With all the knowledge here, lets see if some of ya'll know. I just got a 1982 Pioneer SA 8800 amp. Had them before when I was younger and loved the sound. Anyway, found out it has some problems....screw eBay's "guarantee" program. The left channel gets static at times or just plain quits when I'm moving the volume control. I reverse switched the channels, sending L signal to R channel, and it does the same thing. I've deox'ed the volume control, nothing. Now, if I pull the volume control knob itself, the L channel will do the same thing as when I'm moving the volume control. If I push it in a little, goes back to normal volume like that of the R channel. Is this strictly the volume switch? Or is it an amp problem?
vintage stereo problem
- Thread starter Schmoe
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sounds like an intermittent volume (VR, potentialmeter, etc.). Start looking from that angle and see if you can find a replacment (fresh stock, no NOS or pulls).
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I'bet you can find a replacement at All Electronics, Parts Express or Antique Electronics. Do you have a circuit diagram?
You need to know the value in ohms, shaft length and diameter, and mounting. You may have to take the old one out and measure these values. Back in '82 most controls were of pretty conventional design.
You need to know the value in ohms, shaft length and diameter, and mounting. You may have to take the old one out and measure these values. Back in '82 most controls were of pretty conventional design.
That's WAY above my head. So you both aren't leaning towards amplifier itself? That's good at least. That's the bread and butter of that amp. I can adjust the volume to where I need it and then control the signal strength through the range enhancer that "kind" of acts like a volume control for now, but at some point in time, I want it right. Ironically there is a volume control module for sale on ebay for the SA 9800, which is just about the same as the 8800, but 20 watts more power.
Originally Posted By: Schmoe
That's WAY above my head. So you both aren't leaning towards amplifier itself? That's good at least. That's the bread and butter of that amp. I can adjust the volume to where I need it and then control the signal strength through the range enhancer that "kind" of acts like a volume control for now, but at some point in time, I want it right. Ironically there is a volume control module for sale on ebay for the SA 9800, which is just about the same as the 8800, but 20 watts more power.
Probably the same unit. If you can solder it's easy to change a standard control. You just need to know what the replacement should be. Take a look at Antique Electronics, they have nice pictures.
That's WAY above my head. So you both aren't leaning towards amplifier itself? That's good at least. That's the bread and butter of that amp. I can adjust the volume to where I need it and then control the signal strength through the range enhancer that "kind" of acts like a volume control for now, but at some point in time, I want it right. Ironically there is a volume control module for sale on ebay for the SA 9800, which is just about the same as the 8800, but 20 watts more power.
Probably the same unit. If you can solder it's easy to change a standard control. You just need to know what the replacement should be. Take a look at Antique Electronics, they have nice pictures.
BTW the Caig Labs stuff for controls is called MCL -- moving contact lube. DeOxit is for switches, ect.
Probably a dirty or worn ganged audiotaper pot of 10K - 100K ohms. Passable alps part should be less than 5 bucks, a good stepped discrete component pot will cost more than the unit is worth. Some upper end 70s and 80s yamaha have some nice thin film discrete pots if you can part out a junk unit.
Google for dr. Dons radio repair. He seems to have a good reputation for rebuilding vintage radios.
Dang....looks like I may have used the wrong stuff. Will have to get some MPL at radio shack and try that first. I also need to small screws that screw the volume control knob on to the pot. It started getting looser and looser and then the whole knob slid right off this weekend. These are small screws. I can back them off with a jewelers flat head screw driver, but it's not easy. Wonder if they are a torque head or something? Get what I pay for I guess but this amp is worth it. I got a mid 90's Yamaha and there is just no comparison. This thing weights about 45 pounds. Shipping would kill me but.....
I'm a retired electronics tech. Sounds like you need the controls cleaned (switches and potentiometers). I used NuTrol and it was superb in the 70's and 80's. Today at home I use WD-40 and it works just about as well.
Our shop was a Pioneer factory repair depot. You may email Pioneer and ask who does their warranty work in your area. They will do a good job on it.
You could take the unit to an oldtimer tech and ask him to clean the controls for you.
All the best.
Bob
Our shop was a Pioneer factory repair depot. You may email Pioneer and ask who does their warranty work in your area. They will do a good job on it.
You could take the unit to an oldtimer tech and ask him to clean the controls for you.
All the best.
Bob
Thanks for all the reply's. Actually dug around the 'net and found out that those set screws were a 1.5mm hex. I actually had some at the house and tried it last night and now it works great. I had always thought that WD-40 was actually corrosive to plastic or rubber because it uses chlorinated solvents.
CAIG Labs Moving Contact lube (MCL) I don't think ShadeoRack carries it, but they have a web site. As I said, DeOxit is great stuff but it is NOT for "volume controls". I just used some MCL on a Collins receiver built in the late 50's no more scratch.
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I agree with HerrStig. Caig is what works best. But I would try this:
On carbon track pots, start with a heavy spray of D-5 for cleaning, then after dry follow up with MCL to relube the tracks. Be sure to lay a bed of rags to sop up the residue if done on-chassis.
I can usually get pots up to 65 years old revived using this approach, provided they are not worn to damage.
You should avoid using full-strength DeOxit solution on a vintage era pot.
I'm not as big a fan of other solutions such as WD-40 or TV tuner cleaners. They do clean, but I found they don't last as long as the Caig cleaners and tend to collect a lot of dirt, which wears the tracks out faster in the long run. Just my experience.
It's also very important where you clean. You want to hit the tracks more than the brushes.
Caig stuff is pretty easy to get these days. I think even Amazon indirectly carries it now.
On carbon track pots, start with a heavy spray of D-5 for cleaning, then after dry follow up with MCL to relube the tracks. Be sure to lay a bed of rags to sop up the residue if done on-chassis.
I can usually get pots up to 65 years old revived using this approach, provided they are not worn to damage.
You should avoid using full-strength DeOxit solution on a vintage era pot.
I'm not as big a fan of other solutions such as WD-40 or TV tuner cleaners. They do clean, but I found they don't last as long as the Caig cleaners and tend to collect a lot of dirt, which wears the tracks out faster in the long run. Just my experience.
It's also very important where you clean. You want to hit the tracks more than the brushes.
Caig stuff is pretty easy to get these days. I think even Amazon indirectly carries it now.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
CAIG Labs Moving Contact lube (MCL) I don't think ShadeoRack carries it, but they have a web site. As I said, DeOxit is great stuff but it is NOT for "volume controls". I just used some MCL on a Collins receiver built in the late 50's no more scratch.
Another +1 on MCL. Great stuff. If you have a Fry's nearby, they might carry CAIG. Also check a local electronics distributer. You can use Deoxit (Cramolin Red) spray in a pinch.
CAIG Labs Moving Contact lube (MCL) I don't think ShadeoRack carries it, but they have a web site. As I said, DeOxit is great stuff but it is NOT for "volume controls". I just used some MCL on a Collins receiver built in the late 50's no more scratch.
Another +1 on MCL. Great stuff. If you have a Fry's nearby, they might carry CAIG. Also check a local electronics distributer. You can use Deoxit (Cramolin Red) spray in a pinch.
I have a collection of older gear. It seems to find it's way to my house before the transfer station (so called) gets it. One piece of gear I favor has a great amp section but mechanical bleep for preamp switching. Regular doses of DeOxit don't help, there was about ONE micron of gold plating on the many switch contacts. I picked up an inexpensive preamp and feed the amp section with it through the jacks provided to insert an equalizer in the line between amp and preamp. No more preamp agro. The preamp specs are quite good, a nice indent control and a good quality rotary switch for input selection. It's made by Gemini, somewhere in the "fah east". About 80 bucks. If you have an old "big iron" receiver or intergrated amp with switching trouble, it's a work around. Got some "purty" little leds on it.
I think this is my next hobby. Just can't get enough of the 80's vintage stuff. Those amps are simply the best ever made, period. This kraph they are making now doesn't even compare spec wise to anything. My ear can tell a difference within a second. On my list....I want a Pioneer SA 9800, the SA 12 band graphic equalizer. I scored a nice Pioneer RG-2 range enhancer for 114 bucks. Running it through a pair of 1983 JBL 112's that I originally purchased at Big Navy PX on Guam. My neighbor was literally throwing away a SA-510. Works, but really scratchy on the volume pot. Will need to deox and lube it up. I think that is going to be destined to my garage. Just need to find some good satellite speakers for it with a subwoofer. Really appreciate all the reply's. I'd figure I'd get some good answers from others. We all seem to have many different interest but most imprortantly, experience. Was dreding becoming a new member at audiokarma.com, that site is like BITOG to stereo gear heads. Just don't have enough time in my life to frequent differnet forums. THIS is all I need!!!!
We are plauged with plastic boxes these days, the "Bose Illusion" being among them. Mingy little "subwoofers" with 5 inch ported drivers. Power amps are now made with "gain lumps" which are just high power IC's run off by the thousands. There is some good technology in making the new stuff, but quality varies. Older speakers( with real wood in them) from Advent and AR, Warfdale, and others can be re-drivered with "raw" speakers from outfits like Parts Express, and there are repair kits for oldie but goodie speaker cones there are well if you want to keep them "Stock". Volmne controls get noisy, electrolytics dry out, and the occasional resistor in the old stuff reveals itself to be slightly undersized, but such things are easily fixed. You will need an electronic grade soldering iron and a good "DVM" such things are not expensive these days. It's not like fixing the only TV in the house, you can wait for mail order parts if you have a collection of old gear at the ready. Get on the Parts Express website and have them send you their nice fat catalog.
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Don't be scared of AK. There's a lot of really nice people there that were once new hands and are happy to help and share. I've frequented there for many years (under a different handle). They have a broad vintage fan base.
Honestly, no offense to the few of us here, but you'll probably get better overall information there anyway on these matters.
I'm with HerrStig, Kruse and a few others here. Vintage is a no-brainer audio bargain if you know what you're doing. For 1980's gear, once you figure out what you need, the best place for generic passives and parts remains Mouser. If you take to a particular brand or era, there are other avenues available to locate the more specialized parts that some need, like dial bulbs, cords and switchgear.
Welcome aboard the vintage train.
Honestly, no offense to the few of us here, but you'll probably get better overall information there anyway on these matters.
I'm with HerrStig, Kruse and a few others here. Vintage is a no-brainer audio bargain if you know what you're doing. For 1980's gear, once you figure out what you need, the best place for generic passives and parts remains Mouser. If you take to a particular brand or era, there are other avenues available to locate the more specialized parts that some need, like dial bulbs, cords and switchgear.
Welcome aboard the vintage train.
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