Video - Best Oil Filter for Hyundai? Fram Ultra 9688 Missing Bypass!?

Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Louisville, KY


I've spent a lot of time on this forum among others looking for info on the best filter to use for the Hyundai 2.4 Theta ii non-turbo engine. With posts going out of date as manufacturing has changed, and with a lack of information on many of the filters available for this engine, I finally bought my own filters to cut open and posted a video on it. I've been wondering what's inside these things for a while, and I'm glad I'm able to contribute this information to others who are looking for it:

- Super Tech ST9688
- Mobil 1 M-104A
- Fram XG9688
- Fram TG9688

Two of the most interesting things I found from doing this:
  • Though the filters had differing heights, widths, pleat counts, end caps, and core diameters, the total filtering surface area of each filter remained pretty consistent (much more than I expected, though all a lot less than the oem 26300-35505).
  • Finding that the Fram Ultra 9688 was missing the bypass valve spring and plastic plug. This style bypass valve is on so many filters these days, and I've never seen or heard of this happening. The filter was sealed with a sticker when I purchased it, so I'm pretty sure it wasn't tampered with. I'll likely contact Fram about this, since an unknowing person could've used this filter and had some unexpected issues!
 
Manufacturing errors can happen on any filters. First time seen a missing bypass valve. Alwaya inspect before buying and/or using any filter.
 
For the Fram Ultra missing bypass, oops. As Dean Wormer might say about the Ultra bypass psi, 0.0. While it's true Ultra box is sealed, after box opened and filter inspected you likely could have returned it, 'if' recognized. Safe to say average WM shopper would not inspect, let alone recognize it if they did. Highly doubtful it was tampered with.

I don't think subjective evaluation of bypass by pushing it, a reliable indicator of psi. If bypass psi a primary concern, imo you should likely just stick with Hyun/Kia Oem filter from a reliable/trusted source.

Good luck with the 2.4 Theta II. Thanks for the c&p vid.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the C&P. I have run the ST9688, OEM and the Wix equivalents. All seem to work fine. Unfortunately, the woes of the theta II engine doesn’t appear to be oil or filter related. Just rolling the dice. My son has one at around 48K now. Changing oil/ filter every 4K. Hopefully the engine holds up.
 
^^^ Yep, only way to measure the bypass cracking pressure is to accurately measure both the spring force and the pressure acting area on the valve, then calculate the PSI.
 
I now use only OEM Hyundai filters on my 2.4 engine.
I don't own a Hyundai, but my daughter does and I only use OEM when I change her oil too. At least I've done all I can to make sure they are OEM; for some reason Hyundai filters are counterfeited frequently.
 
For the Fram Ultra missing bypass, oops. As Dean Wormer might say about the Ultra bypass psi, 0.0. While it's true Ultra box is sealed, after box opened and filter inspected you likely could have returned it, 'if' recognized. Safe to say average WM shopper would not inspect, let alone recognize it if they did. Highly doubtful it was tampered with.

I don't think subjective evaluation of bypass by pushing it, a reliable indicator of psi. If bypass psi a primary concern, imo you should likely just stick with Hyun/Kia Oem filter from a reliable/trusted source.

Good luck with the 2.4 Theta II. Thanks for the c&p vid.
Totally true, I wasn't planning on returning the Ultra as soon as I decided to cut it open (I was tempted to save it and run it at first).

I also understand what you and others are saying about the bypass valve psi, pushing was just my way of examining them in that moment, as I wasn't too concerned with the exact measurement. Wouldn't it follow though that since the spring felt weaker on the Tough Guard, that it would at least likely open at a lower psi??
 
Wouldn't it follow though that since the spring felt weaker on the Tough Guard, that it would at least likely open at a lower psi??
Yes, only if the acting pressure on the bypass valve was on the same sized valve area.
 
Thanks for the C&P. I have run the ST9688, OEM and the Wix equivalents. All seem to work fine. Unfortunately, the woes of the theta II engine doesn’t appear to be oil or filter related. Just rolling the dice. My son has one at around 48K now. Changing oil/ filter every 4K. Hopefully the engine holds up.
I've also found that every filter I've ever run on my 2.4 seemed to work just fine! Never had any starting rattle/ticking noises that others unfortunately have. Mine is now just over 60k, recently did a drain and fill on the tranny. Hoping mine as well as your son's engines keep holding up! Thanks for the comment!
 
With their Ultra reputation, maybe you got a counterfeit Fram.
More likely to happen from Amazon!

Did you buy it from Wal-Mart store or Wal-Mart online? I think the store products go thru different channels (better QC) than their site where others can fulfill the orders. i.e. more possibility of getting junk or a counterfeit.

Not suggesting that ANY cheap oil filter will do, but the rod bearing design issues could have happened even with the oem oil filters so it's not the cure!
 
Last edited:
Manufacturing errors can happen on any filters. First time seen a missing bypass valve. Alwaya inspect before buying and/or using any filter.

Curious, how can you inspect or detect a for example missing spring or valve without cutting it open and not getting arrested for running a chainsaw at the store?

Loud noise, aisle 10 :alien:
 
I've also found that every filter I've ever run on my 2.4 seemed to work just fine! Never had any starting rattle/ticking noises that others unfortunately have. Mine is now just over 60k, recently did a drain and fill on the tranny. Hoping mine as well as your son's engines keep holding up! Thanks for the comment!
To be honest, I got a 10 pack of OEM filters for around $54 shipped, so I'm just running OEM on his car going forward. IF something happens to engine, at least it will have an OEM filter on it.

Hope your car lasts a long time!
 


I've spent a lot of time on this forum among others looking for info on the best filter to use for the Hyundai 2.4 Theta ii non-turbo engine. With posts going out of date as manufacturing has changed, and with a lack of information on many of the filters available for this engine, I finally bought my own filters to cut open and posted a video on it. I've been wondering what's inside these things for a while, and I'm glad I'm able to contribute this information to others who are looking for it:

- Super Tech ST9688
- Mobil 1 M-104A
- Fram XG9688
- Fram TG9688

Two of the most interesting things I found from doing this:
  • Though the filters had differing heights, widths, pleat counts, end caps, and core diameters, the total filtering surface area of each filter remained pretty consistent (much more than I expected, though all a lot less than the oem 26300-35505).
  • Finding that the Fram Ultra 9688 was missing the bypass valve spring and plastic plug. This style bypass valve is on so many filters these days, and I've never seen or heard of this happening. The filter was sealed with a sticker when I purchased it, so I'm pretty sure it wasn't tampered with. I'll likely contact Fram about this, since an unknowing person could've used this filter and had some unexpected issues!


There is no best filter period.


I’d use OG wire backed ULTRA personally or CarQuest Premium
 
...... Wouldn't it follow though that since the spring felt weaker on the Tough Guard, that it would at least likely open at a lower psi??
Only if the bypass valve designs being compared have identical valve area, and same force applied, ie. P=F/A. But, using the term "feel" is subjective. So even with identical valves or with same area, 'feel' for F only gives some subjective conclusion. Best just to trust the specs for bypass psi generally given by the aftermarket manufacturers. Of course, no bypass comparison to TG possible with the topic Ultra XG. 😉

Having watched the Hyun/Kia supposed issue with aftermarket filters for a while, my 'opinion' has been it's most about the engines, not the aftermarket filters used. I think the one example I saw perhaps from Hyun/Kia showing an older design Champ ecore design which also might have used a combo valve too. Imo, that ecore not representative of most aftermarket filters. But, the use of aftermarket filters does make an easy target in the event of any engine issues or failure.
 
Last edited:
Curious, how can you inspect or detect a for example missing spring or valve without cutting it open and not getting arrested for running a chainsaw at the store?

Loud noise, aisle 10 :alien:
On filters that have a bypass design like the subject Fram, all you have to do is look down the center tube to see it.
 
I'm still wondering why people don't use Mann W811/80 filters and choose Kia/Hyu filter instead. Mann filter is as OEM as it can be.
I'm still to cut both (unused filters) and to post pix thou.
 
I'm still wondering why people don't use Mann W811/80 filters and choose Kia/Hyu filter instead. Mann filter is as OEM as it can be.
I'm still to cut both (unused filters) and to post pix thou.
I think a lot of people have unknowingly used the Mann W811/80 filters, as for the past couple of years now, the Wix 51334 and Purolator PL14459 are rebranded versions of the Mann.

I'm still curious how Purolator can get away still advertising that PL14459 has a high-density synthetic blend media, a 20 micron rating, a PTFE Treated Sealing Gasket, and a 15,000 mile rating when it now no longer has any of that.

I would never run the old PL14459 for anywhere near 15,000 miles anyway, but others might try to run it for longer OCIs thinking that they have a filter with "better" specs for this when it is now just a Mann W811/80 which should absolutely be changed more often!
 
The MOBIL1 M1-104 A is likely made by Mann+Hummel . I'd consider it if it had a metal crimp . I think the O.E.M. is rated at 30 microns .
 
Last edited:
Back
Top