oil pump in a high performance car - one that only gives a few PSI to the oil galleries - and see how long that engine will last while operating at high HP levels.



Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Now big end bearings that incorporate oil squirters for piston cooling MAY flow enough fluid to do some effective cooling ... But that is not what we have in typical automotive applications, nor in motorcycles.


The main purpose of oil squirters is to cool the underside of pistons. They wouldn't be used if they didn't do anything good.

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

Bearings can be fed by gravity feed and survive for millions of revolutions w/o any inherent pressure feed. They will "suck" in all the oil they can use from any available pool. The old gravity feed systems just need to be kept full and the bearing will run happily for ever (almost) ...


In some applications that it true, but in others a "gravity fed" or "splash" oiling system wouldn't be good. You think that F1 engine discussed in that other thread would survive very long at 16,000 RPM with a gravity fed oiling system? I doubt even a measly 400~450 HP street car would last very long without a pressure fed oiling system.

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

In thinking about motorcycle engines, it's always good to think 2-stroke like outboards and dirt bikes. They have no pressure feed (until recently) and get their oil from separation with pre-mix. Yet they run zillions of revolutions w/o failure. Tear one apart and the bearings are wet to the touch. They are lubricated, but no pump in site ...


Two stroke engines use roller and needle bearings for the crank, rod and piston wrist pin, which required magnitudes less oil to survive than journal bearings need. Reference some bearing design manuals if you don't believe that.

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

So the pump thing is a red herring. Pumps were introduced to lube top-end systems and let gravity do the rest. Return oil was directed at critical areas by cast-in channels, drilled passages, etc. Eventually, the pumps started supplying oil to other systems because it was cheaper to make lightweight castings w/o all the gravity return methods.


I don't really agree, because if gravity and splash systems were so effective the bottom ends of engines would still use that simple design. Here's a film by GM in 1937 that shows an engine with "scoops" on the connecting rod big end bearing that gets oil forced into it by oil jets. If that was so effective then why change the design? In that old design, the bearing was still basically force fed oil, but in a different manner and not as effective as from a PD oil pump.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz2p1SvuYjY
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly

Would the following be true?
1. Forcing more oil through the bearings will heat the engine oil faster and overall, may cause the engine to run hotter.
I'm thinking this because cool oil forced through the bearing will be more viscous than the oil already in the bearing space, and in turn, create more heat from fluid friction.

2. Fluid friction is the source of the heat in the bearings, therefore adding cool oil under high pressure may cause those bearings to run hotter instead of cooler.


Forcing more oil flow through the bearing keeps the temperature rise of the bearing down - it's simple heat transfer physics. Oil is cooled by various methods before it makes another round through the engine. The more power the engine makes, the more oil cooling is required or the oil will eventually over heat and break down. Talk to anyone who races on a road course and ask them how hot the engine oil gets, and without added cooling it could become a big problem.

If you could just seal the oil film inside the bearing (no side leakage, meaning all the volume stays in the bearing), the bearing temperature would go sky high and the oil would break down and smoke the bearing in no time. As you increase the oil flow through the bearing, the temperature rise gets increasingly lower.
 
I would assume that the amount of oil through the bearings "per revolution" decreases with rpm, because of the time factor.
That, in addition to the increased shear rate at increased rpm levels, would heat the oil more than at low rpm.
Never mentioned, high pressure raises the boiling point of the engine oil as well as the cooling system.
I'm not thinking of the boiling point of an oil, but the impurities in the oil which may cause gas bubbles to form.
Personally, I like thicker engine oils and more pressure than necessary, because I would rather have it and not need it,
than need it and not have it.

Same goes for beer.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
I would assume that the amount of oil through the bearings "per revolution" decreases with rpm, because of the time factor.


The flow through a journal bearing increases due to RPM (even if not pressure fed), and also increases on top of that due to increased supply pressure.

See this - LINK

And of course the oil will heat up quicker due to increased friction & sear caused by higher RPM and loads put on the bearing. Some bearings can survive without pressure fed oil, and some can not ... it depends on many factors.
 
When the oil heats up due to high rpm it will become thinner, oil pressure will drop if the pump output is inadequate.
In this case would the solution be install a larger oil pump, or use a thicker oil?
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
If you could just seal the oil film inside the bearing (no side leakage, meaning all the volume stays in the bearing), the bearing temperature would go sky high and the oil would break down and smoke the bearing in no time. As you increase the oil flow through the bearing, the temperature rise gets increasingly lower.


Of course it would, and that's the problem with ALL of your arguments.

You take a
* no shaft speed, pre-oiler supplies flow; and
* no side leakage, infinite temperature rise

as two bookends to base your position on...when they are two completely artificial constructs, that help YOUR sense of simplicity, in the absence of understanding.

Spin the shaft, oil leaks out the ends, and has to be replaced...that's reality.

And oil pumps provide that make-up oil.

And YES, enough pressure to get it to the big end, which as we've been over is typically only intermittently fed and does just fine.
 
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