Very long OCI/sludge

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Hello BTOG a family member of mine has a 5sfe camry it's a rural car and isn't driven in stop go traffic or short trips.
After talking with her today the only oil change the car has had was by me 3 years ago using cheap conventional 20w50.
On Friday I will be changing the oil on this car and I'm very unsure what oil to use.
I know using a good oil may cause the pick up to clog and a cheap oil won't do much cleaning .
The car has been driven 29,000 km in this time
Thank you

Products I have access to
15-40 HEDO
Cheap conventional 10w30 15-40 20-50
Synthetic blend 15-40
Semi Synthetic 10-30 10-40
Engine flush
Rislone engine conditioner
 
I would use the 10w40. It is definitely going to have some grp III in it and it should hold up well to a longer OCI. Good thing it wasn't in stop and go traffic. Try to use a major brand with the cheapest price.
 
Ive seen cars with these sort of service numbers plenty of times before and it's not the end of the world if its a 1 off. Just don't try and clean it out with engine flush et al, change the oil as usual and stick to an appropriate OCI. These engines are spec for any of the oils you suggested. I would use a 10w30 or one of the 40s as they are usually cheaper. 20w50 as a last resort. A HDEO is a good idea if she is likely to let the OCI go too long again.
 
15w-40 HDEO. Can you get her back after a short run and another change after 5,000 km or so?

Just remember, if the car dies right after the oil change, it will be your fault.
 
I'd dump in the semi syn 10-30 (I'd try and find a 5 or 0 though as for those who fully understand how oil viscositys work kno 10 or 5-30 really only exists for those who don't understand 0w30 thins the least when engine cools down 0w30 is better in every way except price, if they're all the same at operating temp, but one of the three gets moving and lubricating quicker, why would you want one of the other 2?) If you would like to flush it out, diesel fuel is very very good at removing sludge and anything else that doesn't belong, grandfather did it frequently, drain and fill pan to level with diesel (yes diesel is a very light oil and will not cause any wear) start it and let it idle for about 5-7 minutes, then drain, I feel it important to mention not to let it run longer than a few minutes and starting with the engine cold. We don't to run the diesel long enough to let it get too hot. I would stay away from the thicker oils all they do is make your pump work harder and starve moving parts at higher rpm' s because it can't flow as much as a lighter oil, the greater amount of oil flow will assist in cleaning. Always remember, if you feel you should put an additive in your oil, then you need to buy better oil, if an additive you can buy at Wal-Mart made a big brand oil better, don't you think they would have added it before bottling the oil? Just to let you know, no Wal-Mart is a certified or licensed auto repair shop, they only do preventive maintenance, which doesn't require any licenses, and don't need one until they want to do actual automotive repairs. Something to remember next time you want to bring your car to Wal-Mart, only offering preventive maintenance without a license also means they don't have to follow any regulations or laws related to automotive repairs, meaning when they ruin your motor by forgetting filter changes over a long term, they can't be held responsible because the law will simply ask why you didn't take it to a certified repair shop to have work done. Matter in fact it's this aspect of the law why wal Mart isn't and does not want to get certified, it makes them liable for any damaged vehicles.
-srv
 
Is there sludge in there?

What's the oil level?
If at "F"...
1. Did the engine ever get "topped off" since the last oil change?
If lower than "F"....
2. Is there an oil leak?

3. How many total miles/km on the car?

If oil level is fine...then I'd pull the plugs and inspect them, pull the valve cover and look at the top of the engine, and replace plugs, replace the valve cover gasket, and replace the PCV valve/hose and THEN...

If the engine is NOT sludged up I'd go with the latest/modern version of the recommended oil (check with Toyota)....

If there is varnishing/deposits build-up/minor sludge, then a high detergent oil and two or three 5000km OCIs would be a good thing...if there's a lot of sludge then a professional clean-up should be considered.
 
Last edited:
Where does the idea of 40 and 50 weight oils come from? You should be using 5w30 or 10w30 in this engine all day long.
 
Originally Posted By: ChemicallyChargd
I'd dump in the semi syn 10-30 (I'd try and find a 5 or 0 though as for those who fully understand how oil viscositys work kno 10 or 5-30 really only exists for those who don't understand 0w30 thins the least when engine cools down 0w30 is better in every way except price, if they're all the same at operating temp, but one of the three gets moving and lubricating quicker, why would you want one of the other 2?) If you would like to flush it out, diesel fuel is very very good at removing sludge and anything else that doesn't belong, grandfather did it frequently, drain and fill pan to level with diesel (yes diesel is a very light oil and will not cause any wear) start it and let it idle for about 5-7 minutes, then drain, I feel it important to mention not to let it run longer than a few minutes and starting with the engine cold. We don't to run the diesel long enough to let it get too hot. I would stay away from the thicker oils all they do is make your pump work harder and starve moving parts at higher rpm' s because it can't flow as much as a lighter oil, the greater amount of oil flow will assist in cleaning. Always remember, if you feel you should put an additive in your oil, then you need to buy better oil, if an additive you can buy at Wal-Mart made a big brand oil better, don't you think they would have added it before bottling the oil? Just to let you know, no Wal-Mart is a certified or licensed auto repair shop, they only do preventive maintenance, which doesn't require any licenses, and don't need one until they want to do actual automotive repairs. Something to remember next time you want to bring your car to Wal-Mart, only offering preventive maintenance without a license also means they don't have to follow any regulations or laws related to automotive repairs, meaning when they ruin your motor by forgetting filter changes over a long term, they can't be held responsible because the law will simply ask why you didn't take it to a certified repair shop to have work done. Matter in fact it's this aspect of the law why wal Mart isn't and does not want to get certified, it makes them liable for any damaged vehicles.
-srv


1. Filling crankcase with diesel because grandpa did so makes no sense, and is a horrible idea in and of itself. Diesel will not adequately protect an engine when used as oil..

2. Your Corolla does not need a Cherry Bomb.

3. Also ignorant is the assertion that 0w30 "thins the least" when the engine cools down. Actually, it "thins the most" when compared to other weights. The state shows profound misunderstanding of the "thin oil, thicker oil" ongoing discussion. One thing is certain - using 0w30 is not part of any logical solution to the OP's poster.

4. "The law will ask you why you didn't take it to a certified repair shop." Ha ha ha.

5. Contraction for "you are" is "you're." If you want to make "viscosity" plural, try "viscosities."
 
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Where does the idea of 40 and 50 weight oils come from? You should be using 5w30 or 10w30 in this engine all day long.

Check his location.
 
15w40 HDEO, without a doubt.

10w40, 20w50 etc, are likely to share similar PCMO add packs and 10w40 would most likely rely on VII to create a 'pseudo-40', which would serve no purpose, especially with another 3 years of oxidative thickening expected.

The 15w40 would likely be built with higher viscosity basestocks and exhibit more shear stability as a result. It would also likely have an HDEO add pack with more pH buffer (TBN) than any of the other oil choices, with the exception of a LL synthetic PCMOs, if they were a choice.

3 years could leave a prette bad mess, so if you can do a flush of some type, perhaps one where you can drive around for a while, that would be recommended. The 5S-FE already wreaks oxidation havoc on a lube.
 
I will 4th or 5th whatever it is the 15w40 HDEO idea, and no additives (although I like additives) just a much shorter OCI this time.
 
She may be about to learn an expensive lesson soon....

+1 on the several short intervals approach with quality oil.
 
Originally Posted By: ChemicallyChargd
I'd dump in the semi syn 10-30 (I'd try and find a 5 or 0 though as for those who fully understand how oil viscositys work kno 10 or 5-30 really only exists for those who don't understand 0w30 thins the least when engine cools down 0w30 is better in every way except price, if they're all the same at operating temp, but one of the three gets moving and lubricating quicker, why would you want one of the other 2?) If you would like to flush it out, diesel fuel is very very good at removing sludge and anything else that doesn't belong, grandfather did it frequently, drain and fill pan to level with diesel (yes diesel is a very light oil and will not cause any wear) start it and let it idle for about 5-7 minutes, then drain, I feel it important to mention not to let it run longer than a few minutes and starting with the engine cold. We don't to run the diesel long enough to let it get too hot. I would stay away from the thicker oils all they do is make your pump work harder and starve moving parts at higher rpm' s because it can't flow as much as a lighter oil, the greater amount of oil flow will assist in cleaning. Always remember, if you feel you should put an additive in your oil, then you need to buy better oil, if an additive you can buy at Wal-Mart made a big brand oil better, don't you think they would have added it before bottling the oil? Just to let you know, no Wal-Mart is a certified or licensed auto repair shop, they only do preventive maintenance, which doesn't require any licenses, and don't need one until they want to do actual automotive repairs. Something to remember next time you want to bring your car to Wal-Mart, only offering preventive maintenance without a license also means they don't have to follow any regulations or laws related to automotive repairs, meaning when they ruin your motor by forgetting filter changes over a long term, they can't be held responsible because the law will simply ask why you didn't take it to a certified repair shop to have work done. Matter in fact it's this aspect of the law why wal Mart isn't and does not want to get certified, it makes them liable for any damaged vehicles.
-srv


I do not think your explanation about Walmart not being responsible if they mess up an oil change and it ruins your vehicle is correct. Or maybe only in Texas. I NY places without out a repair license can do fluid changes, wipers, belts, bulbs, but not say fix your brakes. Not having a license is not an issue if you took them to court.
 
All must come to realize you dont get wide multigrades (in mineral oil) without major compromise from the significant VII %. If you ran ILSAC PCMO in a big overland rig for long it would exlode that HD turbodiesel it's so compromised.
 
If it were me I would be frank with her, explain the possible/probable consequences, and not do the oil change. In her mind it will be your fault if it seizes or throws a rod since you will have been the last to work on it. I would ask her to get it changed at a quickie lube, then afterwards if she is responsible enough to bring it to you with less than 5,000 Km, start doing her oil changes for her again.

I would use a cheap multi-grade in it like you did last time. I have seen HDEO (Delvac 1300 Super) loosen up enough sludge in a neglected engine (KA24DE; 20,000+ Km OCI on 20w-50 SL) to plug the pick-up screen.
 
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