Between 3750-5000 or 6 months should be the golden rule of car ownership! I changed the oil on a friend's car recently that hadn't been changed in 2 years and over 13,000 miles. We'll see how long that car lasts with the way he takes care of it haha.
Video - Best Oil Filter for Hyundai? Fram Ultra 9688 Missing Bypass!?
I ran 5k miles OCI on Sportage once, oil was very nasty with thick floaters, 4k seems to be the ticket with this engine. Also, I start to see oil level going slightly down after about 3k miles into OCI so I need to add a bit; level stays put for first 3k miles.
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I normally use STP XL or Fram Titanium with the pink media on 1.6L Gamma on the friends Kia Rio. The last one I pulled off her vehicle was in decent shape but collected sludge at the bottom due to 1 year of use and lots of short tripping.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/stp-s2808xl-cut-open-unknown-miles-1-year.377552/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/stp-s2808xl-cut-open-unknown-miles-1-year.377552/
That fram missing
The M1 looked really good. I’m a regular user of the ST type champ ecores.
That Fram Ultra missing the bypass valve is just one more example of what a disgrace fram has become. That’s absolutely unacceptable. We’ve seen missing filter pleats from the factory as well with fram.
Anyway whatever, I can’t imagine why anyone in the know would give any fram filter other than the endurance (champ labs made) the time of day.
Would anyone really want them?
Wow. Thank you for your informative and interesting video.
I have been thinking the same as you regarding higher number of pleats perhaps being as important as surface area. I also base this on other folk's images of carbon collecting in the pleat "toughs" as you mention. I imagine the oil flow and pressure entering the filter may "pinch" the pleats flat so that most of the area is only minimally used to filter oil, with the highest oil flow going through the path of least resistance (the pleat troughs - nearest the filter core - as indicated by the carbon buildup there).
If I'm comparing two filters with similar surface area and efficiency, I'd choose the one with more pleats (more troughs).
I think one exception might be filters with expanded metal mesh backing inside, such as the old Fram Ultras and some of the Amsoil EA15k filters (and perhaps others). I think the expanded metal mesh may hold the pleats "open" inside, resisting pinch or collapse of the pleats and opening more of the pleat surface area for filtering flow. I wonder if this is why the Accent oil filter testing showed the old style Fram Ultra flowing so well and the Brand Ranks testing of the Amsoil EA15K filter flowing fairly well. Also both filters seemed to have the best efficiency even though their surface area and number of pleats was lower.
Totally agree.
Especially with all the short trip city low rpm driving most people do.
If filter pleats are being "pitched or collapsed" during use, you can detect that upon a cut-open and inspection after use. If pleats are not super widely spaced, they will stay in place even if not backed by wire or nylon mesh. Media that isn't not full synthetic has some rigidity to it, and that's why media like that is not backed with anything.
There was a slight flow difference between them because: 1) The media is different and/or 2) The total surface area of the media was most likely different. Those factors effect the dP vs flow curve.
On my daughter's college car Elantra 2.0 I use OE filter zero issues seems really well built. One oil change I used a Fram cheap orange can weighed like nothing compared to OE and had a startup rattle occasionally. I did like that black grip on the Fram
Fram boxes are NOT sealed., just the top lid is. The bottoms can be opened up 20 plus times with zero tampering damage.
The recent Ultra boxes I've looked at have the bottom flap glued. Didn't look like it could be opened without breaking the glued flap.
All the Ultra XG spin on boxes I've looked at and purchased are sealed top (tape) and bottom (glued). The cartridge applications may be different on bottom, but those don't represent majority Ultra boxes. Point stands
I noticed those aren't the Fram Endurance Filter FE9688. That's what I just put on my 2019 Sonata.
I just did the first oil change on our new 2024 Elantra N.
Used M1 ESP 0W-30 and a Fram Titanium 9688.
However, now, after having used a Titanium, I’m starting to do some research and seeing references to a Hyundai TSB released in regard to aftermarket filters.
But I don’t know which vehicles the TSB is referring to, or whether the Elantra N is included in that.
A lot of people online tend to advise sticking with OEM on Hyundais.
I went with the Titanium because I was under the impression that it was a better filter than the OEM Mann+Hummel.
But now I’m finding out that might not be 100% the case; I’m seeing posts that would indicate that the Fram Titanium’s filter media is no longer wire-backed, despite the claim on the box, which was one of the selling points for me.
I understand that they’re transitioning away from it, which means you still might get one with the wire backing…or you may not.
Admittedly, I didn’t inspect it to try to see if it actually had the wire backing.
But the oil temps regularly hit 230° in backroad driving, and would likely be above that in the extended mountain road driving that I’ll eventually be doing.
Used M1 ESP 0W-30 and a Fram Titanium 9688.
However, now, after having used a Titanium, I’m starting to do some research and seeing references to a Hyundai TSB released in regard to aftermarket filters.
But I don’t know which vehicles the TSB is referring to, or whether the Elantra N is included in that.
A lot of people online tend to advise sticking with OEM on Hyundais.
I went with the Titanium because I was under the impression that it was a better filter than the OEM Mann+Hummel.
But now I’m finding out that might not be 100% the case; I’m seeing posts that would indicate that the Fram Titanium’s filter media is no longer wire-backed, despite the claim on the box, which was one of the selling points for me.
I understand that they’re transitioning away from it, which means you still might get one with the wire backing…or you may not.
Admittedly, I didn’t inspect it to try to see if it actually had the wire backing.
But the oil temps regularly hit 230° in backroad driving, and would likely be above that in the extended mountain road driving that I’ll eventually be doing.
That Hyundai/KIA TSB on oil filters is probably pushing 10+ years old by now is one of the most misunderstood TSB's out there.
First of all, it was written for dealership service tech guidance that if they encountered a startup noise complaint and it was determined to be related to a aftermarket oil filter, it was not a warranty reimbursable service visit and to change it out for a OEM and charge the customer.
It did not imply or infer that use of an aftermarket oil filter was prohibited or it would cause warranty denial unless it actually caused damage.
IIRC, FRAM was about the only major oil filter maker that revised their filter and part number to address this. Everybody else was fine continuing on with their already cataloged filter for Hyundai/KIA applications.
If it still had the wire backed media printed on the box, then it might still have it. But obviously, looking through the center tube holes or louvers is the only way to visually verify without cutting it open.