OIL Valv VR1 20w-50
MILES IN USE 309
MILES ON UNIT 309
SAMPLE TAKEN 5/25/25
MAKE UP OIL 0
ALUMINUM 19
CHROMIUM 1
IRON 26
COPPER 67
LEAD 70
TIN 9
MOLYBDENUM 53
NICKEL 1
MANGANESE 2
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 2
POTASSIUM 2
BORON 144
SILICON 73
SODIUM 8
CALCIUM 1125
MAGNESIUM 787
PHOSPHORUS 995
ZINC 1152
BARIUM 3
SUS @ 210 78.6
cSt @ 100 15.17
FLASHPOINT 430
FUEL <0.5
WATER % 0.0
INSOLUBLES % 0.2
How hot does the oil get?Ran maybe the first 5h on Driven BR30, then this fill of VR1 has handled the rest. Oil was replaced with the same VR-1, planning to run that until roughly 1K miles before switching to a semi or full synthetic line.
View attachment 286993
That is one of the many I've looked at to determine what the long-term go forward oil will be.It's a new engine so metals will be high. Have you considered m1 15w-50. It's a pretty great oil and walmart carries it on shelves for $25.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...erId=0&wmlspartner=wlpa&gStoreCode=5091&gQT=2
This one had several pulls on the dyno. Mostly this will be a weekend cruiser in DFW, but I do hope to have a couple visits to the track annually.How hot does the oil get?
This is a rebuilt motor, 6.2L aluminum block with upgraded pistons, rods, and factory crank. LS6 top end with ported 799 cylinder heads. Bearing tolerance seems loose compared to the data I have from the engine builder. Oil pressure is good and constant, but once you've run it for maybe an hour the oil pressure is lower than I would like.Is that a new or rebuilt engine? That is some high Pb but I get it that it's breaking in. Did you drive it hard during this time?
A 20w-50 is good as it gets but you'll know more in future samples. Sounds like a ripper.This is a rebuilt motor, 6.2L aluminum block with upgraded pistons, rods, and factory crank. LS6 top end with ported 799 cylinder heads. Bearing tolerance seems loose compared to the data I have from the engine builder. Oil pressure is good and constant, but once you've run it for maybe an hour the oil pressure is lower than I would like.
Even on a brand new engine, with a second change, the copper and lead is on the high end. You mentioned oil pressure being lower than you like. What's the pressure? What's the rod and main bearing clearance spec'd by the builder?
It could be nothing, but I'd watch it cautiously.
The KV100 is out of grade. I'm finding that unlikely given the low miles and no dilution. Have them rerun the KV100. Next time, use a different lab. Blackstone is notorious for underreporting values, especially the KV100.
The synthetic version of VR1 is a much better oil than the conventional version and not just in the base oil. The conventional version is essentially just white bottle Valvoline with some extra ZDDP where as the synthetic version has a better VII polymer and multiple synergistic friction modifiers on top of the extra ZDDP and better base oil.
Again typically the oil pressure is great. After an hour of running around town yesterday in 95+ temps the idle pressure at 1,000rpm was about 15psi (within GM's 10psi per 1K rpm, but again lower than what I'd like). At cold idle, warm idle, and even after 30m of idle the readings are much better.
Regarding the bearing clearance, this is what is stated, but doesn't seem to match with what the oil pressure gauge and oil analysis are telling me...
View attachment 287180
Yes, this one has a high volume Melling oil pump. Oil pan is the normal LS1.I guess tri-metal bearings were used on the build? Your garden variety LS/LT has bi-metal (aluminum) bearings. Don't know what else that would explain the copper and lead other than the use of tri-metal bearings.
Was a high volume oil pump used? Sufficient provisions for windage in the pan?